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Feuars' Green

29/9/2020

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View above from Cardy House looking east towards Temple, with bleaching green (Feuars' Green or Temple Green) in foreground to the right (Canmore collection).
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The previous post looked at the two Durham Schools in Lower Largo and how the old schoolhouse at the Temple car park was superseded by the later school that would become the Durham Hall. The 1836 single room school was left as a ruin for decades until - exactly a century after it was first erected - the remains were cleared away. In the run up to that, it was becoming increasingly clear that the Feuars' Green or Temple Green was needing a bit of attention. Having been neglected for a while, things came to a head after winter storms took their toll on the seafront here.

In 1935 the Leven Advertiser of 23 April reported, under the headline "Havoc on Foreshore", that "time and tide have played havoc with the seats which were erected a few years ago on the foreshore at the Temple, Largo, by the Improvements Committee. During the summer season these seats were a popular rendezvous with the older generation."

This prompted efforts to renew and improve the 'vacant' ground. Discussion ensued around the possibilities for enhancing the space for locals and visitors alike. Later that year the suggestion of creating a children's playground or a putting green on the green created much animation among the locals. As the piece in the 19 Oct 1935 Fife Free Press below indicates, folk were keen to point out that nothing could be done without the unanimous agreement of the green feuars (who had collectively been given the ground many years earlier for use as a bleaching green - see image at the top of the post where white cloth can be seen drying in the corner of the green). Times had changed and no longer was the green needed for bleaching. Its main use had become a convenient 'lying up' place for fishing and pleasure boats off season. A committee was duly established to explore the possibilities for the green. 
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The above update appeared in the 13 June 1936 Fife Free Press, showing that improvement plans were taking shape. By the September, the plans were being executed. The Leven Advertiser (29 Sept) updates on the works to level the ground, remove the ruins of the old Durham School, erect fencing and build a brick wall along the south edge of the green. The old stones from the school building were in fact used to build up the foreshore in order to protect against further storm damage.

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Although the green was tidied up, neither the putting green nor children's playpark ideas came to pass. The space is rarely referenced in the later newspaper archives. A rare example from 1937 tells that a Sunday School picnic party from Leslie based themselves at Temple Green. The storage of boats there continued and of course with the rise of the motor car, it became primarily a car park. The brick wall was at some point replaced by the neat stone wall that bounds the car park to the south today. The foreshore and road (created in 1903) to the south remain intact, perhaps in part due to the old stones from the original Durham School.

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The Durham Schools

23/9/2020

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The image above, which appears in the book 'Seatoun of Largo' by Ivy Jardine, shows what is now the Temple Car Park. The Cardy Net Factory can be seen behind the many boats pulled up from the beach (including what might be the Semiquaver - the largest boat, resting adjacent to the factory). To the right and slightly elevated is a roofless old building - a former school. The 1853 Ordnance Survey name book helpfully describes the school as follows:

"Durham's School: A school in the hamlet of Temple, erected by subscription in 1836. The teacher is a female who receives a salary from Mrs Durham of £20 per ann. also school fees. It is attended by about 60 scholars."

This provides a definite date of 1836 for the origin of the school and tells us that this was a 'subscription school' i.e. the school was organised and governed locally and parents paid a fee for children's attendance. Like many village schools of the time, it was single roomed and had only one teacher (in 1853 this was Miss Caroline Spence). Also mentioned in the 1853 name book are the other local schools, namely: the Emsdorf School (built 1821 and also attended by around 60 pupils) and the old Kirkton School (which was attended by around 150 scholars at the time).

The newspaper item below from the 18 May 1837 Fifeshire Journal confirms the 1836 origin and tells us that General Durham was actively involved in the school's establishment. This is General James Durham of Largo House (1754-1840). It also mentions that the teacher in 1837 was a Mr Wilson. Interestingly, the piece notes that the establishment of the school had been resisted by many.
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General Durham died at Largo House in 1840 and was succeeded in his Largo estate by his nephew Thomas Calderwood Durham of Polton. The latter died only two years later, also at Largo House, and was succeeded by his brother Admiral Sir Philip Charles Henderson Calderwood Durham. Philip died in 1845 in Naples and his estates at Largo and Polton passed to his niece Lilias Dundas Calderwood Durham (the daughter of Thomas Calderwood Durham). She was the widow of Robert Dundas of Arniston, who had died in 1838.

Unsurprisingly, as decades passed, the small subscription school became inadequate for the needs of Lower Largo. A site on Donaldson's Wynd was selected for a bigger, more substantially-built school (see map below from 1866 which features both schools). The 1861 census for Lower Largo lists two school buildings: a 'subscription school (empty)' and a 'female school'. A newspaper piece (see further below) from 15 June 1910 Leven Advertiser states that "the Durham school was founded in 1859 by Mrs L. D. C. Durham". Mrs Durham spent time at Largo House between 1845 and 1868 and took a great interest in the local community and especially in education. In her later years, she sold the Largo estate to William Johnson of Lathrisk in 1868 and settled at Polton. She died in 1883 in Lanzo, Italy.
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The 1862 Westwood's Directory notes within the Largo section that "a new female industrial school" had been built in Lower Largo, with a Miss Robertson in charge. This new school also became known as the Durham School. Mrs Dundas Durham (1799-1883) is pictured below (courtesy of National Portrait Gallery, London). The marble memorial tablet to her within Largo Church is also shown below. 
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The Durham school remained in active use long after the era of the Durham family in Largo. While control of the schools at Kirkton and Lundin Mill transferred to Largo School Board in 1872 with the passing of the Education Act, the Durham school stayed under the control of the Kirk for many years thereafter. The 'Largo Village Book' of 1932, in its section about schools, after mentioning the schools in Kirkton and Lundin Mill, says:

"There is yet another school in Donaldson's Wynd. This is just above Lower Largo, known as the Durham School. This did not pass out of the Church's hands nearly as soon but remained under the management of the Kirk Session till after 1892. A lot of children used to go to the Durham School. There was always a school-mistress there and latterly the younger children went. A few years ago, however, it was closed as a regular school and has now been fitted up for classes, and here the Continuation Classes are held."

A footnote further explains that it was 1895 that the Kirk Session ceased to manage this school. The reason that it did so was due to the need for extensive repairs and improvements for which the Kirk Session had no funds. The Largo Village Book also tells us that the school evolved from a regular school into a continuation school earlier in the twentieth century. The newspaper archives tell us that the building was altered in 1911 to improve heating, lighting and use of space, plus fit it up for cookery and laundry lessons. The advert above from the 28 September 1911 Leven Advertiser lists some of the continuation classes available following the building's refurbishment.

​Below is a photograph of the Durham school (now Durham Hall) in the mid-1970s. Now 160 years old, the building is still serving the local community well.
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Donaldson's Wynd

16/9/2020

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The road annotated on the aerial photo above is Durham Wynd, which runs down from the A915 close to Largo House to Lower Largo's Main Street near the Orry. Some folks will still know this road as 'Donaldson's Wynd', as that was how this road was referred to for around a century. Until recent decades there were almost no buildings on either side of this road - it was bounded by fields on both sides. As such, references to it in historical records are scarce. Below is a rare early reference to Donaldson's Wynd from the 4 April 1878 Fife Herald.

Occasional references to Donaldson's Wynd continue to appear in the newspaper archives from then up until the late 1950s. The alternative name of 'Durham Wynd' eventually began to appear in parallel, especially from around 1929, when some houses were build adjacent to it (see example further below from the 16 March 1929 St Andrews Citizen).

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​In fact, as far back as 1892 the dual name of the road was acknowledged - see below from the 17 September 1892 St Andrews Citizen. This piece calls the road "Donaldson's or the Durham School Wynd". Of course, it makes sense for the road to be referred to as 'Durham School Wynd' as the new Durham School was built on it circa 1860 (more on that in a future post). But where might the original name of 'Donaldson' have come from?

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A likely origin of the name Donaldson's Wynd would be that it was named after David Donaldson (or one of his forebears). Like many of the inhabitants of early 19th century Lower Largo he was a hand loom weaver but crucially he was one of the few inhabitants to actually live on this road. The only houses located on it then were those found at the foot of the wynd close to the Orry. David Donaldson lived in one of these. David also held an official position of importance within the community. His name appeared on advertisements for teaching staff at the original Durham School (located at the Temple car park). Applicants were to apply directly to him, suggesting that he was perhaps clerk to the school board or equivalent body. Notices below from 14 March 1839 Fifeshire Journal and 27 May 1841 Fife Herald respectively provide examples.
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David Donaldson died in 1852 aged 78. Perhaps when the new Durham School was erected on the wynd a few years later, close to his former home, a name was needed and his was chosen. Whether the wynd already bore his name before his death or whether it was named in his memory is unknown but the name certainly stuck long after his passing. If you know any more about the origins of the name 'Donaldson's Wynd' please comment.

The wynd is quite steep at its lower end and many of the mentions of it in the newspaper archives relate to accidents that have taken place there. A few examples of these are given below...
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Above is from the 24 October 1888 Fife Herald
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Above is from 27 June 1889 Fifeshire Journal
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Above is from 19 August 1914 Courier
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Anyway, over the last century, the road has become increasingly built up on both sides as the aerial view at the start of this post shows. Successive housing developments over several decades have seen it transform into something that would be quite unrecognisable to David Donaldson. In spite of the change to 'Durham Wynd' over time, the Donaldson name lives on both in the memories of many and in the name of the small housing development at the top end of the road - Donaldson's Court.
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Reverend David Malloch - 1860s Carte de Visite

9/9/2020

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Image credit: Ron Cosens    (www.cartedevisite.co.uk)

A previous post has covered in some detail the life of Reverend David Malloch, the long-serving minister of Largo St David's Church. The only photograph of this man that I had ever seen was the one of him as an older, white-haired, experienced clergyman. However, the above image of a younger Rev. Malloch has emerged from an unlikely source. Showing David as an eager-looking, new minister, this 'carte de visite' or CDV recently turned up from Canada. The image was captured by photographer John Patrick - the rear of the CDV bears his name and original Leven address of 71 High Street.

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We know that Patrick moved from 71 High Street in 1866, so the image certainly predates that. Patrick was already active in photography in the late 1850s but I would imagine that this photograph was captured soon after Malloch first took up his position in Lower Largo in 1860. That would place him in his mid-late 30s in the photograph. Perhaps the CDV (of which multiple copies would have been made) was produced both to send to those that knew him from his past in Lanarkshire and Glasgow, as well as to give to new contacts that he would be making as he established himself in Fife.

​In fact, it is via his roots in New Lanark that this particular CDV came to be in Canada. It was part of a collection of around eighty cards in an album belonging to a family who had lived alongside the Mallochs in Caithness Row, New Lanark, in the 1840s, when David worked as a cotton carder in the mill. These neighbours' descendants emigrated to Canada in 1927, as did many other Lanarkshire families around this time, and the album went with them. It is extremely fortunate that this CDV had its subject 
written on it, otherwise, I would not have been alerted to its existence. 

Below is a comparison of the young and the older David Malloch photographs. His facial features are unchanged and he clearly retained his thick wavy hair into older age. The St Andrews Citizen on 4 July 1896 commented that he was "conspicuous throughout the parish by his locks and shaven face, which seemed to savour more of art than the pulpit". 

​The Largo community would have seen this man evolve from the youthful, dark-haired incomer in 1860 into the mature and seasoned minister, over the 36 years that he "went out and in among them, speaking words in season to the weary, and comforting the afflicted". He would have officiated at many a wedding and funeral, delivered hundreds of sermons and given both sympathy and encouragement to people of all ages. The memorial to him within St David's Church, placed in 1900, reflects the esteem in which he was held by his congregation and beyond.

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With many thanks to both Ron Cosens and Linda Moore
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Modernisation of Central Garage

6/9/2020

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The above announcement appeared in the 6 May 1959 Leven Mail, to share the news that Saunders and Wood had taken over Upper Largo's Central Garage from Harris and Sons (the family who had run it for around four decades). Later the same year, the advert below from 17 June 1959 Leven Mail tells us that the garage offered 'motor sales and services' and that a 'six-seater car' was available for hire.
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However, in 1965, plans were drawn up for the modernisation of Central Garage, which was now in the ownership of  the Harley brothers. Above is the proposed front elevation, featuring new tall windows on the right that would allow a clear view into the car showroom for passers by. The floor plan below has the 'car showroom' marked on the right hand side as well as an angled 'showspace' at the far left, adjacent to the concrete forecourt. The modern garage lasted around three decades before its collapse and replacement with housing.

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Upper Largo Shops and Residents

2/9/2020

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As a follow-up to the post about Central Garage, the above postcard image (circa 1905) of the east end of Upper Largo's Main Street shows the site of the garage prior to its establishment. The house on the extreme right is where the Harris family lived before moving to Manelian in the mid-1920s. Next door to the left of that are buildings that were also owned by James Harris. These included a laundry, a draper's shop and a saddler's business around this time.

Meanwhile, on the left hand side of the road are an interesting set of businesses with some legible signage visible (see enlarged image below). On the far left of the image is a single storey cottage with a sign on the roof that reads CYCLISTS REST REFRESHMENTS. This may have been associated with the grocer shop which was located in the building around this time. The rising popularity of cycling, as well as the proximity to T.G. Wishart's cycle maker and repair workshop, made it a good business decision to target cyclists in need of refreshment. 

Next door, where the group of children are standing, was Peter Cowie's chemist. Then we come to Robert Melville the plumber (whose sign is visible high on the side of his shop). Beyond that, is Thomas Black shoemaker - some of his signage is still visible on the building today. The final building which can only just be seen at the end of this side of the street, with the group of three people standing by the door (one in a long striped apron), is the butcher. At the time this was run by William Bousie Simpson. Perhaps it is the man himself that stands at the door wearing his butcher's apron.

Clearly everyone was aware of the presence of the photographer when this view was captured. Perhaps it was in fact Peter Cowie the chemist who was responsible for the photograph, as he had a darkroom and sold photography supplies. Maybe he invited his neighbours to be part of the scene. Taken in winter with bare trees and well-wrapped up children, the inclusion of so many local people in the image really adds to its historic value.
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    This blog is about the history of the villages of Lundin Links, Lower Largo and Upper Largo in Fife, Scotland. Comments and contributions from readers are very welcome!

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