Hopefully many of you managed to watch 'Scotland's Scenic Railways' on Channel 4 the other evening, featuring Largo and Lundin Links stations, vintage railway footage and present day local scenes. For anyone that missed it, the programme is currently on All 4 catch-up here.  One of the content contributors, who appeared on the programme, was Robert Drysdale. Robert has kindly written up detailed memories of his many childhood holidays to Lower Largo and Lundin Links and has included several photographs in the attached PDF document. Among the images are pictures of both Largo and Lundin Links stations after the railway line closed and the tracks had been lifted, plus a view from the former road bridge over the line at the top of Drummochy Road.  

To access this evocative description of holidaying in Largo in the 1950s and 1960s, please click here and enjoy! Above is a picture of Robert (right) with his baby sister and mother in the garden of 'Kincraig' (number 15 the Temple). Below is a view of the closed Largo station with the tracks recently lifted, taken from the footbridge over the line. These and many more images appear in the document.

Back in the nineteenth century (and likely before then too), one of the occupations carried out in Largo was cork cutting. Among the men who described themselves as 'cork cutters' over the years were John Ballingall, Edward Johnston, Henry Kirk, John Edmonson Miller, Thomas Rankin and James Rodger. In addition, there were several boys employed to assist in this line of work.

Henry Kirk was a cork cutter based on the upper part of Kirkton of Largo's North Feus, shown in the above postcard image. At the time of the 1861 census Henry Kirk employed '1 man and 1 boy' in his cork cutting business. He was listed in the 1862 Westwood Directory (above) under 'miscellaneous'. It's likely that the cork cutters' main output would have been stoppers for bottles and other containers, such as the stoneware containers shown in the advert below for Henry Kennedy and Sons of Glasgow.

This increase in production could well be linked to the opening of Cardy Net Works in 1867. Floats would have been required for the edges of the nets and cork was the material of choice for that at the time. In 1876, the Johnston family moved to a property on the south side of Upper Largo's Main Street. They named their home 'Norwich House' after Edward's home town. The house (later changed to 'Norwich Cottage') is shown in the centre of the map below.

Robert Gilchrist was born in Largo in 1840 - the youngest son of Elspeth Selkirk and James Gilchrist (a hand loom weaver at the Temple). His was one of several houses at the Temple at the time that included a 'weaver's shop' as part of the property. In 1859 Robert joined the 'Lundin Mill Total Abstinence Society'. This was a prelude to his long-term involvement in the Good Templar movement. Although he was away from home when the charter was signed for the institution of the Robinson Crusoe Lodge of the Independent Order of Good Templars in 1872, he joined a few weeks later.

Over many years, Robert filled all of the offices at the local lodge as well as many at East Fife District Lodge level. In 1879 he was elected to lead the latter - a role he carried out by travelling around the district on his pony trap. Eventually, he served on several committees of the Grand Lodge, rising to its Assistant Grand Secretary. The "Good Templar Guide: North-East Fife District 1898-1904" stated that "the bicycle was neither fast nor fashionable in those days but with his pony, to and fro throughout the district he went, instituting new, resuscitating dormant, and encouraging existing lodges".

On 11 March 1861 Robert Gilchrist (then a post messenger) married Jane White (daughter of mason Robert White, who was partner with Archibald White in a well-known local building firm). The couple settled in Lundin Mill and Robert himself soon joined the building trade. By the 1871 census the pair had three children - Catherine, Elspeth and James. A decade later, in 1881, Robert was an established builder and his son was his apprentice. The family were living in Emsdorf House and, on the day of the census, had a 'Scottish Coast Missionary' staying with them as a visitor (no doubt in connection with the Good Templars). 

Above is a piece from the 24 November 1883 Fifeshire Advertiser describing the celebration following completion of building work on a new farm steading at Pratis led by Robert Gilchrist. In 1885, Gilchrist was convener of the committee responsible for the events associated with the Crusoe Statue unveiling.  The following year, he completed the building of the Good Templar Hall (later known as the Crusoe Hall). Over the next three decades Robert continued in the building trade, still residing at Emsdorf House, playing a significant role in the development of Lundin Links, along with fellow builders such as Archibald White and Walter Horne. He was the builder of the Simpson Institute in Upper Largo, opened in 1891. His daughter Elspeth married painter Robert Blair Forrester in 1893. In 1894, Robert Gilchrist and Son were the builders of the striking Colinsburgh Town Hall. 

In 1911, Robert and Jane Gilchrist celebrated their ​Golden Wedding. Two of their children and seven grandchildren were present. Their daughter Catherine had died in 1889 aged 27. The 15 March 1911 Leven Advertiser gives an account of the event below, along with further details of Robert's life. He was chair of the Parish Council, an elder of the Parish Church, President of Largo Curling Club and active in the bowling and tennis clubs. However, he was best known for his tireless work in connection with the temperance movement. Robert Gilchrist died, aged 85, at Emsdorf House in 1926. His wife Jane had predeceased him in 1913.
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​The old walled garden of Largo House, which sits between the main mansion and the Largo Home Farm, is a 2.7 acre area that once contained formally laid out working gardens (see 1854 map above). The garden included an orchard, glasshouses, extensive fruit and vegetable beds, hedges and neat paths lined with herbaceous borders (see image below from Canmore collection, captured in 1901 by Lady Henrietta Gilmour Montrave).

A walled garden is a garden enclosed by high walls. While the walls provide protection from animals and intruders, they are primarily there for horticultural reasons. They protect the produce from wind and frost and can raise the temperature within the garden by a few degrees. The walls absorb and retain heat from the sun and release it slowly. South-facing high walls create their own microclimate and are suited for growing more tender plants that wouldn't survive in an unenclosed garden. Many estate mansion houses had their own walled garden, suppling fresh fruit and vegetables to the household and providing a pleasant place to walk and grow flowers. Many had glasshouses, some with artificial heat from stoves or similar, enabling exotic plants to be grown.

A series of highly-skilled gardeners cared for Largo House's walled garden over the decades, including Thomas Stewart, Thomas Blair, Colin McTaggart, Robert Smith and Peter Keay. These men regularly took part in horticultural competitions, winning prizes for their produce. Above is just one of many examples that can be found in the newspaper archives. This piece from the 5 September 1861 Dunfermline Press shows Colin McTaggart securing prizes at the Fifeshire Horticultural Society Exhibition in many categories. These included 'Stove or greenhouse plants, in pots', French marigolds, African marigolds, hand-bouquets, plums, greengages, Jargonelle pears, baking apples, gooseberries, cauliflowers, red cabbage and onions.  Such reports provide a useful insight to the varieties being grown and consumed at Largo House at the time.
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Over the years many day excursionists enjoyed a visit to the gardens, often guided by the gardener. For example in 1852, 180 workers from the Haugh spinning mill in Windygates were shown round the "blooming and richly adorned" gardens by the "very attentive" Thomas Blair (2 Sept Fife Herald). The steps which lead off the walled garden to the west (see postcard image above) are still there today (see below). The Largo Village Book of 1932 refers to this "long flight of steps" that leads up to the "old garden" close to Sir Andrew Wood's Tower. At the top of the steps "one walks round a broad grass walk, high above the other garden and the present house. The centre of this old garden slopes down to the middle on all sides".
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The main walled garden seems to have been in active use for a couple of centuries. The aerial photograph below (held by Historic Environment Scotland) shows it in the 1930s, when there are signs of planting and of an intact glasshouse. Further below is another image showing the walled garden from outside its north edge. A walled enclosure and further glasshouses seem to have been located here on the outside of the wall.
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Many historic walled gardens have been restored to their former use in recent times and, excitingly, there are plans to make the Largo House walled garden productive again and allow access for visitors and volunteers. The plan is to produce flowers, fruit and vegetables once again. For more information and updates see:

www.facebook.com/largoestatefife

To see a nearby comparable walled garden restoration project, which has been in progress for a number of years, see Amisfield Walled Garden in East Lothian. Also a late 18th century garden, this garden had been long neglected before work began in 2006 on its restoration. Progress since then has been impressive and it is now a thriving community garden. See image below and here for more details:

https://www.amisfield.org.uk/

The above photograph will bring back memories for many who remember the shop at the west part of what was Defoe Place (now 3 Main Street), Lower Largo. Thomas Potter had the shop prior to Max Jurecki and this picture shows him standing at its door. There are some great details in this image. Note the advertising signs at each end of the premises - promoting 'Golden Virginia' hand rolling tobacco on the left and 'Wall's' ice cream on the right. Above the door is 'Player's Cigarettes' sign and to the right of the door an advert for 'Ilford' film.

This building housed the village Post Office for many years prior to this time, with three generations of the Welsh family running it. It was still the Post Office at the time of the photo, as can be seen from the sign to the left of the door. This was the standard old sign displayed at all Post Offices. The same one hung on the wall of Miss Bremner's Post Office in Lundin Links and is shown in more detail below. The Lower Largo Post Office later moved along to 91 Main Street.
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Postcards were clearly a big seller at this shop with an elaborate outdoor display board showcasing 'Valentine's' postcards. You can almost work out which vintage postcards are on show from the detail below from the photograph. There is a selection of novelty postcards in the lower right corner of the display (Scottie dog, lucky heather, etc). Hundreds of visitors must have purchased and sent postcards from here.

The Daily Record newspaper headline board has the enticing headline "Meet the Beatles in Person!" (dating the image to after they rose to fame in late 1962). The shop also had a Public Telephone (see sign above the door). I wonder whether that facility pre-dated the telephone box at the Orry. Finally to the right of the picture is a wonderful vintage car with the registration OSP 4. Does anyone recognise it?  Please share any memories of this shop if you can by commenting. Changes to the property over the years shown below.
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Looking at the empty and unused buildings of Largo Home Farm today, it's hard to imagine this as a bustling place of work and thriving community of residents. Yet for a couple of hundred years, this would have been a hive of activity and a home for estate employees and their families. It was the scene of births, deaths, marriages and all sorts of other occasions. Many of the residents were long term ones - living out decades of their lives there. Lots of children grew up on the farm and walked the short distance to Kirkton of Largo School for their education. Archives such as census records show the successive coachmen, foresters, game keepers, agricultural labourers, gardeners, dairy maids and others that lived on site. Examples of just a handful of these people are given below.

Eleven births were recorded in the register of births kept by midwife Margaret Bethune as taking place at either 'Largo Place' (the cottages at the south of the steading) or 'Eagle Gate Lodge' (the south lodge house) between 1853 and 1887. Three of those were the 11th, 12th and 13th children of John Sibbald and his wife.  The written record of child number 13 (a female born on 5 January 1872) is shown above. John Sibbald was a forester on the Largo estate. He was born in Largo in 1829. Several of his daughters worked at the Cardy Net Factory. In fact, his eldest daughter Maggie Campbell Sibbald was married to fisherman James Simpson by the Reverend David Malloch at Largo Place in 1872 - the same year as the birth of her youngest sister Janet shown above. A 14th child, William Bruce Sibbald, followed in 1875. 

William Bruce was also the name of the gamekeeper on the estate, who also resided at Largo Place at the time. It would appear that John Sibbald either named his youngest son after him or after the minister of the United Free Church in Upper Largo, who also shared the name. The birth of the first child of William Bruce the gamekeeper and his wife was also recorded in the register of Margaret Bethune - in 1875, the same year as the last of John Sibbald's children. Further Bruce children were also born at Largo Place, including twins (a boy and a girl) in 1884.

​Another family which saw several of their children born at the home farm was headed by Alexander Anderson. Alexander was initially a forester on the estate but became the 'Estate Overseer' by 1891 (see census entry below). The census extract below shows the four cottages of Largo Place listed beneath Largo House itself and the Coachman's House (unoccupied on the day of the census). The only residents of Largo House that day were the sewing maid and the laundry maid. Of the four cottages of Largo Place, one was unoccupied, one filled by the 'farm manager' and his large family, another was occupied by Anderson the overseer and the other by Robert Smith the gardener and his wife Annie.
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Robert Smith was a long serving gardener on Largo Estate who lived at Largo Place for decades. In 1886 he married Annie Greig Welsh, daughter of Lower Largo Postmaster Alexander Welsh. The pair were both extremely active in the Good Templars. Mr Smith was the 'Deputy Grand Chief Templar' of the Robinson Crusoe Lodge and Mrs Smith (pictured further below) was the 'Superintendent of the Juvenile Templars' at the time that the North East Fife Good Templar Guide of 1898 was published (see extract below). 
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Of the many events that took place at Largo Place, a couple of examples are given below. A Grand Floral Fete in 1899 was opened by architect of the Lundin Links Hotel, P.L. Henderson (advertised on the front page of the 17 August Leven Advertiser). In August of 1905 the Juvenile Templars were entertained at Largo House, assembling at Largo Place before marching to an estate field for games, tea and treats. See 17 August Leven Advertiser piece below. Various estate folks were present for the occasion, which surely took place thanks to the Smiths.  Robert Smith died at Largo Place in 1919. More on the Smiths and the Good Templars organisation to follow in the near future. 
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Leading on from the previous post, let's take a closer look at the layout and buildings of Largo Home Farm. The steading was arranged around a square courtyard with a byre at its centre. With some parts dating back to the late 18th century and with multiple alterations over the years, Largo Home Farm is a fine example of agricultural development through three centuries. Most of the buildings have served more than one function over time. Below is the detailed 1964 O.S. map of the farm, with numbering to show the main component buildings, plus a recent aerial view of the site. 

1. Building associated with the sheep dip
2. Horse mill (or horse gin)
3. West range of steading
4. Cart shed
5. Inner courtyard byre
6. East range of steading
7. Row of farm cottages
8. Farmhouse
​9. Sir Andrew Wood's Tower

Building 1 is a post-war structure that was clearly associated with the adjacent sheep dip. It is of brick construction and does not appear on earlier maps. Structure 2 is the horse mill or horse gin (short for horse engine house), which adjoins the north end of the west range of the steading. Horse gins were used on many farms to drive threshing mills. These generally consisted of a rotating wooden frame to which a horse was harnessed. As the horse pulled the frame round, it drove a shaft geared to the threshing mill next door. ​These took over from hand threshing from the 1780s. The engines were initially made of wood, and houses such as this one were built to protect the engine and the horses from the weather. This structure is typical of the area, with a polygonal roof (that originally would have been pantiled) supported on stone piers. The engine would have been removed when new technology took over in the late 18th century and the building would have been repurposed. Read more about the workings of a horse gin here and here. Below is the horse gin as it was in the mid 1970s. The roof has since collapsed.
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The horse-shoe shaped byre (5) can be seen below. The black and white photograph is from around 1975 while the colour one is present day. This unusually shaped single storey structure and seems to have contained a water pump. Its main purpose was to provide shelter for livestock, usually cows. Even in its dilapidated state, it is an attractive and characterful building with its pantiled roof, dark whin rubble walls and golden sandstone window dressings.  The 1854 O.S. map (further below) indicates that this was not always in its later horse shoe shape but earlier consisted of a north edge and a small square building in the south east corner. It was built-up into the horse shoe arrangement before 1893. 

The east range of the steading (6) is pictured above as it is today (with much of the roof collapsed) and as it was circa 1975. It had high arched entrances at either end and was clearly designed to accommodate large pieces of farm equipment. The row of farm cottages (7) are shown below at circa 1975 (before the preservation work was carried out on Wood's Tower), in 1989 and as they are now. ​These dwellings for farm workers were located to the south of the main steading, set back from the working area and closer to the gardens and to Largo House. The main farmhouse (8) was located further east. It is shown in the previous post. Coming in the next part - the people who lived and worked at Largo Home Farm.

Largo Home Farm was the farm associated with Largo House that now lies in a largely derelict state. Situated to the north west of Largo House, the Home Farm is adjacent to Sir Andrew Wood's Tower (seen to the left in the above aerial photograph). "Home farm" was the widely-used term used for the farm within an estate which provided produce for the estate owner. An estate may have had many farms within its boundaries, most of which would be rented out to tenant farmers. However, the home farm was managed as a source of food and resources for the 'big house'. It was also often where the estate horses were kept. The home farm would be close to the landowner's house, as in this case. The Largo estate owned around a dozen farms, including Lundin Mill, Buckthorns, Chesterstone, Pitcruvie and Bonnyton. The extent of the Home Farm (also referred to as Largo Mains) is shown in the centre of the 1866 map below.  

It can be assumed that Largo House has long had farm buildings of some sort to support its occupants. The oldest surviving building is the doocot that stands to the left of the access road to home farm. Doocot is the Scots name for a dovecot or pigeon house. These were used as nesting places for doves or pigeons and could contain hundreds of nesting boxes or ‘pigeon holes’. The birds were an important source of fresh meat in the days when it was a challenge to keep livestock over the winter. Their feathers and droppings were also utilised for pillows and fertiliser, respectively. Read more about Fife's doocots here. 

The Largo Home Farm Doocot dates to the late 17th century and, like many others in Fife, is of the 'lectern' style. Note the south facing mono-pitched roof (now collapsed), the crow-stepped gables (where pigeons could perch) and the 'rat course' external ledge to prevent rats climbing the walls to access to doocot to steal eggs. The condition of the doocot has deteriorated noticeably over the last few decades. Below are a pair of photos taken from the same spot - on the left is a 1989 view and on the right an image captured in 2020. In thirty years, vegetation has taken hold within the roofless structure (much like what has happened to Largo House itself). The 1989 photo also shows the roof of the horse mill in the background to the right of the doocot. The horse mill structure has now collapsed (more on that later). 

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Canmore describes the listed Farmhouse at Largo Home Farm (pictured below as it was in 1975) as 18th century with the following description:

"2 storey, 3 bay house, harled with painted ashlar dressings. Glazed central door and enlarged windows to ground floor. Original first floor glazing. Pantiled roof, straight skews with simply moulded skew putts to front and crowsteps to rear at north east gable. End stacks. Single storey wing to right, rubble with droved ashlar dressings and pantile roof. Modern addition at rear."

The farmhouse is located on the far right of the home farm group of buildings (see 1854 O.S. map further below), which also include a distinctive horseshoe-shaped byre, a row of farm cottages, a horse mill and other steading buildings. In part two - a photo tour of these buildings with further description of how they were once used.

The image above of 'Victoria House', as it was then styled, dates to around 1907. Described as a "boarding establishment" of the "most modern" kind in the Fifeshire Guide advertisement below. Occupying the "best site in Lundin Links", the features to note were the "Public, Dining and Smoke Rooms. Lounge, Billiard Room and South Verandah". The latter can be seen to the right of the building above on both the first and second floors.

The gardens appear to be fairly newly laid out in fine symmetrical form and neatly lined with young trees on either edge. The building stands quite alone with none of the nearby Victoria Road houses yet in place, nor the south side of Crescent Road. The nearest houses behind Victoria House at the time of this photograph were the 1850s 'cottages' on the north side of Crescent Road. Elphinstone is visible to the left and on the right are the school house and Oldfield (then called Bayview Cottage). The map further below shows the direction from which the image was taken and the absence of neighbouring buildings.

​The location of Victoria House was ideal for a boarding house - close to the station, the golf course and the beach, plus right next to the iron bridge over the railway line. Walter Horne feued this plot and built Victoria House. He continued to own it until selling to Johnston Wright Swan around 1923. Initially, however, the boarding house was let and run by Miss Agnes Brown. Victoria House went through a number of subtle name changes over the decades from Victoria House to Victoria Boarding House to Victoria Private Hotel, before becoming Victoria Court flats in the early 1970s.

Summer visitors have long been a feature of Largo and Lundin Links. In the past, the villages were transformed during the summer season, as boarding houses filled and houses were let out. Many visitors were regulars that returned year after year, getting to know one another and the locals. Summer visitors put on concerts and raised money for the improvement of local facilities. Following the rapid expansion of Lundin Links, the village became hugely fashionable with city dwellers from both Glasgow and Edinburgh. Some prominent and interesting characters from both cities brought their families to Largo Bay to enjoy the sea air, the bathing, golf, tennis and entertainment.

One of the regular faces for a spell was A.T. Assafrey, pictured above. Born in 1844 in Estonia, son of a flour miller, Jacob Assafrey and his wife Anna. He qualified as a master confectioner in Talinn, Estonia (which at the time was Reval, Livonia, Russia) before emigrating to Scotland. ​Initially he found employment with Ferguson and Forrester, caterers. The advert for their business below from the 27 Dec 1856 Ardrossan and Saltcoats Herald shows that confectionery was part of their offering. 

The 1871 census finds Alexander as one of five lodgers of various nationalities at a dwelling on Hospital Street Govan. His occupation was described as a confectioner. The business that he set up around this time was styled as a 'chocolatier et confiseur' at 171 Sauchiehall Street and was "an early representative of foreign sophistication in the city" according to the book 'Tea and Taste: The Glasgow Tea Rooms 1875-1975' by Perilla Kinchin. On 23 November 1871 Alexander married Rachel Torrance Atkins, who was the daughter of pianoforte maker Hugh Atkins (see his advert below from 15 July 1861 Glasgow Herald). They went on to have seven daughters: Hilda, Olga, Silvia, Selma, Ruby, Vera and Alma. Alexander was naturalised as a British citizen in 1876.

The successful involvement in the Exhibition acted as a catalyst for further expansion, particularly in the tea and luncheon room side of his business. In the 1890s several more premises were opened in Glasgow and a branch was opened in Edinburgh on Princes Street. It was around the turn of the century that the Assafreys began to spend their summers in Lundin Links. The list of summer visitors published in the local papers shows them at Emsdorf House in 1901 and 1902; Keil Bank in 1904 (when the daughters performed at the Improvement Fund Concert) and Monkton Lodge in 1905. In 1905 the family were part of the "fashionable assemblage" at the opening of the Lundin Bowling Club. The event is pictured below - the gentlemen to the left of the magnified part of the photo perhaps being Mr Assafrey. Alexander lived until 1930, passing away at the age of 85 at his home at Kirn on the Firth of Clyde.