VINTAGE LUNDIN LINKS AND LARGO
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Wartime Postcard

9/5/2025

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The above postcard is postmarked Lundin Links 21 November 1917 and was addressed to Mrs Bushell, 36 Kett's Hill in Norwich. The sender was Sergeant George Ballingall and his message was as follows:

Dear Mrs Bushell, I have arrived here all safe and glad to say found all my dear ones in the pink. I am pleased I am the same. Hoping that this P.C. finds you all well. I don't know how to thank you for the fruit etc as it came in very nice on the journey north. Note the cross on house where I stay. I remain yours sincerely, Sgt. G. Ballingall

This was during the First World War and George Ballingall was a joiner who lived at 3 Park Terrace in Lundin Links (in the house he had marked with a cross on the postcard - see detail below). George was the son of John Ballingall the cork cutter and artist. Having been in the volunteers when war broke out, George left Fife to serve with The Black Watch (Royal Highlanders). At the time he sent the postcard, in November 1917, he must have been on a visit home. The "dear ones" that he refers to in his message are his wife Elizabeth Horne and three children, Isabella (born 1908), Annie (born 1910) and John (born 1916). He must have been relieved to find them all "in the pink". The postcard had been produced by Young's newsagent of Emsdorf Street and conveniently featured the Ballingall family home at 3 Park Terrace in the centre of the image. 

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The First World War ended in November 1918 but in 1919 George was awarded the Meritorious Service Medal (MSM) for services in the field. This award was part of the King's Birthday Honours, which in 1919 were dominated by awards related to the recently ended war. The 3 June 1919 Dundee Courier below detailed the "Gallant Scots decorated by the King for services rendered in France and Flanders". Ballingall's name is highlighted below. The 14 June 1919 St Andrews Citizen piece further below notes his "considerable service in France" but few details are given of the nature of the distinguished service being awarded. If you know more about the events that led to his MSM award - please comment.

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It must have been a huge relief for his family that George returned safely home at the end of the war, given that Largo Parish lost 51 men in the First World War. It must have been a source of great pride to see him awarded the Meritorious Service Medal after the war had ended. However, George Ballingall's story was not to have a happy ending. He became unwell shortly afterwards and was ultimately admitted to Glenalmond Sanatorium in Perthshire, a facility for patients with tuberculosis (a bacterial infection of the lungs which was common at the time). After serveral months as a patient there, George died on 23 June 1921, aged 32 years. 

George's wife had given birth to twin sons days before, on 10 June 1921 at the family home at 3 Park Terrace. In the days between the birth of twins Thomas and George and the death of their father, the 1921 census was taken. At 3 Park Terrace, Elizabeth was recorded as the head of the household, her five children were listed and in addition her sister Mary Ainslie (nee Horn) and niece Isabella were also living there. Meanwhile George was recorded as a patient at Glenalmond, where it was noted that he was a joiner with R.G. Galloway and had five dependent children. He died two days after the census was taken.

The 30 June 1921 Leven Advertiser below gave an account of the funeral of George Ballingall, which was a military and masonic funeral. Over 100 masons attended, along with representatives of the Black Watch and the pipe band. Largo Silver Band were also present. 

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As a footnote, the purple pencil in which the postcard was written was likely an army issue copying pencil. Copying, or indelible, pencils were widely used during the First World War to assist officers in completing paperwork. They were used in the field as the non-erasable qualities of indelible pencils made them much more convenient than the alternatives.
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Hillhead Grocer Shop - Part 3

4/4/2025

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The previous two blog posts have explored the origins of the former grocer shop at the foot of Hillhead Street (seen on the far left of the image above) and the somewhat turbulent turn of the century period for the shop. The next chapter in its history picks up from the departure of Matthew Barrie to Melrose and the arrival of Lawrence Smith from Carron Bridge, Falkirk. Born in 1881, Lawrence Smith was the eldest son of pattern maker Lawrence Smith senior, and was grocer's assistant at the time of the 1901 census. Five years later he married Alice Lawson and the couple relocated to Fife. The notice below from the 1 November 1906 Leven Advertiser notes the grant of a license for Smith for the Lundin Mill grocer premises. ​

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The next year Lawrence and Alice's eldest daughter Jessie Watson Smith was born in Lundin Mill. The 1911 census records Lawrence, Alice and a 3-year-old Jessie in the household. Later that year another daughter, Jean, was born. The photograph below shows Jean (left) and Jessie (right) a couple of years later.
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​The image above shows Jessie outside the entrance to the grocer shop, seated in the carriage of the delivery horse. The same image is below, superimposed on the shop building in more recent times. Nowadays the street is filled with parked cars.

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Lawrence Smith can be seen in the photograph above at the rear of the shop with his prize-winning dog and a trophy. He frequently entered dog competitions and was well-known in these sporting circles. Of course, 1914 saw the outbreak of the First World War and in September of that year, Lawrence joined up at Leven. Joining the 9th Battalion of the Seaforth Highlanders, he left for the front in April 1915. Lawrence is pictured below in his uniform. 

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In his absence, the grocer shop was supported by the wider family, including Lawrence's wife Alice, his widowed mother Jean and his younger brother William M. Smith. The extract from the 7 September 1916 Leven Advertiser tells us that two years later, William became the third Smith brother to join the army. According to the valuation roll, the official proprietor of the grocer shop at this time was their mother Jean Smith. 
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Meanwhile, Lawrence had a short spell at home on leave in October 1917. Sadly, only two months later he was killed by an enemy shell on 13 December 1917, aged 36 years. In the 27 December 1917 Leven Advertiser below, Lawrence was described as "an excellent leader of men, and devoid of fear, who had won the hearts of all the men in his platoon" and "a man of outstanding qualities, calm and unperturbable, and always brave and cheerful".  Touchingly the letter received by his widow stated that "you have lost a husband of whom you should be proud and your daughters can always refer to their father in future years as a gallant and efficient soldier". Sergeant Smith was buried with full military hours in a British cemetery. 
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Sergeant Lawrence Smith is one of the 51 men who fell in the First World War named on Largo War Memorial. The detail on the memorial shown below includes his name in the middle of the list on one of the panels.

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After the war, the shop continued for a time. The 1920 valuation roll for Largo Parish still lists the property as a shop, with Jean Smith as the proprietor. However, by 1925 the former shop was described as an 'office'. It had become the office of Largo Parish Council (see above) and remained as such for many years, even after the death of Jean Smith in 1934. In October 1925 a "daring fraud" took place in the office when David Smail pretended to have obtained work as a miner. He was given £2 by the Inspector of the Poor to purchase a pick and shovel and to tide his family over until the work began. However, the job did not materialise and he used the money himself, leaving "his wife and children destitute" according to the 22 December 1925 Leven Advertiser below.
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When the use of the office ceased around 1950, the building became fully residential. Today the casual passer-by would hardly believe that this building was once a busy village amenity with an intriguing history. If you have any images or information about the days of this grocer shop, please do get in touch. 
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Decades after the grocer shop ceased to trade, the name 'Smith' could still be made out above the door. Very faint wording was also visible on the gable end. In the image above it appears that the words Licensed Grocer were part of the painted signage high on the gable wall.

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With many thanks to the descendants of Lawrence Smith for sharing the family photographs and information.
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David Baldie (1881-1960)

6/12/2024

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David Baldie (pictured above as featured in 22 October 1960 Fife Free Press) was born in Woodside on 15 December 1881 to coal miner William Baldie and his wife Martha Hamilton. David was named after his paternal grandfather, David Baldie (who came to Woodside when it was a newly built settlement and is recorded there in the 1841 census as a 30-year-old coal miner). In 1841 the immediate neighbour of the Baldie family was James Black and family, including a 2-year-old Robert Black, who would go on to be Chair of Largo Parish Council.

Young David attended New Gilston Primary School until 1893, when the family relocated to Kettlebridge for a few months. When they returned to Largo Parish later the same year, he started at Largo Primary School. However by the 1901 census, the Baldie family had moved to the neighbouring Parish of Scoonie, where they lived on Waggon Road, in a cottage they named 'Woodside Cottage'. William was engaged as a coal carter and he placed the notice below in the 5 December 1901 Leven Advertiser to advertise his services. A 19-year-old David was working as a coal miner hewer, following in the footsteps of both his father and grandfather before him. This occupation, however, was short-lived and in 1905 David joined the police.
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When David joined Kirkcaldy Burgh Police, the force was only 36 strong. Quickly making his mark, David was promoted to sergeant after six years, becoming the youngest person to hold the rank. In December 1912 he married Wilhelmina McKinnon at his parents home, Woodside Cottage, in Leven. The couple had their first child, William, in Kirkcaldy the following year. During the First World War, David was in charge of the "aliens and suspected persons department" at Kirkcaldy - receiving a commendation from the Home Department for his work. Promotion to the rank of inspector followed in 1925 and a year later was appointed Deputy Chief Constable.

In February 1933 David Baldie became Chief Constable of Kirkcaldy Burgh Police. He continued in that role until his retirement in May 1949, just before the merger of Kirkcaldy, Dunfermline and Fife Country Police Forces. During the 16 years of his leadership, the force grew to become 64 strong. Notably, he oversaw the development of the fingerprinting and photographic department during his tenure. During those years, Baldie also held the role of President of the Chief Constables (Scotland) Association and represented the Scottish Chief Constables at the coronation of King George VI in 1937. 
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In 1939, just before the outbreak of the Second World War, David was awarded the O.B.E. for his services - the burgh's first official to receive this award. The photo below from the front page of the 14 July 1939 Dundee Evening Telegraph shows him at the King's investiture at St James's Palace. ​Wartime brought increased responsibilities, with David becoming A.R.P. Controller for Kirkcaldy. The Burgh Police Force was augmented by 200 Special Constables during the Second World War. One of David's own daughters served under her father as a member of the Women's Auxiliary Police Force. In June 1948, David was awarded the King's Police Medal in the Birthday Honours List. A few weeks later he was presented to the King and Queen on their tour of Fife.
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In May 1949, David retired from the police after 44 years service, and on the eve of the merger of Fife's Police Forces. Pictured above in the 11 May Dundee Courier, he described his career as "a wonderful adventure" and that he "would not hesitate to go through it again". Following his retirement David became a member of Kirkcaldy Town Council - serving on many of its committees. For many years he was secretary and treasurer of the local branch of the Royal Scottish Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children. He also had a long association with the St Andrew's and Red Cross Scottish Ambulance Service. He served on the Board of Management of the Kirkcaldy Y.M.C.A., was a long-time elder of the Victoria Road Church, a past president of Kirkcaldy Rotary Club and a member of Kirkcaldy Bowling Club.
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​David Baldie died in October 1960 aged 78 years (see 16 October Sunday Post above and 22 October Fife Free Press below). He was survived by his wife Wilhelmina, two daughters, Isabella and Margaret, and his son William, a former reporter at the Fife Free Press. In that newspaper's obituary David was described as "one of the well-known figures of Kirkcaldy...held in profound esteem by all" who was "possessed of a rich sense of humour". The piece also noted that "his considered opinions merited respectful attention and revealed a shrewd, balanced and wise mind, contributing constructively to debate and discussion." 

The obituary concluded that David Baldie "came from humble beginnings himself, a phase of life he never forgot. It gave him a latent depth of character, a couthy sense of humour and a prudent outlook, when he came to guide police affairs". About fifty uniformed officers and men of Fife Constabulary lined the entrance to Hayfield Cemetery at his funeral which was widely attended by large sections of the community.

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Footnote: David Baldie's grandson William Sinton, entered the diplomatic service, becoming Ambassador to Panama, then Algeria and then Bolivia. Like his grandfather, William received the O.B.E..
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Largo Harbour Bridge - Opening

29/11/2024

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The previous post covered the life of Robert Black - a native of Woodside who became Chair of Largo Parish Council and Inspector of the Poor for the Parish. Indeed it was Robert Black who, towards the end of his life, cut "the barricade of red, white and blue ribbon" with "a pair of silver scissors" to allow the first cars to pass over the new bridge linking Drummochy to Lower Largo on Saturday 3 October 1914. Many years in contemplation, the long-desired bridge was composed of steel girders and troughing and parapet railing, with concrete wing walls. It came at a cost of £1,455, 8s and 5d.

The commemorative photograph above was captured by keen amateur photographer, Robert Paxton of Homelands. It shows the first of the three cars that crossed the new bridge as part of the opening ceremony. This car, registration SP 708, bedecked in flowers, belonged to Lower Largo's Walter Horne. Another of the cars belonged to Upper Largo's Thomas Wishart. The cars carried members of the Largo Parish Council, the engineers and the bridge contractors. A profusion of flags and bunting surrounded around the bridge. The buildings in the background from left to right are The Railway Inn (light-coloured gable end), Alexandra House (centre), Beach House (3-storey terrace with dormer windows and many chimneys) and the Crusoe Hotel (extreme right). Robert Black and his wife Eliza could well be among the crowd. Are you able to identify any of the faces shown below? 
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Among the crowd of onlookers are three young women holding collection tins and trays of charity flags. There was a 'flag day' in progress to raise funds for the Belgian Relief Fund set up to support a country stricken by the opening weeks of the First World War. The extract below from the 4 September 1914 East of Fife Record gives a feel for the news being reported back to Britain from the front line and explains why locals had been motivated to raise funds. The flag day was managed by Margaret Paxton, wife of Robert Paxton who was also treasurer of the local Belgian Relief Fund. The 3 October flag day collection raised the sum of £14 14s and 4d thanks to the generous support of locals from across the three villages.  

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​Having been presented with a pair of silver scissors by Walter Horne, Robert Black declared the bridge open "in the name of the Parish Council" and expressed "the hope that it would fulfil all their expectations and be of advantage to all and disadvantage to none". As the ribbon was cut, there was "a great scramble on the part of the spectators to secure a piece as a remembrance of the occasion". The 8 October Leven Advertiser ran a lengthy article describing the occasion. A large crowd raised loud cheers "as the first gaily decorated motor car sped across the bridge". 

After the official party crossed the bridge in the cars, they, and a few select others, made their way to the recently completed Victoria Hotel for a "daintily cooked and perfectly served dinner" supplied by Miss Brown. Toasts were made, including one to Messrs Bruce and Proudfoot of Cupar and Kirkcaldy, the civil engineers. The building contractor for the bridge project had been Mr Henderson of Markinch. The Motherwell Bridge Company was also acknowledged, having supplied specialist materials. The engineers and contractors presented Robert Black with a silver tray and Walter Horne with a silver cigar case, in recognition of their co-operation as members of the Parish Council. After completion of the toasts, speeches, and presentations the national anthem was sung.

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The pair of maps below compares the harbour area before and after the building of the road bridge. Close inspection shows that the corners of a couple of gardens had to be clipped to enable smooth entrance to and exit from the bridge for vehicles. One of those who gave up a portion of their garden was Dr Selkirk, owner of Alexandra House (which had a large rectangular front garden in the older map). 
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One of the people present at the road bridge opening ceremony, shared his recollections of attending the opening of the old wooden footbridge across the burn some 40 years beforehand, in 1875. Mr Henderson the contractor for the new bridge reacted by commenting that no individual who had witnessed the ceremony today would outlast the new steel bridge. He was quite right! A series of images of the bridge as it looks today are below.
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Remembrance 2024

8/11/2024

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As we pause to remember those named on Largo War Memorial - notice the new addition to the memorial site this year. The photograph above was taken earlier this year, soon after the weekend of events remembering the Polish soldiers in Fife under General Stanisław Sosabowski. Three floral wreaths in red and white can be seen at the base of the memorial and the Polish flag is flying behind it. A new commemorative plaque was unveiled to the right hand side of the memorial, shown in detail below, which reads:

"In memory of Major General Stanisław Sosabowski, the 1st Independent Parachute Brigade headquartered in Largo House and the Polish soldiers assigned to defend Fife during the Second World War who all fought as part of the Allied forces."

In his memoir Freely I served, Sosabowski states that in 1941 "I made up my mind to form a Polish Parachute Brigade. I was all alone in my office on the second floor of the Leven YMCA; a small coal fire burning in an iron grate spread a meagre warmth through the stolid bare office. It was afternoon and everyone was out training, and I had several hours in which to pace the room and make plans". Sosabowski chose Largo House as the official training centre.

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The 23-25 August 2024 programme of events marked the 80th anniversary of Operation Market Garden and the Battle of Arnhem where many of the Parachute Brigade eventually fought. Events at Largo comprised a wreath laying at the War Memorial, candle-lighting at the graves of Sosabowski's soldiers at Largo cemetery and a ceilidh at the Simpson Institute. Other events included a ceremony at the cliffs on Kincraig Point, a march along the General Sosabowski Way (a route that runs through places closely associated with the presence of the 1st Independent Parachute Brigade in Fife during World War II), a cross-country run, a series of historical lectures and a service at Falkland Palace. A video showing highlights from the weekend of events can be viewed here.

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Photo of wreath laying ceremony courtesy of Fife Council.
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Stina (Solway Lass)

7/6/2024

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Pictured above is Stina, a two-masted 100-ton steel and timber schooner built by Bodewes at Martenshoek in the Netherlands in 1902. Incredibly, this vessel still sails the seas today and her story is a remarkable one. Stina was originally a sail-powered cargo ship, designed to carry heavy loads across the North Sea. She was described in the book 'Coastwise Sail' by John Anderson as "a very handy type of shallow draught coaster". Her visit to Largo took place very soon after her construction and certainly before 1905. A clue to what Stina may have been doing in Largo can be seen in the newspaper snippet below (30 May 1903 Edinburgh Evening News) when she arrived at Burntisland with a load of oil cake.

At this time there was an oil cake mill at Burntisland, owned by David Russell of Silverburn. Russell also owned the Largo Oil and Cake Mill (pictured further below). This former flax spinning mill had been modified around 1860 by Russell so that box presses could be used to extract oil from linseed, cottonseed, rapeseed, etc. The leftover material was then turned into 'cakes' (e.g. linseed cake and cotton cake) which could be used as animal feed). Some years later, David Russell acquired the old sugar mill at Burntisland and converted it for similar purposes. 
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In 1905 the Stina (a female forename popular in the Nordic countries) was sold and renamed Adolf. She traded across the Baltic and North seas under the German flag until the outbreak of World War One. During this conflict she was taken as a prize of war by the British Navy and turned into a Q-ship - in other words a decoy ship intended to lure enemy submarines into making surface attacks. Q-ships had concealed weaponry which could then be used to open fire. Such vessels formed a fleet to sail in front of the Merchant Fleet to protect them from being torpedoed.

Around 1922, the vessel was sold to Dalbeattie-based shipping company John Carswell and Sons. There in the Solway Firth, she had a paraffin engine fitted and was given the name Solway Lass. For years she transported all sorts of general cargoes across the Irish Sea, often calling at Liverpool. One typical cargo example was maize brought into the Solway Firth to be processed for use as animal feed. ​Carswell sold her in 1935 to Kristian Andersen, a Swede who had settled in Portmadoc in Wales.

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The Irish Times of 12 March 1937 above tells of how Solway Lass ran aground at Ringsend, on the sands at Sandymount on 11 March 1937 in "mountainous seas" and "the worst blizzard for many years" while bound from Liverpool to Wicklow. She could not be reached by rocket apparatus and the lifeboat could not get near her. The crew (including a 16-year-old on his first voyage) managed to wade ashore at low tide. It was feared that she would become a total wreck if the next tide took her onto nearby rocks. However, she survived, her cargo was unloaded, (see image below from the 15 March Irish Times) and soon afterwards she was re-floated. 

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Although this misadventure ultimately had a happy ending for the ship and crew, the following year brought about tragedy on board the Solway Lass. The vessel had been between Pwllheli and Criccieth Bay when the Captain Kristian Andersen had twice gone down to attend the engines and failed to return the second time. When another crew member went down to investigate, he too failed to return. The third crew member, and only other person on board, went down and found the other two unconscious. Dragging both to the deck, one was able to be revived, while the Captain died from carbon monoxide poisoning.
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Shortly after this sad incident, Andersen's widow sold Solway Lass to Peter Pedersen of Lemvig, Denmark. She was renamed Bent - a male forename of Danish origin which means 'blessed'. From there she once again carried cargo across the Baltic and North Seas. The Second World War interrupted her trading exploits. Some stories report that she was seized by the Germans, who then used her a supply ship. Her troubles continued beyond the end of the war. The book 'Coastwise Sail' states that "in 1946 she was struck by two mines and had to be beached in a sinking condition but was salved and repaired".

Around 1949 she was given yet another new name - Sundeved - and carried cargo for a Danish Shipping Company. Sundeved is an area on the east coast of the Jutland peninsula in South Denmark. After a couple of decades, in late 1971, Dane Leif Brochmann took Sundeved on a voyage from Dover to Fiji, via Barbados, the Panama Canal and Tahiti. The vessel then remained in Fiji for many years, where she was rechristened Lawendua. She traded between the Fijian Islands and at some point appears to have been given another new name - Tui Na Savusavu.

In 1983, Sydney businessman Tim Lloyd found her in Fiji in a rundown state but still being used to transport cargo. He bought her, took her to Sydney, restored the name Solway Lass and embarked upon a full refit. During this lengthy and costly process, her cargo hold was fitted out in teak as a large dining room to seat 60.
Below is an image of the refit which appeared in the 26 June 1986 Galloway News. Once restored, Solway Lass operated out of Sydney Harbour and was quite the tourist attraction as an historic tall ship. 

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In a proud moment, in 1988, Solway Lass took part in Australia's bicentennial celebrations, participating in the First Fleet re-enactment. Several tall ships were chosen to follow part of the route of the First Fleet which sailed from Portsmouth in May 1787, arriving in Sydney in January 1788. The 18th century fleet of eleven ships carried around 1400 colonists, including 759 convicts, who founded modern Australia. The original route went from Portsmouth, via Tenerife, Rio de Janeiro and Cape Town. Solway Lass followed the last part of the route from Botany Bay to Sydney. The image of Solway Lass below appeared in the brochure for the event and was reproduced in the 9 January 1986 Galloway News.
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Her time in Sydney ended in 1999, when she was purchased by Australian Tallships Cruises. Her interior was again remodelled, to suit overnight cruises, with bunks for 32 guests. Since then Solway Lass has operated in the Whitsunday Islands, between the northeast coast of Queensland, Australia and the Great Barrier Reef. From her base at Airlie Beach, she offers cruises around the Islands including snorkelling dives on the Reef.

More information about that here: 
https://solwaylass.com.au/

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Having survived two world wars, almost becoming a wreck twice and having given many decades hard service around the globe (not to mention many name changes) the warm, calm waters of the Whitsundays seem a most fitting place for Solway Lass to enjoy her old age. Recent images of her are shown above (from Wikipedia) and below (from John Downie). Having celebrated her centenary in 2002, and had another major refit in 2018, she continues to be an important and iconic ship. ​Her present life is certainly a world away from carrying oil cakes along the Fife coast.

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With thanks to Jimmy Simpson for the image of Stina at Largo Harbour and for the prompt to investigate her story.
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Largo Crusoe Football Club

19/4/2024

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Football had been played in Fife for some time before the game was formalised with the foundation of the Scottish Football Association (SFA) in 1873. Above is the description of a chaotic sounding match played in 1845 in Cupar, where twelve writers took on twelve tradesmen (Fife Herald 13 March). As the popularity of football accelerated among the general population, the Scottish Junior Football Association (SJFA) was formed (in 1886). The word 'junior' indicated the grade of football played rather than the age of the players. The term 'juvenile' was used for young players aged under 21 years.

The top tier Scottish Football League began in 1890 and over the years that followed football flourished at all levels, senior, junior and juvenile. Numerous teams were established, including many in Fife. An East Fife Football Association was set up in the early 1890s for junior clubs, with a 'juvenile' section added in 1895. Around the same year Largo had formed its own juvenile team, named Largo Crusoe. For many years, 'The Crusoe' flourished, competing in various cup competitions as well as local leagues. They played their home matches in Lundin Links, specifically at the ground which was then referred to as Homelands Park but is now known as The Common.

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The match report above from 6 March 1896 East of Fife Record tells of a game against the L. and C. (Largoward and Colinsburgh). This report lists the Largo players' names and includes some familiar surnames such as Horne, Ballingall, Kidd, Clunie, Simpson and Gillies. Such names suggest much of the team were drawn from families with fishing connections - perhaps the reason for the team taking the Crusoe name (in a nod to their sea-faring heritage). 

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In 1897, the new season kicked off with the Largo men taking to the field in an opening match against Kilrenny F.C. - a team that called themselves the ”K.Y. team”. A good game was anticipated, as the opponents were chiefly employees of Cellardyke boot factory and hailed from Dundee. Nevertheless, the K.Y. "could not withstand the rushes of the Crusoe and retired defeated 7 goals to 4. The Crusoe were aided by Kennedy, Leven, who did some smart work centre-forward". Alexander Kidd the Largo Crusoe Club Secretary suggested that those interested in spectating "should lose no time in writing for dates". Above are the type of football shirts that players back then might have worn (from an 1897 catalogue).
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In 1897 a short history of the first 11 years of the SJFA was published. This included professional photographs of 98 of 170 clubs with membership of the association. This included the St Andrews-based Ancient City Athletic - featuring John Ripley (2nd from left in the back row) who went on to be awarded the Victoria Cross in 1915 and is buried at Largo Cemetery. Also included was neighbouring team Leven Thistle. If you have or have ever seen a photograph of the Largo Crusoe Football Club from any stage in their existence, please get in touch. If you know what their team colours were, or have any other information about them, please comment.

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Players Horne and Thomson (mentioned in the 1896 match report against the L. and C. above) must have been Largo Crusoe's star players. Both were chosen in 1898 for the East Fife Association select team to play against Edinburgh Association. The same year, both Andrew Horne and Thomas Thomson moved from juvenile to junior level to play for Leven Thistle (the year after the photo of the team above was taken). Horne in particular distinguished himself at Leven Thistle, which led to further moves - first to Buckhaven and then to Cowdenbeath to play at senior level in the Northern League.
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​Horne went on to sign for Dundee F.C. in May 1903, where he was described as their "best reservist" (see 19 November 1903 Leven Advertiser excerpt above). "Horne played himself into the good graces of the crowd" according to the Dundee Evening Post of 25 November 1903, which also remarked that "the Lower Largo lad is as game as they make them". However, an injury, sustained against Partick Thistle, impacted the later part of the season and Horne found himself on the move again. Rejecting a good offer from Middlesbrough, he elected to return to Cowdenbeath, in a move that would allow him to continue in the family joinery trade. The Fife fans were delighted to see the return of their "crack forward", pictured below, from the 1 October 1904 Dundee Evening Post. 

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By the 1905/06 season, Horne had moved to Bayview to play for East Fife, where he remained for several years. In 1912 he emigrated to Canada to set up a business there. The East Fife team played a benefit match on his behalf shortly after his departure (see 17 October 1912 Leven Advertiser piece above). However, when the First World War broke out, elder brother Walter sent for him to help with the family business in Largo - most of his employees having joined the Army or Navy. Back in Scotland, Andrew was granted a conditional exemption from military service in July 1916 but joined the army later the same year, aged 37. His military service record described him as being 5 feet and 6 inches tall, with blue eyes and brown hair, tattoo marks on back of his left hand ("sailing ship and blue dots") and a weakness in the right knee. Andrew Horne died in 1945, aged 65, at Durham Terrace, Lower Largo. The Dundee Evening Telegraph noted his passing in their 25 January issue below.

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Largo Crusoe Football Club, had their ups and downs during the years after Andrew Horne played for them. In 1910 they had "a respectable array of talent" according to local press and in 1911 the team made it to the final of the East Fife Cup. This closely contested match with Buckhaven Hawthorn (described below in the 14 June Leven Advertiser) ended in defeat, one goal to nil, for the Crusoe. The team considered contesting the result and requesting a rematch but this never came to pass.
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Unsurprisingly, the Largo Crusoe team went into abeyance during the First World War. The local team re-emerged in the 1920s under the new name of Largo Rovers, who were later rebadged as Largo Thistle. The Second World War interrupted play once again, with Largo Villa being the team name thereafter. More on the exploits of those later teams another time.
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Letham Glen

22/3/2024

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The previous posts have covered the life of former Lower Largo resident John Letham (from whom Leven's Letham Glen takes its name) and the days when Letham Glen was known as Spinkie Den (or more officially Sillerhole Den). The renamed Letham Glen dates back to 1925, when Leven Town Council took over the glen and changed its name. The date on the stone arched entrance shown above displays the date 1925 although the arch itself was not constructed until 1930 (see Dundee Evening Telegraph above). The new entrance gates were part of the Town Council's gradual enhancements over the years. Features such as this, and bridges over the burn, like as the one pictured below, were added when budget allowed.

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The first Rose Queen was crowned at Letham Glen in 1938, in a new element of Leven Development Association's summer programme. Elizabeth Ballantyne of Dewar's Buildings, Parkhill, a Third Year pupil at Leven Higher Grade School, was elected the first Rose Queen (also briefly known as the May Queen).  After the lavish ceremony was rained off twice, Betty was finally crowned in the glen a week later than scheduled (see photograph below from 10 June Edinburgh Evening News). The following year, a second summer festival took place where once again the Rose Queen crowning took place at Letham Glen. However in subsequent years the event moved to grounds of Carberry House.

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Another 1930s innovation was the proposal in January 1939 from Leven Cage Bird Society to install an aviary in the glen. This was agreed to by Leven Town Council and an enclosure was constructed with the plan to stock budgerigars and exotic birds. However the outbreak of war saw the facility lie empty until the summer of 1947. Many events did continue to take place in the glen during the war years, including equipment demonstrations and concerts organised by the Polish Forces stationed in the area (such as the examples below from the 7 June 1944 Leven Mail).
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The swimming pond at the south end of the glen, which had officially opened in 1921, began to deteriorate in the 1930s. As early as 1930 there were discussions about closing the pond and replacing it with a salt water alternative by the seafront. Despite long-running discussions, this never plan came to fruition and the pond at the glen remained into the 1940s (shown behind gates beyond the putting green in the image below). By that point it was described in the local press as an "eyesore" and a "public menace" (according to the Leven Advertiser of 4 February 1948). One idea explored by the Council was to turn it into a lily pond but in the end it was agreed to replace the swimming pond with a sunken garden.

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The 26 May 1949 Leven Mail updated that "work is going on at Letham Glen which will make the Glen even more attractive. The sunken garden with fountain at the site of the old swimming pond there is now taking shape." There must have been a fashion for sunken gardens around this time, as Festival Gardens close to Leven Prom and Macduff Park by East Wemyss also had sunken gardens laid out around this time. Letham Glen's sunken garden is pictured below.
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The 1940s, 1950s and 1960s were the heyday of the popular 'Go As You Please' contests in the glen. These were talent competitions, hosted by a compere, where people could sign up in advance or on the day to sing, dance, recite a poem, play an instrument or perform some other turn. An accompanist was on hand to play music. Cash prizes were on offer for those judged to be the most skilled performers by the panel of adjudicators. Often consolation prizes handed out for the less talented. Sometimes these contests were themed - for example on the 'Scotch Night' all artists had to perform a Scots item and wear something tartan or a sprig of heather.

Other activities held in the glen included treasure hunts around the grounds, putting competitions, pie eating contests, theatre group performances, community singing, dog shows and by the 1960s barbecues. Other special events included selection of a Glamorous Granny, a Holiday Queen or a Pin-Up Boy. Concerts of various kinds were another feature - from pipe bands and military bands to dance bands and choirs. In the mid-1950s, a bandstand was erected, replacing a smaller 1930s bandstand, and soon afterwards a platform for dancing was added. The above example advert dates to July 1957 while the one below is from July 1961. 
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The gardens were well tended as these postcard images illustrate. In 1970 a wishing well was built thanks to a donation from Leven Inner Wheel Club. The well had the inscription "If in here your siller cast, a wish may well come true at last". Proceeds from the well were given to local charities. The aviary of the 1940s eventually evolved into a much wider Pets' Corner, which by 1970, featured pheasants, swans, ducks, geese, pygmy goats, sheep and deer. Later additions included donkeys, rabbits and guinea pigs as well as occasional more exotic residents. The keeping of animals ended at the glen in 1998 and in 2001 Fife Council took the decision to close all such facilities across the county.
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The above map shows the trail around the glen in the 1980s. The Nature Centre is shown at the foot of the map, with the wishing well and pets' corner close by. The wooden nature centre was constructed around 1980 from timber felled in the glen itself. It was an ideal venue for visiting groups of school children and for evening talks, among other things. The numbered stops on the nature trail were as follows:

1. Duck pond            2. Deer enclosure          3. Bandstand                 4. Woodland A     
5. Woodland B          6. Woodland gorge        7. Ochre mill                 8. Sitka spruce grove     
9. Top bridge            10. Ochre millstone       11. Silver birch trees   12. Geans (Wild cherry trees)
​13. Old oak tree       14. Beech tree                15. Elm tree                  16. The last bridge

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Hercules the grizzly bear started visiting Letham Glen in 1984 and became a regular summer fixture. The image above appeared in the 29 July 1987 Dundee Courier. Typically he visited every Tuesday for six weeks over the summer with adoptive parents Andy and Maggie Robin. Audiences watched Hercules wrestle with Andy, swim in a small pool and eat a picnic, among other things. They also had to opportunity to ask questions about Hercules and his special 'Hercmobile' tour bus. Hercules visited Letham Glen thirteen summers in a row, the last year being 1996.

Another popular part of the summer schedule during the 1980s and 1990s was the 'craftsmen in residence' programme, where different artists demonstrated their skills in the nature centre. Over the years these included jewellery making, batik, weaving, pottery, screen printing, tapestry, knitting and dyeing. In 1994, thousands of visitors descended on the glen when TV personality Mr Blobby made a guest appearance.
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The millennium was marked by the installation in the glen's sunken garden of a granite replica of the Leven mercat cross, a structure dating back to the 17th century which features sundials on its shaft, now located in the gardens of Carberry House (pictured above). The replica features designs by local children. Today there are plans afoot to mark the centenary of Letham Glen as a public space in 2025. That will be a fantastic opportunity to reflect on all that the park has seen over the past one hundred years and more. The opportunity will also allow people to recall the role of John Letham in setting the natural beauty spot on the road to becoming an important community space, which so many folks have enjoyed over the decades.  

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A poem inspired by Letham Glen by John Mathieson, published in the Leven Mail in 1961.
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Remembrance 2023

10/11/2023

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This Remembrance Day the blog will focus in on just one of the names inscribed on Largo War Memorial - that of Sergeant Edward Smith. Born at the Temple, Largo on 14 September 1895 to fisherman Charles Smith and his wife Agnes Turnbull, Edward was their sixth son and one of eleven siblings, all of whom were alive at the time of 1911 census. In that census, aged 15, Edward was described as an apprentice plasterer. Elder brother David was also a plasterer. The family were living at Berwick View on Lower Largo's Main Street. Now known as Crampie (pictured below) this is the house which still displays a 'sun plaque' on its external wall. 

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​Edward Smith joined the 1st/6th battalion of the Highland Light Infantry soon after the outbreak of war. He fought in Gallipoli and Palestine before later serving in France. After a visit home in August 1918, Edward was in northern France the following month at the time of the recapture of Cantaing. It was there that he was killed on 1 October 1918. The 17 October 1918 Leven Advertiser reported on the death of Edward, along with that of another local soldier, Thomas Johnston (see below). Edward is buried at Cantaing British Cemetery in France.

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Edward (pictured above courtesy of Ancestry.co.uk) is also remembered at Largo cemetery on the grave of his parents (see below) as well as on Largo War Memorial.

Lest we forget.

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Eagle Gates Lodge

27/10/2023

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The previous post looked at the Eagle Gates which once provided access to Largo House from the South. Now they provide access only to the Eagle Gates Lodge. Pictured above, the Lodge has outlasted its 'parent' mansion by many decades. The annotated aerial image below shows the Lodge in context within the grounds of the now derelict Largo House. The photograph highlights the following features:

1. Eagle Gates Lodge            2. East Drive Entrance             3. Cricket Ground           4. Largo House (ruin)
5. West Drive Entrance        6. Walled Garden                      7. Wood's Tower             8. Largo Home Farm

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​A more detailed view of the Lodge's location is shown below, with Largo Burn flowing past it, through a small valley to the east, before it passes under the road to continue its route alongside the Serpentine Walk, ultimately discharging into the sea at the Temple car park. A Lodge appears on this site in an 1827 map and originally had a simple rectangular footprint. Over the years it has been extended and modernised. 

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The earliest mention of the name 'Eagle Gate' dates to 1851, when the census return (above) lists a 59-year-old widow named Susan Low as the "Lodge Keeper". The 1841 census a decade before described the building as simply "Largo Lodge". Between 1840 and 1850, the ownership of Largo House had changed multiple times. General James Durham died at Largo House in 1840 and was succeeded in his Largo estate by his nephew Thomas Calderwood Durham of Polton. The latter died only two years later, also at Largo House, and was succeeded by his brother Admiral Sir Philip Charles Henderson Calderwood Durham. Philip died in 1845 in Naples and his estates at Largo and Polton passed to his niece Lilias Dundas Calderwood Durham (the daughter of Thomas Calderwood Durham). She was the widow of Robert Dundas of Arniston, who had died in 1838.

The Eagle Gate Lodge name was used in the census from 1851 onwards. In 1861 an Alexander Imrie (farm servant) lived there with his wife, children and sister-in-law. The detail of the 1861 census return is shown below. In fact the Largo Parish census that year begins with Eagle Gate Lodge which is listed number 1, ahead of the Mansion House of Largo, followed by the Stables, Gardens, Bothy and Home Farm.
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The Eagle Gate Lodge gets a mention in the newspaper archives in the 1860s when the Dundee Advertiser piece below from 16 October 1866, names the location in a snippet about a rifleman shooting a goose.

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The 1871 census records 'Lodge Eagle Gate', occupied by John Sibbald, age 42, wood forester plus his wife and nine children. Ten years on another forester - Robert Simpson - lived there with his wife. By 1891, the forester living there was Thomas Millar, along with his wife and child. In 1901, John Cameron, forester plus his wife, children and a boarder inhabited the dwelling.

The year 1901 brought big changes to Largo House, and upgrades to the Eagle Gate Lodge. Owner of Largo Estate George Johnston had died on 29 December 1900. His heir was Charles Julian Maitland Makgill Crichton, who was only 20 years old at the time. In 1901 he reached his majority (turned 21) and in 1902 he married Sybil Twynihoe Erie in London. The ​20 February 1902 piece below from the Leven Advertiser describes this whirlwind period in the heir's life. The newlyweds intended to take up residence at Largo House and set about arranging a number of changes at the estate, including extensions to Eagle Gate Lodge and its connection to the water supply.  The maps above illustrate the expansion of the building, showing difference at the site between 1856 and 1912.

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The Leven Advertiser local news snippet above from 8 May 1902, anticipates the arrival of the recently married couple (in their steam launch Shelda) and reports on the works being undertaken. An update was given, below, in the 14 June 1902 St Andrews Citizen. Although the couple had hoped to moved into Largo House in mid-June, the renovations had overrun. As they were "anxious to be on the coast", they rented a house in Lundin Links short-term.

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However, the pair did not stay in Largo House for long and by 1904 they had relocated to Lathrisk House. Largo House was leased to Benjamin Connell Cox, who remained there for twenty years. In the 1911 census, the Eagle Gate Lodge was occupied by George Smith, estate forester, plus his wife, son and lodger (a teacher). Meanwhile, in 1913, the Maitland Makgill Crichtons left Fife and bought a ranch in California. While developing that property, the Great War broke out. Mr Maitland Makgill Crichton offered his services and was given a Captaincy in the 11th Cameron Highlanders. Later he transferred to the 10th Gordons and was given the rank of Major. He was killed on 25 September 1915 in the advance on Loos. Pictured below, from the Fife News Almanac, his name was later inscribed on the Largo War Memorial.

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The 1921 census recorded Benjamin Cox and family at the 24-room Largo House, while the 3-room Eagle Gate Lodge, was occupied by forester Thomas Berwick, along with his wife and seven children. Following the death of Benjamin Cox, Largo House was rented first to Captain John A Jeffrey and then for a longer spell to maltser John Key Hutchison (until the outbreak of war in 1939). Eagle Gate Lodge meanwhile had a series of occupants including George R Saunders, Joseph Lapworth and D Richardson before being put up for sale in 1947. The advert below appeared in the 14 January 1947 Dundee Courier. 

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