'Homelands Cottage' or 'Gardener's Cottage' was built within the grounds of the circa 1860 villa 'Homelands' on Leven Road, Lundin Links. The building provided the necessary ancillary 'offices' that came with such a substantial property in the second half of the nineteenth century. Originally the structure would have incorporated stables, a gig house and lodgings for the coachman. As recently as 1905, when James Curr owned Homelands, coachman James Pringle lived in the cottage. The 1895 advert above from the Glasgow Herald describes Homelands as available to let with 'stables' and 'cottage'.

However, as the need to keep horses for transport was replaced with the possibility of owning a motor car, the building was converted into a garage plus a home for the gardener (needed to tend the extensive grounds). In 1911, the cottage was occupied by gardener Thomas Forgan, and his wife Mary, their children and Thomas's father William, a widower. The census entry is shown below. The Forgan family lived there for decades, some of the children being born in the cottage. By the 1950s, and throughout that decade, gardener Alexander Dalrymple lived in the cottage with his wife Georgina. He regularly won prizes for his blooms at local flower shows and was also active in the adjacent Lundin Bowling Club. The 1960s saw David Johnston and his wife Grace based at the cottage. If you know more about these or other residents of the Gardener's Cottage over the years, please comment.

There were periods in the history of Homelands, when both the main house and the cottage were unoccupied. For example, in the censuses of 1901 and 1891 both premises were empty. However, in 1881, when Homelands was occupied by retired farmer John Walker, the Gardener's Cottage was home to servants Gosman Graham and Agnes Wilson. Both the 1871 and 1861 census list the houses as unoccupied.

The 1894 map detail above shows the layout of the Gardener's Cottage, with the rectangular footprint that we can see in the photos below. There was a small outbuilding to the south west, remnants of which can also been seen in the images below. A footpath ran from the south west corner of the cottage plot into the north east corner of Homelands. The Gardener's Cottage also looked onto the walled garden that was between Homelands and the main road. The gardens and grounds were an important part of Homelands - in the words of Robert Paxton's great-nephew, Ian Marshall.....

"The house was always full of flowers, at all times of year.  There was a gardener and his family who lived above the garages which had been stables, next to the public Bowling Green.  There were two big greenhouses and a large and productive vegetable garden between the house and the wall along the Leven Road.  There were well-stocked flowerbeds on the south side of the house, and on the east, and a great variety of trees and flowering shrubs.  Potted plants were prepared in the greenhouses and brought into the living room, which was always scented.  There was a grass tennis court on the lawn facing the sea, which was used by the family for many years."

​The cottage, 29 Leven Road, is now in the process of demolition, in order to make way for phase two of the Homelands Trust-run fully accessible self-catering lodges. Since opening in 2014 the Homelands lodges have been in great demand, hence the development of five additional accessible lodges on the Trust-owned land. This new era for Homelands and its cottage is one which the Paxton family, and in particular Isabel Paxton, who left the family home and grounds to charity for the benefit of those living with disability, would have wholeheartedly approved of.
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Ploughing matches have been part of the rural scene in Scotland since the late eighteenth century. At these events ploughmen (or ploughwomen) each plough part of a field and the resulting furrows are judged for neatness and straightness. Since around 1800 the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland has encouraged these matches by offering awards at locally organised events. In Largo Parish, during the second half of the nineteenth century, the Largo District Ploughing Society arranged an annual ploughing match at which a representative from the H.A.S.S. attended and prizes were given.

Largo's society and annual competition originated early in 1846. That year many Largo agricultural folk attended a ploughing match at Winthank. Several Largo ploughmen competed - the winner being Thomas Lindsay of Teuchats. The judges were all Largo farmers. It was resolved on that day to "have an annual meeting for the improvement of ploughing" and the society was formed (see 19 Feb 1846 Fifeshire Journal piece below). 

The table further below shows the details of the annual ploughing matches that followed. The venue rotated around the local farms. Thomas Lindsay was a frequent winner in the early years. Later William Latto and Henry Dalrymple had multiple wins. The number of ploughs competing was typically more than twenty. The month in which the ploughing match was held varied, so some calendar years had two matches while others had none. The matches attracted many spectators despite the fact that often the weather conditions were unfavourable. Mrs Duff's Inn at Upper Largo became the post-match venue of choice, hosting the society's dinner almost every year.

As well as encouraging a competitive spirit among ploughmen, ploughing matches played an important role in developing the skill and technique of ploughing and even stimulated improvements in plough design. The matches usually took place on lea ground (that is open meadow, grass or arable land). The best part of the field is selected and an equal allocation of ground given to each competitor. A peg, bearing a number, is fixed in the ground at the end of each lot, which are as many as ploughs entered in competition. Numbers on slips of paper corresponding to those on the pegs, are drawn by the competing ploughmen, who take the lots as drawn. Plenty time is allowed to finish the ploughing of each lot. Speed is not as important as the quality of execution. Generally, the judges are brought in from outside the immediate locality, so that they can have no personal interest in the exhibition.  

The fact that the annual Largo event started in 1846 and continued for the immediately following decades had much to do with the arrival of Lilias Dundas Calderwood Durham at Largo House in late 1845. She supported the event by giving towards the annual prize money (this was one pound annually as a donation in the 1840s). From the start, and for many years, her overseer, Archibald Smail was the secretary to the society. The 13 November 1845 Northern Warder piece below tells of the "festive rejoicings" upon her arrival at her "patrimonial mansion" and the lighting of a large bonfire at the top of Largo Law to mark the occasion. As well as the main prizes, there was a junior section of the competition for those under 18 years of age.

The main image used on this post is of a ploughing match held locally. Thought to be at Buckthorns around 1910, the photograph shows how well-dressed the horses were. Prizes were often given for the appearance of the horses as well as for the skill of the ploughing. For example a prize might be awarded for best kept harness. Prizes for this tended to be of a practical nature - such as whips or leggings. The Largo District Ploughing Society eventually ceased - to be replaced with organisations that covered a wider geographical area - such as the East of Fife Ploughing Union and later the Fife Ploughing Society. The nature of the ploughing changed over time of course with the increasing mechanisation of farming. However, ploughing matches can still be seen up and down the country - often showcasing vintage machinery.

Lower Largo of the 18th century would have looked quite different to present day village. The painting above gives a good impression of the thatched and pantiled buildings, of various shapes and sizes, constructed from local stone and crowded into the available space. In the background of this view, the former Largo Relief Church would have stood. This was the church that preceded the 1871 former church building on Main Street.

The origins of the Largo Relief Church date back to a vacancy at Largo Kirk in Upper Largo in 1768 which led to the controversial appointment of Reverend David Burn. The portion of the congregation that were strongly opposed to this choice protested by leaving the church. These folk initially met in the open air to worship as an independent group but in 1770 they applied for (and were granted) pulpit supply from the Relief Church of Edinburgh. Soon afterwards, the newly formed congregation were given land from Mr Durham of Largo House upon which to erect a Church. Work soon began on the church building marked 'U.P. Church' on the 1866 map below.

This church would have been a simple rectangular structure, with entrance porch and internal balcony. The reminiscence below (which appeared in the 18 November 1884 Dundee Courier) tells of how the construction of the church was very much a community affair. Materials for the building were gathered from the beach by men, women and children, to supplement the mason's supplies. The total cost came to a modest £18 4s.

The building of the church was swiftly followed by the construction of a manse for the minister, the Reverend Robert Paterson, which still stands at 23 Main Street (pictured above). This would have originally had a thatched roof. A forestair to the rear provided access to the upper floor. For a long time this would have been one of the highest status dwellings in the village. 

The previous post about Largo St David's Church mentioned how, at the time when the old Relief Church building was dismantled, the remains of a former minister had to be removed from the site. This referred to the third minister of Largo Relief Church, James Gardiner, who held the position for 38 years, from 1805 until his death in 1843. He succeeded Rev. James Stuart who died in 1803.

James Gardiner was born around 1782 in Stirlingshire. The year after arriving in Largo, he married Dysart-born Elizabeth Ramsay. The record of their marriage is shown below. Their first child, Catherine, was born in 1807, followed by Robert (1809), Janet (1811), Isabella (1813) and James (1816). At the time of the 1841 census (the only one in which James appears), James is described as a clergyman, living with wife, Elizabeth and two daughters, Catherine and Isabella. Janet had died in 1828 aged 17. 
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During his 38 years as minister Reverend Gardiner would have witnessed many events among his congregation - births, deaths and marriages. He would have presided over many special occasions, including the example above of a soiree held in the church (or 'meeting house') in 1838. As he aged, an assistant and successor was sought and from 1840-41 Rev. Gardiner had a co-minister - Rev. James Hamilton. However, this succession plan did not work out and Hamilton left Largo. Gardiner remained in post until his death at the Relief Manse on 28 February 1843. At his request, he was laid to rest within the church that had been so central to his existence for most of his lifetime. A tribute to him was recorded in the Session Minutes - remarking on his faithful and devoted service:

"He preached, as he felt, he lived as he preached, and he died as he lived in the firm and blessed hope of a glorious resurrection."

Gardiner was followed by Reverend Bryce Kerr who was ordained one month after the death of Gardiner. However, he died only eight months later, at the young age of 27 years (on 25 November 1843). Throughout the 1840s, there had been much discussion around the proposed union between the Relief Church and the United Secession Church. This came to pass in 1847, when the United Presbyterian Church was formed and the church at Lower Largo took on that name. 
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In 1852, the now U.P. Church underwent refurbishment, as the 6 May Fifeshire Journal reported. The building was 80 years old by this point and in spite of these "considerable repairs", including the installation of new iron pillars to support the balcony, the church's days were numbered. Two decades after the repairs, the church building closed for good and was dismantled. The 18 July 1872 Fifeshire Journal used phrases such as "very ugly" and "tumble-down" to describe the old church. However, the fact that it had endured for a century and seen nine ministers serve the community that had played such a key role in its construction makes it a remarkable building in my opinion. 
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​The architect of Largo St David's Church was a prolific designer of churches across Scotland, known to have designed more than eighty of them, among other buildings. However, the Lower Largo church is an example of his work that does not feature in the list of buildings and designs credited to him in the Dictionary of Scottish Architects - here. His role as architect of Largo's former United Presbyterian Church seems to have been missed by archivists. Yet, the Fife Herald (16 March 1871) above tells how Baldie's plans for a "plain, neat and commodious" church were approved by the church committee. The new church would be aligned north-south, in contrast to the east-west facing old church that it would replace (which stood where Downfield now stands).

Baldie had already designed a number of churches for the United Presbyterian Church by 1871, including some in Fife. The new church was opened the following year, as reported in the Fifeshire Journal of 25 July 1872 below. The piece also notes that Baldie's plan had been drawn up "some years ago". No doubt it took time to raise the necessary funds to execute the plan. The main builder of the ediface was Mr Given (an Elie mason), with a number of unnamed experienced workmen taking on the rest of the labour. The remains of a  former minister, Rev. James Gardiner, had to be removed from the old church and reburied in Dundee. The foundation stone of the new building was laid by Provost Patrick Don Swan of Kirkcaldy, a flax merchant, shipowner and shipbuilder.
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Although described as 'plain', the church was adorned with some modest detailing. This included the initials D.M. to denote the then minister, David Malloch, and date 1871. A few basic rose and gothic triangle shaped windows are present (see some of those features in detail below). The fish motifs in the stained glass windows that can be seen today were likely a later addition, as these are not mentioned in the 20 July 1872 Fifeshire Advertiser description of the windows below. 

The most striking feature of the church (certainly when viewed from a distance) was a tall bellcote (now long gone) which once dominated the streetscape. Eventually becoming unsafe, this feature was removed and the bell which it housed moved to the rear of the building after a fundraising drive to pay for the work in the 1960s. The bell was gifted by Alexander Hogg and was more than likely made at the Gorbals Brass and Bell Foundry in Glasgow, which was Scotland's only ever industrial scale bell foundry, casting over 3,000 bells in its 90-year history.

Architect Robert Baldie was born in Stirling in 1824, the same year as David Malloch. Like Malloch, he moved to Glasgow in the 1840s. He was described as a joiner in the 1851 census - just before he married Ann Lennox Fraser the same year. Establishing his architectural practice in the early 1860s, he quickly gained a reputation for designing churches and manses across Scotland including Glasgow, Argyll, Perthshire and Fife. One of his Fife churches was the U.P. Church on Leven's Durie Street (latterly St Peter's R.C. Church). In fact, construction of the Leven and Largo churches overlapped, with the Leven church being completed first and opening in September 1871. Its builder was John Morrison of Glasgow, according to the Fife Free Press  of 23 September 1871. Both Leven and Largo U.P. churches were designed in a Gothic style of architecture and both were compact, street-fronted churches in pre-existing tight spaces.

Indeed, many of Baldie's United Presbyterian churches were built at relatively low cost with minimal detailing and were gothic revival in style. When comparing Baldie's other church designs from a similar date, similarities can be seen. For example, the gothic style main entrance, flanked by small lancet windows and a large gothic arched window above the door. There are variations in the detail of those features and some designs had the addition of a porch, belfry or spire. Clockwise from top left in the composite image below are:

Largo St David's (sketch by Mr J.H. Williams) (1871)
Leven U.P. Church (later known as St John's U.F Church and then St Peter's R.C. Church) (1870)
Carnoustie U.P. Church (1872)
Saltcoats Free Church (1869).

A long (but not comprehensive) list of Baldie's work appears in the Dictionary of Scottish Architects. Some of his churches were at the grander end of the scale, reflecting the wealth of the congregations which commissioned them. Below for example is Govanhill U.P. Church and further below the spired pair of churches - St Kessog's in Calendar (left, which later became a Tourist Information Centre) and Pollockshields Church (right).

Robert Baldie did design buildings other than churches and manses. His largest commission was the impressive frontage for the Carron Company Iron Works in Falkirk (1876) with ornamental clock tower above an archway entrance (see further below). The crow-stepped tower was originally the centrepiece for a 53-bay frontage, behind which were offices, a warehouse and a workshop. Only the archway and clocktower still survives today. He also undertook some overseas works, largely connected with church mission work. He designed schools, churches, hospitals and houses in places such as Spain, China and various parts of Africa.

While researching the history of South Feus, one name that cropped up frequently in the early history of the street was Hogg. Alexander Hogg (1807-1870) was a village blacksmith for many years. He was the ninth of thirteen children of Alexander Hogg (manufacturer associated with the linen trade) and his wife Elizabeth Grieve. Alexander the blacksmith lived and ran his business at the west end of South Feus and round the corner next to the hotel (see 1854 map below where his blacksmith shop is circled). This was an ideal location for such a business - right on the main routes to St Andrews and the East Neuk from Leven and close to Largo House.

With the horse being the essential means of transport, the blacksmith was a key village craftsman. Aside from the manufacture of horse shoes, the blacksmith's forge would produce a wide range of implements for domestic, agricultural and other use. Many blacksmiths were also wheelwrights. Blacksmith's shops often descended from father to son but this was not the case with Alexander Hogg. His eldest and only surviving son, Alexander, had an alternative career in mind. So after Alexander senior's death in 1870, the family premises passed on to his daughter and son-in-law and were repurposed into a joiner's workshop.

Alexander's middle daughter of three (Elizabeth Hogg) married Peter Broomfield the joiner. Elizabeth had left Largo to become a domestic servant (cook) in Edinburgh's New Town and likely met the Midlothian-born joiner during her time there. The pair relocated to Largo and began the joinery enterprise in Kirkton - the legacy of which continues to this day (there is still a joiner's workshop on the site (see image further below)).

So, what path did Alexander Wallace Hogg take? His career choice led to success but took him away from Largo. However, he never forgot his roots. By the time of the 1851 census, aged 16, Alexander was working as a grocer's assistant in Newburgh. From there he went on to serve an apprenticeship with a grocer’s firm in Perth. Later, he was then engaged by the firm of ‘Messrs John Beattie & Co.’ sugar brokers of Glasgow. In 1856 he married Agnes Turnbull and in 1858, he formed a partnership with John Myles to trade as commission and produce brokers. At the time of the 1861 census Alexander was a 'sugar merchant' living in Hospital Street, Govan, and he had two sons, the eldest also named Alexander Wallace Hogg. When John Myles died in 1867 at the young age of 33, the business partnership was dissolved (see notice below from the Dundee Courier of 30 August 1867).

By 1871, the family had grown to six sons and one daughter and they were now living at Elgin Villas in Shawlands and had three domestic servants. Two years earlier, Alexander had created a new firm in the name of ‘Alexander Hogg & Co,’ based at 60 Virginia Street, Glasgow. This firm would become recognised as one the of the most extensive in its dealing in British and foreign refined sugars. In 1872, Alexander Hogg acquired the Dellingburn Sugar Refinery in Greenock and the business was conducted under the firm of ‘Hogg, Wallace & Co.'. The family home in Shawlands was named 'Largo Villa' in recognition of Alexander's birthplace. Now number 1331 Pollockshaws Road, the house as it is today is shown below.

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Greenock at the time had a number of sugar refineries. Along with shipbuilding and wool manufacturing, sugar refining was a significant employer in the town. Greenock is the birthplace Abram Lyle of Tate and Lyle - which became the most successful of the refineries. Alexander Hogg's firm was successful too and in 1880 he was able to purchase a beautiful marine summer residence known as Ardenlee set in four acres near Dunoon (see advertisement from 28 April 1880 Glasgow Herald). Just like another 'Largo Villa' owned by a native of Largo, this building later became a care home. In the census of 1881, only the youngest child, Agnew, was at home with Alexander and Agnes at Largo Villa, along with three domestic servants. The older children were all staying at Ardenlee with an aunt and other servants.

Over the years, Alexander hadn't forgotten his family in Largo and the place of his birth remained important to him. In 1872, he presented the congregation of Largo St David's Church (then the United Presbyterian Church) with a bell to hang in the small belfry atop the south gable, upon completion of the new church. In 1879, upon the death of Thomas Hogg of Lundin Mill, he had paid back the amount that the Largo Parochial Board had spent on the care of his late uncle (see piece below from 13 March Fife Herald).
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