Highclere Castle is a country house in Hampshire, best-known today as the set for the drama 'Downtown Abbey'. In 1838, the 3rd Earl of Carnarvon commissioned architect Charles Barry (who was also working on the Houses of Parliament at the time) to transform the Georgian House he had inherited at Highclere into a spectacular Italianate Castle. The work was carried out during the 1840s.

However, there is also a 'Highclere' in Lundin Links at 25 Hillhead Lane. The story of how this house got its distinctive name starts with Andrew Peebles, who was born in Lundin Mill in 1836 to James Peebles and Mary Grieve. Like most of their Emsdorf Street neighbours, the whole family were linen hand loom weavers. In the census of 1851, 14-year-old Andrew was described as a weaver, as were his two older sisters and his 12-year-old brother - just like their father.

However, hand loom weaving was on the decline and before long all the Peebles children had found alternative employment. Andrew - described as a "strapping youth" - found employment with the factor's office of the Largo Estate. This was in the days of Lady Dundas (Lillias Calderwood Durham, wife of Robert Dundas). By the 1861 census, Andrew was working as a forester on the Arniston estate in Midlothian which was also owned by Lady Dundas. The move to Arniston was one made by several Largo folk including gardener Colin McTaggart and William Tivendale who was also a forester, a former weaver and a cousin of Andrew Peebles. 

Saturday 19th November 1949 saw the opening of Ellen Batty's Drapery Shop at 35 Main Street, Upper Largo. The shop sold clothing for ladies, gents and children, as well as toys and general 'fancy goods'. The shop building had already existed for decades by this time, having for a long time housed a butcher with slaughterhouse attached. 

Records of a 'flesher' at the premises go back to at least the 1850s when Alexander McGregor ran the business with wife Isabella Morrison and her brother Robert. By 1881, Alexander's son Andrew McGregor had taken over, working alongside his widowed mother. However, ten years later, it was another son - Alexander - who was running the business with his mother.

Around the turn of the century the business was taken over by William Bousie Simpson (himself the son of a butcher) who ran it for decades until his death in 1932. William's wife was Helen Henderson - hence the adjacent house was name 'Helenslea'. Helen moved to Durham Terrace in Lower Largo after WIlliam died (also calling her house there Helenslea) and her son James took over as butcher in Upper Largo for a spell. In the late 1940s, Mr R.T. Walker was butcher here but in 1948 and again in April of 1949 the family were hit by two tragic events and the butcher business ceased.
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Largo must have had its fair share of interesting visitors passing through over the years. The photograph above features a particularly colourful character standing outside the entrance to Cardy House. The undated image, held in the St Andrews University Image Bank simply states "Print depicting a woman with a monkey. The monkey is sitting on top of a horse. The back is labelled 'Italian woman, name is Angelino?'".

Perhaps she was there as part of a larger troupe of entertainers - maybe when the 'shows' were in town. The image below shows precisely where this unusual photograph was captured, with 123 Main Street in the background.
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'Downfield' is the brick building in the centre of the image above. It stands between Largo St David's Church and Court House and is in fact on the site of the original church. Initially known as 'Largo Relief Church', the original building was erected in 1771. The congregation at that time was largely made up of folk that had previously attended church in Kirkton of Largo but had broken away in protest over the appointment of a new minister. As the 'Historical Sketch' of Largo St David's Church states:
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"Those who left Largo Kirk met for worship in the open air until Mr Durham himself granted them a site on which to erect a Church. This site is next to the present building in the area now occupied by "Downfield"."

This church was in use for a century before the present church building was erected alongside it in 1871-72. The original church was demolished and the plot lay empty for over a decade before the five-dwelling building now known as Downfield was built.  The annotated maps below show the changes to the site over the period from around 1850 to 1910.

The original proprietor of Downfield seems to have been David Gillies the net manufacturer, as it is his name that appears on the 1895 valuation roll as owning the building. Interestingly, the brick building has echoes of the Cardy Net House - particularly the chimney design. David Gillies is known to have designed and built Cardy House and Cardy Works himself with assistance from his joiner siblings. He is listed in the Dictionary of Scottish Architects. There seems to be a good chance that he was the architect of Downfield and recreated the brick work style of Cardy Works.

One of the early tenants was fisherman John Bisset. He was living in one of the dwellings at the time of the 1891 census with his wife Helen (nee Horne) and their daughters Grace and Georgina. In 1891 the building had not yet acquired the name Downfield. By the time of the 1900 valuation roll John Bisset had become the proprietor of Downfield and the name of the property had been established. Presumably he had purchased the building from David Gillies at some point after his career change from fisherman to mine manager at Teasses Colliery.

When Mr Bisset died in 1931, the St Andrews Citizen noted that he owned an extensive poultry farm at Buckthorns and was "a native of Largo" who "spent his early years as a fisherman before going to Teuchats Farm, where he also managed the Lime Works. He was for fourteen years in charge of the pumps at Durie Colliery. He left Teuchats and entered upon the tenancy of Buckthorns Farm in 1914. Mr Bisset took a keen interest in the development of Largo as a summer resort and was an active member of the committee for the improvement of the pier." 

The name 'Downfield' could possibly have come from the Downfield estate between Kettle and Montrave which also had collieries and lime works, which perhaps John Bisset once had a connection to. If anyone can confirm the origin of the name - please comment. Below is an advert for the sale of Downfield in 1946 (30 October Leven Mail) which describes the layout and facilities at that time.
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Continuing on from the previous post, let's compare the 1885 parade route (on the day of the unveiling of the Robinson Crusoe statue) with the present day equivalent views. Above shows the 'Labour Always Conquers' banner which was situated at Largo St David's Church (seen on the left edge of the images). The buildings on the right (Comely Bank and Balfour Cottage) are unchanged. However, on the left side, after the church, a new addition has appeared since 1885, in the form of 'Downfield'. This building contained five dwellings, three on the ground floor and two on the first floor, and was constructed c1890. Beyond that is Court House, then Doctor's Wynd, Goodsir House and Bonny Bay House and Bakery.
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The next arch was sited just before arriving at the statue itself and bore the motto "Robinson Crusoe now we see good and great at last". The images above feature on the left 93-97 Main Street with the Crusoe Buildings beyond. On the extreme right is 'Seabeach' followed by 'Balguthrie'. The evergreen-covered platform can be seen on the centre left of the 1885 photograph. This is where the unveiling ceremony took place and where many speeches were given on 11 December that year.
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Moving east beyond the statue, the next arch and banner were positioned just before Cardy House and the tight corner down to Cardy Works. Naturally this one stated "May Cardy Works Flourish". The gate pier of Craigiebank is on the far right with a weaver's cottage beyond. On the left side of the street are the buildings of the former Loomshop Studio and then 'East End Cottages' or 'Braehead' (now known as Cardy Crossing Cottage). The trees behind the wall of Cardy House today look like they could be the original ones seen on the old picture.

Finally, once the ceremony around the unveiling of the Robinson Crusoe statue was complete and the dignitaries were ready to set off back to Largo Station, a final message hung stating "Will you no come back again". This comparison photo is perhaps the view that reflects the most change over time. The boats hauled up on the left hand side are now replaced with cars. The viaduct no longer has railway traffic travelling over it. The mill building seen below the viaduct arch is gone, along with the footbridge seen in front of it in 1885 (crowded with people for the special occasion). The Railway Inn is ever present though and was in the hands of the Bunns in 1885. The whole affair must have been quite a spectacle and wonderful to witness, although strange that a cold and short December day was chosen for such a red letter day for the community.

Above was how the 16 December 1885 Fife Herald described the day of the unveiling of the statue of Robinson Crusoe on Lower Largo's Main Street.  The piece continued:

"On the other arches were displayed such mottoes as "Weel may the Boatie Row" - a song which has special application to Largo; "Labour always conquers"; "Robinson Crusoe now we see, good and great at last"; and "May Cardy Works Flourish". A temporary platform, covered with evergreens, was erected in front of "Crusoe's Cottage" and there the ceremony of the day took place".

Such a special occasion demanded the presence of a high class photographer and John Terras of Markinch provided this service. Many images of the day have been preserved but this post and the next focus on a series of images of the parade route and its arches and mottoes. What has changed along the route since 1885?

There are a few differences at the very start of the processional route. Notably, the boats once frequently hauled up onto the street have long since been replaced by cars. The house through the archway has undergone significant remodelling. The convenience shop sits where the garden of Alexandra House once was. In spite of these changes, however, it's still a recognisable view - mainly thanks to the Crusoe Hotel on the right hand side and the slipway down to the beach.

The next 'then and now' location shows the old manse at 23 Main Street on the left while the two-storey building on the right (framed by the arch) is 'Berwick View'. Here was the business of Alexander Simpson, who was a shoemaker in 1881 but a grocer by 1891. His shop sign is visible in the 1885 photograph. Inch View Cottage lies beyond that on the right. In the old image, Butters Buildings can be seen through the arch on the left (lighter coloured building). The people standing watching the photographer include men, apron-ed women, children and babies in arms.

​A little further east from the first location, another banner was positioned. This time at the bend in the street where White Cottage sits on the right. On the left is the gable end of 57 Main Street (then known as No 1 Seaview). On the 1885 photo, in the centre behind the arch is a quaint old house that was known as 'The Castle'. Little did the occupants of this little house know then that this building's days were numbered. Several years later this property was swept away in a violent storm. 

A severe north-easterly gale intensified on 18 October 1898. The Scotsman that day described how the sea rose to a "tremendous height" and how huge waves had breached the sea wall at Kirkcaldy. The next day's Courier spoke of havoc on Kirkcaldy High Street which was "strewn with large blocks of stone, wood and other debris". Several vessels had been driven ashore along the east coast and it was even said that trains on the Forth Bridge were in danger of being blown from the rails. The St Andrews Citizen of 22 October had the headline "The Terrible Gale: Great Destruction of Property on the Fife Coast" and noted that "a few of the houses close to the sea have washed away all together". The shops at 52-56 Main Street were not built until 1887 and so do not feature in the parade photograph.

​To be continued.....

This beautiful letterhead is for the Lundin Links business of Adam & Co. Painters, Paperhangers and Decorators.

John Adam was born in Lundin Mill on 12 August 1872 to Agnes Adam. His birth was attended by Margaret Bethune and is recorded in her register of deliveries. Around twenty years later, John established his Lundin Mill house painting business, following spells of apprenticeship in Leven, Dumbarton and London. By 1901 he was an employer and he and his mother were living at his uncle's house (George Adam) which was called 'Bridge Place' but is now 2 Largo Road. His business was based at Milburnlea (4 Largo Road) next door.

In 1909 he married Christina Smith of Balmullo at her home - Upper Wellfield in Balmullo. Christina was the daughter of a stone mason. A witness at the marriage was James Dallas (a relative of John's and a stone mason from Lundin Mill). It seems likely then that the pair met through John's work as a painter and his connections with others in the building trade. ​John and Christina named their house, at the junction of Mill Wynd and Largo Road, 'Wellfield' after her former home. 

As well as building up a large painting business with several employees, John Adam was ​Chair of Largo Parish Council for six years (and a member for twelve years) plus was a member of Fife County Council. He and his wife had four children - Isabella, Agnes, John and David. Christina died in 1929. John (pictured below) died suddenly in 1932 aged 59. At the time of his death the Scotsman newspaper (27 May) noted that John "took a great interest in Largo Parish and especially in the harbour improvements there". Meanwhile the Dundee Evening Telegraph mentioned that "for over a score of years he was a member of the Golf Club Council and held for considerable periods the convenership of the Green and House Committee. He was also a keen curler".
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The ornate letterhead reflects a business that was doing very well in an expanding village. Note the detail below, with the selection of fine brushes and the palette within the design suggesting a high level of skill. As a master painter of the period, work may have included the mixing of bespoke paints, adding ornate decorative features, sign-writing and gilding. Notice also the 'telegraphic address' - showing that this letterhead predates the widespread use of telephone.

​Back circa 1910, when the shops at the west end of Emsdorf Street were still relatively new and deliveries were still made by horse and cart, someone decided to capture on film a fairly typical delivery to Brown's Fruiterer and Florist. Making the delivery are Robert James Dall and his son William Richard Dall. Robert had been gardener at Strathairly for several years by this time and probably regularly brought some of his produce to Brown's.

The reason for the photograph could well have been because the Dalls were about to emigrate to Canada. Father Robert travelled first in the November of 1910. He established himself in Vancouver. In 1911 16-year-old son William, along with brother Robert, set sail from Glasgow to join their father. William was described on the passenger list as a gardener. The following year Robert's wife Elinor and daughter Grace also emigrated to Canada. The family remained there for the rest of their lives.

Receiving the delivery, and standing in the doorway of the fruit shop is more than likely Alice Brown - niece of Jimmie Brown whose name is above the door and who ran a market garden at Hatton Law. Alice would have been aged around 21 at the time of this photograph. Next door to the left are the shops of the Young family (a stationers and newsagent shop to the left and an outfitter to the right). These shops were owned by Christina Young. The young male and female posing outside these shops are likely two of her children. She had two daughters, Janet and Annie and one son, John. The three would have been aged around 18, 15 and 16 respectively at this time. All of these shop keepers are pictured below in more detail. Note the collarless shirts in the outfitter's window and the notice advertising the Pierrots in the fruit shop window.

The Dalls must have taken this photograph with them as they embarked upon their new lives in Canada in order to remember their old life back in Largo. And fortunately for us today it provides a little insight into typical daily life back in 1910 Lundin Mill.

By way of a follow-up to the previous post about Somerville the Grocer, it's worth highlighting a little piece of architectural detail that is very familiar, as we walk over it all the time. The Leven Road shop still has its original panel of prismatic lights on the pavement in front of the shop window. These were designed to allow sunlight into the cellar below before the days of affordable electric lights. The prism shape on the underside (see examples below) allows light to be reflected sideways under the main building rather than just straight down.  It may also have been that goods could be delivered through the panels flaps (see image further below). 

The Lundin Links panels were manufactured by T. Hyatt & Co of Farringdon Road London. Over time some prisms have become cracked and others damaged through wear and tear - being replaced with tiles and cement as the natural light is no longer relied upon to illuminate the space below. The prismatic light concept featured in many architectural products of the time - some examples of which are illustrated in the advert below.
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The above circa 1907 photograph is a fairly early image of Somerville the grocer on Leven Road, Lundin Links. However, by the time this photograph was taken the name above the door had already changed from 'J. Somerville' to 'Andw. A. Somerville' as father (John) had recently handed over the reins to son (Andrew). The image below shows the original sign. In fact the young man in the door of the older image below could well be Andrew Allan Somerville himself as he was born in 1884 and so would be in his late teens at the time of this picture.

Andrew started work in his father John's grocer shop at Leven's Shorehead in 1898 at the age of 14. The following year John had plans drawn up for a new shop in Lundin Links and it opened in 1900. Andrew moved from the Leven shop to the Lundin Links one on 1 June 1900. When he reached the age of 21, he applied for his wine merchant license and the name above the shop was changed to his own (in 1905). Andrew held that license for 52 years, until he retired in 1957. Andrew was in the Black Watch volunteers between 1914 and 1918 drilling every Sunday morning on the Lundin Ladies Golf Course and was an A.R.P. warden and head fire master during the Second World War. He also took a keen interest in golf, curling and bowling and was a senior elder at Largo Parish Church.

An image of John Somerville's Leven shop can be seen further down this post. The Somervilles have also been covered in an earlier post on this site. The Somerville name remained above the Lundin Links shop into the 1980s - well after the death of Andrew in 1961. After a spell in use as an office, the shop premises has recently reopened as an up-cycling shop. The shop (pictured at the foot of this post) is now called 'Hamish and Baby Monkey' and is well worth a visit.