VINTAGE LUNDIN LINKS AND LARGO
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Atmospheric Harbour Scene

11/12/2020

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The above photograph is part of Historic Environment Scotland's Canmore collection but was originally part of a private collection. It's dated as circa 1890, which tallies with what we can see in the image. Firstly, the image was certainly captured after 1888, as the stone-built "W.C. for the benefit of sailors and fishers" can be seen on the right hand edge below the lamp.  Another clue to the date is the registration 'KY 478' on the sail of the fishing boat on the right. This vessel was sold to Messrs G.R. and W. Jamieson of Shetland in 1901 (see 18 May Shetland Times below) so the image was taken prior to that date.

In the background, under the right hand arch of the viaduct is the old wooden footbridge over the Keil Burn. Different versions of this footbridge existed up until 1914. The photographer has clearly waited for a train to pass over the viaduct before committing to the picture. The engine is a pleasingly old-looking one - reminiscent of a toy train to modern eyes. There a lot of people in the scene, including a group of men taking a rest on the right, a young girl heading for the end of the pier and several men (and possibly boys) congregating around one of the fishing boats. It's not too hard to imagine the smells and sounds that would have accompanied this sight. It's another image that I would love to be able to step right in to!

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Largo Harbour from Railway Bridge

5/7/2020

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The postcard scene above, from the Valentine's series, has much going on within it worth comment. It can be dated to between 1911 (when the flat roof was created on the seaward end of the Crusoe Hotel) and 1914 (when the postcard was sent). A huge Union Jack flag can be seen flying from the hotel's flag pole. The tide is fairly high and there are fifteen boats within shot - a mixture of working vessels and pleasure craft. A couple of rowing boats appear to be setting off via the channel between the pier and the Lundies (the rocks to the right of the pier). 

Below we can see a woman in what is probably the uniform of a domestic servant or nanny - black dress, white apron and white lacy cap. Whether she is in charge of the boy to the right is unclear. The road surface is rough and uneven, and the obstacles in the shape of mooring posts, ropes and baskets are many. Cart wheel tracks can just about be made out rounding the corner past the Railway Inn onto Main Street.
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​The other area of zoomed in detail below shows the structure and surface of the pier in good detail. There are several mooring posts and some evidence of fishing gear. People including a boy plus a dog are enjoying watching the hubbub of the harbour. Also notable are the long wooden poles and laddered 'A' frame structures piled up against the harbour W.C. wall. Perhaps someone can comment on how these would have been used?  

All in all, I love this atmospheric scene and only wish I could step back in time and walk through it - taking in the sights, sounds and smells!

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East End of The Temple - Then and Now

20/3/2020

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The above pair of images show the east end of The Temple circa 1900 (above) and 2019 (below). The scene is largely unchanged - bar the alterations to a number of the buildings and the lack of boats at this end of the beach these days. However, evidence does remain to this day of the use of the sandy gap between the rocks by fishermen. Below is a close up of an old mooring ring (in foreground).
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Maps of this area show the narrow but useful gap between rock strata in line with the end of The Temple - showing why boats were once a common feature here. 
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​The houses in the centre above, with the red roofs can be dated to 1857. The building named 'Seabrae' has the inscription shown below. 

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Hotel and Granary Paintings

24/11/2019

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This interesting series of paintings of Largo Harbour, signed by David Martin, feature the Crusoe Hotel (and adjacent granary) looking quite different. The landward side of the building is a storey lower than in later times and has a simple and functional appearance. When first built in 1824 the granary building consisted of only two storeys (see advert below from the Fife Herald of 7 October that year). The seaward (inn) end of the building was likely built around the same time - which was also around the time to the establishment of the steam packet services.

Featuring typical granary architecture, with small rectangular windows and a cart opening at ground level, the interior of this part of the building would have been similar to the image below of Dunbar's granary and store. It's easy to imagine the low beamed rooms with their stone walls filled with sacks of grain and other agricultural produce. 
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By the mid-1850s, the focus was on the imminent arrival of the railway. In December 1855, the shareholders and tenants of the Largo Granary Company had a dinner in Selkirk's Hotel (i.e. the Crusoe Hotel - the proprietor at the time was named Alexander Selkirk). The principal tenant of the granary then was Robert Hutchison of Kirkcaldy. [In 1830, at the age of 21, Robert Hutchison opened an account in the name of Robert Hutchison and Company and began trading in wheat, barley oats, flax, butter and flour. By 1856 the company would own all the land in East Kirkcaldy where the present flour mill now stands.] The success of the East of Fife Railway was toasted at the event and those that had not already subscribed to the scheme were encouraged to do so.

The arrival of the railway and the increasing popularity of Largo as a visitor destination saw the area prosper and at some point the granary acquired a third storey - a 'loft' added to the existing 'granary' and 'cellar and stables' . It is unclear what point in time the paintings above represent but certainly the landward end of the building had acquired a third storey by the early 1870s.

The photograph below dates to 1885 and the day of the unveiling of the Crusoe Statue. The outline of the old lower gable end can be made out in the weathered gable wall on the right hand side of the image. Standing on the far right is Sam Gillies, skipper of 'The Brothers' which was lost only a few months after this photo was taken. The Largo Granary Company seems to have wound up around the turn of the century and by 1905 hotel keeper Thomas Lumsden owned the entire building - although part of the old granary building had an interesting use at that time.....more of that to follow.
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Watercolour at Largo

10/7/2019

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With 10 days to go until Largo Arts Week, here is a rather nice piece of art dating back around 75 years. Featuring boats tied up at Largo Harbour, the old salt girnel (later net house) can be seen in the background to the right, with fishing nets hanging up to dry alongside it. The drying nets and net house also featured in the older painting featured in a post last November (shown below). 

Coming back to the watercolour above - this was painted by James MacLaren. According to various on-line sources, MacLaren was "an accomplished oil painter and watercolourist" based in Glasgow, who exhibited mainly between 1881 and 1917, including 17 works at the RSA. He produced many harbour scenes and serene landscapes and showed "a sincere understanding of light and composition". 

A note on the back of the painting states that a former owner "watched the artist painting this". If the early 1940s date is correct then this painting would have been painted late in the life of the artist. Perhaps it was painted a little earlier. Largo has of course long inspired artists and the upcoming Arts Week shows that it continues to do so. If you have the chance to visit between 20th and 28th  July, why not go along and discover the talented local artists of today?

www.largoartsweek.com


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1857 Lundin Links Engraving

6/4/2019

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The above engraving by Frederick Borders featured in the 1860 book "The Handy Book of the Fife Coast" by Henry Farnie. The same book had a full page advert for the the 'marine villas' that were being built in the village as part of the ambitious plans set out by the Standard Life Assurance Company at that time. At first glance the engraving is not particularly recognisable as Lundin Links. However, zooming in on the centre detail (below) reveals 'Fir Park' standing proud in front of Largo Law, plus a scattering of houses. Colour has been added below to highlight these features, which are tricky to make out in the original.

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Further to the left of the engraving is a representation of the newly-created railway station and a passing train - see below. The shack-like temporary station building that briefly existed between 1857 and 1858 before it was replaced with the permanent station building can be made out. As the book 'The Leven and East of Fife Railway' by Hajducki, Jodeluk and Simpson states:

"Provision was made for the situation where, if after five years from opening, the traffic generated was not sufficiently remunerative for the railway company, then the obligation to keep the station open was no longer binding on them. Lundin Links station was opened along with the rest of the line in August 1857 with a temporary building but in September 1858 an agreement was reached between the East of Fife company and Standard Life that the station was to be completed as a permanent structure. Standard Life contributed £450 out of a total of £800 for the station and its approach road and would also undertake to construct four villas by the station."

The villas named 'Homelands' and 'Haworth' were duly built but, aside from several other homes built on Crescent Road, further development was slow. The permanent station building had a distinctive design - quite unlike others in the vicinity. It seems likely that James Campbell Walker had a hand in its design, which had echoes of 'Homelands'. The opening announcement and the original timetable are shown below (from 13 August 1857 Caledonian Mercury).

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Frederick Borders the engraver behind these images was born in London around 1827. By 1851 he was employed as an engraver is Islington but by the time of the 1861 census he was in Edinburgh working as a wood engraver. He had probably completed the Lundin Links engraving 3-4 years prior to that. He was still in Edinburgh in 1871 and the next year married Helen Wight in Edinburgh before relocating to London. Their first child Frederick was born soon afterwards, followed by Samuel, Helen and Alice. The 1881 census finds Frederick senior in Wandsworth Prison as a 'debtor' but ten years later he is back working as a 'draughtsman and engraver on wood' in Southwark (the place where he died in 1894).
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The Brothers

18/9/2018

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Just three months after the unveiling of the Robinson Crusoe statue in Lower Largo, the village experienced one of its darkest events when seven local men lost their lives while fishing. The men were the crew of the "Brothers" fishing boat (registration KY. 39), skippered by Samuel Gillies, pictured above. They had set off on 29th March 1886 - along with six other deep sea fishing boats - and had been due to return on 31st. However, on 30th March, about 50 miles east of May Isle, they were caught in a squall. One of the earliest newspaper reports on the incident (2 April Aberdeen Evening Express below) reports the boat as missing.
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Over the days that followed, many newspapers picked up on the story, speaking of growing fears for the crew. By 6th April, the Dundee Evening Telegraph reported that "all hope is now abandoned of the safety of the fishing boat Brothers". The piece continues...

"The master of the boat Jane and Minnie reports being close to the Brothers at one o'clock on Tuesday afternoon, 50 miles east of the May Island, and that she was then engaged shooting her lines; but shortly after a blinding shower hid her from view, and she was not seen again....She had a splendid crew, and had weathered many a storm. It is the general opinion that she had been swamped by a heavy sea while her hatches were off, as they would necessarily be while the crew were hauling their lines. The calamity has cast a gloom over the place, and has made a large blank in the village, and there is hardly a family but is connected with the lost ones by some degree of relationship. Samuel Gillies, the master, was a man of amiable disposition, and had all the pluck and daring essential to his calling. He was a model skipper and much liked by all who knew him."

The Brothers was built around 1882 and was 47 feet in length. In the same year, the Ocean Bride (registration KY. 4) was built for William and Robert Gillies. Ocean Bride is pictured in the centre of the Largo harbour scene below, captured around 1885 by photographer Erskine Beveridge. It seems likely that the Brothers would have been a similar looking vessel.
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The men who perished on 30th March 1886 were:

Samuel Gillies, aged 45, husband of Agnes Kirk, with whom he had four children*
John Gillies aged 23, unmarried, son of Samuel
Alexander Gillies, aged 21, unmarried, also son of Samuel
David Wishart, aged 47, husband of Ann Ballingall, with whom he had ten children (some grown up)
David Wishart, aged 22, son of David senior and husband of Margaret Smith with whom he had three children
James Wishart, aged 22, also son of David senior, and husband of Janet Dowie, with whom he had 5-month-old twins
John Johnston, aged 22, unmarried, son of Andrew Johnston and Margaret Sharp


* Samuel had previously been married to Agnes Simpson with who he had seven children before her death in 1875
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As the Dundee Evening Telegraph remarked, "No accident of so serious a nature has ever occurred to any boat belonging to Largo". Apparently, 27 years earlier, a yawl was lost and three of a crew of four were drowned. A subscription list opened by Rev. David Malloch raised £500 locally to support the bereaved families. Once this had been almost exhausted, additional funds were secured from the Royal Relief Fund (see below from 25 August 1886 Fife Herald). For the families of the seven men, life had to go on and today the many descendants of the lost crew still think about this tragedy of 132 years ago and how deeply it affected those left behind.
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    This blog is about the history of the villages of Lundin Links, Lower Largo and Upper Largo in Fife, Scotland. Comments and contributions from readers are very welcome!

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