VINTAGE LUNDIN LINKS AND LARGO
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Hillhead Grocer Shop - Part 2

28/3/2025

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The previous post looked at the early years of the former grocer shop at the foot of Hillhead Street, pictured above. The first owner, for whom the premises were built in 1880, was Thomas Forgan. He sold the business in 1891 to grocer Thomas Blyth, who continued the business into the period when the old village of Lundin Mill was expanding into the fashionable Lundin Links, frequented by city dwellers seeking sea air and golf. Against that backdrop of change, the story of the grocer shop became more complicated for a time.

The report below from the 1 July 1897 Leven Advertiser encapsulates what was happening to the village at the time. The long-standing vision to develop Lundin Links, which dated back to the arrival of the railway in 1857, was finally being realised. New villas were being erected and the beginnings of new facilities to support them were in evidence. In contrast to the weavers cottages of Lundin Mill, these homes had "an air of wealth and refinement" and featured "the latest improvements and conveniences". The enterprise was attracting "ready purchasers and inhabitants".

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One of those purchasers was Richard Wedderspoon - a commercial traveller in the wine and spirit trade, employee of John Somerville and Company, wine and spirit merchants of Leith. He purchased St Margaret's on Victoria Road (named after his wife and young daughter). Although he owned the property, he and his family were listed as summer visitors to Lundin Links during the summer season, to advertise the fact that they were in residence. An example of this can be seen below from the 20 July 1899 Leven Advertiser.  
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Around 1898, Wedderspoon became a partner at Sacell Brewery in Paisley and, around the same time, purchased the Hillhead licensed grocer shop, along with several other properties on Hillhead Street, from Thomas Blyth. Presumably, the shop could be an outlet for the products of his employer. On the 1899 Largo Parish Valuation Roll, Wedderspoon owned eleven properties across Lundin Links and Lundin Mill. A man named Arthur Booth was brought in as tenant to run the licensed grocer.  The 23 December 1898 East of Fife Record piece below confirmed the transfer of the license from Blyth to Booth. 
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Booth's name appeared above the grocer shop door and, in fact, close inspection of the shop lintel in recent years reveals the ghostly outline of the name A Booth and the word Licensed in small letters underneath (see photographs below).

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A few months after the license was transferred to Booth, the 26 May 1899 East of Fife Record above reported that Wedderspoon had sold the business to Mr Booth. However, subsequent events suggest that this was not true. The article below from the 21 April 1900 St Andrews Citizen tells us that the previous year it had been reported that Booth "had bought the business" but now it had become clear that "the business he got the license for was not his at all" but belonged to Wedderspoon "who has become bankrupt". Furthermore, the firm that Wedderspoon was connected with was a creditor of Booth's. The sequence of events was described as "little short of a scandal".

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The exposure of the truth brought an end to the involvement of both Wedderspoon and Booth in the business of the Lundin Mill grocer shop. Perhaps as part of the bankruptcy process, the shop and all the other properties that Wedderspoon had owned came into the ownership Wedderspoon's former employer John Somerville and Son of Leith. The firm brought in a new grocer named Matthew Barrie with previous experience in East Lothian and Berwick-Upon-Tweed as tenant to run the shop (as recorded in the 1900 Largo Parish Valuation Roll above).

Barrie came forward to the District Licensing Court in April 1900 but was initially refused a license due to the unsatisfactory way in which the enterprise had been run prior to his appointment. 
Meanwhile, by 1901 census, Richard Wedderspoon had relocated to London and was acting as a commercial traveller selling Scotch Whisky. He later emigrated to New Zealand, where he lived out the remainder of his life.

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Barrie appealed the license refusal, and the following month, the shop's license was returned. The 4 May 1900 East of Fife Record reported that the premises had been licensed for along time, that Barrie was unconnected to the previous owner and tenant, and that nearly 200 persons had signed a petition in favour of the license. The affairs of the grocer shop were finally back on an even keel.
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Matthew Barrie had moved to Lundin Links with his wife Maggie and two infant children, William and Dolina. Another daughter, Phyllis, was born there in 1902. After the early hiccup with the license, Barrie ran a successful business. As the adverts above and below show, he positioned himself as a wine and provision merchant and 'Italian Warehouseman' (a fashionable term used at the time for high-class grocery provision). Whisky was given special mention in his adverts.
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Matthew Barrie moved on in 1905, heading back south to Melrose, where he and son William had a grocer shop on the High Street for many years. William Barrie served in the First World War, operating one of the first tanks to see action in 1916 at the Battle of the Somme, following special secret training. He was wounded several times during his service but eventually returned to Melrose and took over his father's grocery business. Below is a view of the Hillhead Street shop from the rear from around the time of the Barrie family. The red arrow on the left points to the shop sign on the gable end, while the other arrow indicates its proximity to the Crusoe Hall (or Temperance Hall), which was a well-used facility at the time.  In the next post, a final part in the story of the shop.

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Hillhead Grocer Shop - Part 1

21/3/2025

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The former grocer shop at the foot of Hillhead Street was situated in what was once the heart of old Lundin Mill - equidistant from Largo Road to the north and Emsdorf Street to the south. It was constructed in 1880 for weaver-turned-grocer Thomas Forgan. Born in Largo in 1821, Forgan found employment as a hand loom weaver, like many in the village at the time. By 1861 Thomas had became a linen weaving agent - someone through whom weaving work came into the area. He must have been successful in the role, as by the 1871 census, Thomas was recorded as "employing 30 men and 20 women" in the linen trade.

However, times were changing and the old hand loom weaving industry was on the wane. Power looms were increasingly being used in larger towns like Kirkcaldy and Dunfermline. The hand looms that were once found in most village homes (including many on Hillhead Street) were dwindling. The 17 September 1874 Fife Herald speaks of a brisk level of business for the remaining weavers in Lundin Mill, yet at low wages.  It states: "Supplied by webs here as we are through agents, work at the hand-loom trade is rife, but weavers have dwindled down in numbers greatly of late, and the "sough o' the shuttle" is now rarely heard. Wide sheetings are being woven by old hands, but wages are low." 

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On 23 February 1877, the Courier stated that "handloom weaving is at present less active here than it was some time ago, and some kinds of webs are scarce, while wages are miserably low." This shift in the linen trade explains why Thomas Forgan was driven to reinvent himself as a grocer. 
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The extract from 1878 Slater's Directory above shows that Thomas Forgan was a grocer prior to the construction of the 1880 shop. It also tells us that there were two other grocers in Lundin Mill at the time - Margaret Bremner (who would go on to run Lundin Links Post Office) and John Kennock. Forgan presumably out-grew his original premises and was in a position to build a new purpose-built shop, incorporating living quarters. The short note below from the 29 May 1880 Fife News announced the construction of "a very handsome building" which would "adorn the village". 

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The new premises became licensed in 1885 and ironically the following year saw the opening of the Good Templar Hall (or Temperance Hall) just across the road. In the 1891 census, Forgan noted as a licensed grocer. However, later that same year, Thomas Forgan retired and the grocery business was taken over by Thomas Blyth. Thomas Forgan died on 11 November 1894 aged 73. His headstone can be seen in Upper Largo cemetery (shown below).

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​Successor to the business, Thomas Wilkie Blyth, was born in Perthshire in 1865 and was an apprentice grocer by age 16 in Kettle, Fife. In 1889, he married Mary Taylor Lindsay and the 1891 census finds him working as a grocer in Auchtermuchty. Later that year they moved to Lundin Mill to take over Forgan's enterprise. During the Blyths years in Lundin Mill they raised their young family -  daughters, Agnes (born 1892) and Marjory (1896) and a son named Thomas, who sadly died of scarletina in 1893. 

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The above advertisement for Thomas Blyth's Family Grocer dates to 1897. It highlights quality products such as "finest blends of whisky" and "choicest Danish butter" - perhaps to appeal as much to summer visitors as to locals. The following year, Blyth decided to change career path and left the district.

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The sketch above of Thomas Blyth appeared in the 8 May 1899 Dundee Courier when he was given a complimentary dinner to mark his removal from the area. Relocating to Kirkcaldy, he became a commercial traveller for the firm of Messrs William Yule and Son, wholesale and retail merchants, and went on to work for them for almost forty years. Thomas Blyth died 19 November 1944 aged 79 years and is buried at Largo Cemetery alongside his wife and infant son (their headstone is shown below). The article below from 25 November 1944 Fife Free Press describes him as "well known in the provision trade"). The next post will pick up the next chapter in the story of the Lundin Mill grocer business from 1898. 
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Newburn Parish Church Artefacts

14/3/2025

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An earlier post looked at the unification of Newburn Parish Church and Largo Parish Church. The two churches united in 1958, with the Newburn Church closing completely in January 1961. Before the church building at Newburn was converted into a private dwelling, a number of important artefacts were moved from there to Largo Parish Church at Upper Largo. One of the first things to be relocated was the Newburn Parish 1914-18 War Memorial Plaque, pictured above. In the images below, captured in 1963, the empty wall space and exposed brickwork indicates the place where this was once mounted on the church wall. This plaque is still proudly displayed within the church at Upper Largo.

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The Newburn communion silver (which included two cups dated 1772) was of course retained for use by the unified church. One of the cups can be seen in detail above (as featured in the book 'Largo Kirk' by Douglas Lister and James Gillies (1968)). A wider range of the Newburn communion silver can be seen in situ at Newburn Parish Church in the photograph below (from the book 'The Architecture of Scottish Post-Reformation Churches 1560-1843' by George Hay (1957)).
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The largest item relocated from Newburn to Largo was the panelled pulpit and canopy  (seen above in another image from the book 'The Architecture of Scottish Post-Reformation Churches 1560-1843' by George Hay (1957)). This was removed and relocated to Largo Parish Church ahead of the conversation of Newburn Church into a private dwelling. Below is a composite image showing the pulpit both in its original location at Newburn (left, from the Canmore collection) and in its home of the last sixty years, Largo Kirk (right). 
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​In fact, the installation of the Newburn pulpit at Largo was part of a wider programme of renovations at the time. This saw the communion table relocated from the east wall of the chancel to the axis of the cross, and the re-siting of the organ. The 29 September 1965 Leven Mail reported on the works and the extract below highlights the introduction of the Newburn pulpit and font. 

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On Sunday 26 September 1965 a special service took place to rededicate Largo and Newburn Parish Church, including the dedication of the new church furnishings. The notice below appeared in the Leven Mail two weeks beforehand. If you remember this service or have any memories of Newburn Parish Church before its closure, please get in touch or leave a comment.

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Kirk House

7/3/2025

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The previous post looked at Newburn Parish Church, which was in active use from 1815 until January 1961. The church then closed and remained empty for a few years. In 1964, the Church of Scotland decided to sell the building and the advert below appeared in the 1 April 1964 Leven Mail. Viewings were arranged through the minister of the church at Upper Largo, Reverend James S. Paterson.

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The purchaser, some months later, was Leven architect L.A. Rolland, with the intention to convert the rural church into a dwelling house. One huge attraction of the property is its elevated position and extensive views, which were described as "across eight counties" on a clear day. 
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The update above appeared in the 1 June 1965 Scotsman newspaper. The "elegant pulpit" mentioned in the piece can be seen in the floor plan below at the lower centre of the main rectangular space. The pulpit was moved to Largo and Newburn Parish Church in 1965 and is still in use today. The diagram below (from the book The Architecture of Scottish Post-Reformation Churches 1560-1843 by George Hay (1957)) also shows the four pillars which held up the upper gallery. The lower level pew layout is shown including the central five box pews which could be converted into a space for a long communion table. The session house projected to the south and the small tower is shown to the east.
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As the architect firm of L.A. Rolland and Partners of Leven embarked upon the project, the key challenge was to insert an intermediate floor without spoiling the external appearance of the building from the south (as seen in the photograph at the top of this post). The two tall arched south-facing windows once flanked the pulpit. In the end the intermediate floor was set back from the glass and the two south-facing doors were glazed to internal floor level. The main entrance became through the base of the tower, which acted as a vestibule.
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At the north facing ground level, the former session room became a morning room (seen in the background of the photograph above, with steps leading up into a reception room). An original stone gallery staircase provided access to the first floor. The original pillars and some of the wood panelling were reused. The image below shows the dining room with steps to the left leading up to the former upper gallery of the church. The completed conversion comprised four bedrooms (one en-suite), dining room, morning room, drawing room, kitchen and offices. The completed house, named Kirk House, was sold in 1970 for £15,000.

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The picture below, (from the Canmore Collection - http://canmore.org.uk/collection/1636717) shows the building from the north, where some reconfiguration of windows was carried out. In fact the category B listing for the building states that "North elevation symmetry lost by insertion of 1 door and window".  
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The top image and both internal photographs featured in the booklet 'New Life for Old Churches', published in 1977 by HMSO. In fact a sketch of Kirk House by Roy Worskett was used as the cover drawing for this booklet (below). 
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