VINTAGE LUNDIN LINKS AND LARGO
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Victoria House

4/12/2020

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The image above of 'Victoria House', as it was then styled, dates to around 1907. Described as a "boarding establishment" of the "most modern" kind in the Fifeshire Guide advertisement below. Occupying the "best site in Lundin Links", the features to note were the "Public, Dining and Smoke Rooms. Lounge, Billiard Room and South Verandah". The latter can be seen to the right of the building above on both the first and second floors.

The gardens appear to be fairly newly laid out in fine symmetrical form and neatly lined with young trees on either edge. The building stands quite alone with none of the nearby Victoria Road houses yet in place, nor the south side of Crescent Road. The nearest houses behind Victoria House at the time of this photograph were the 1850s 'cottages' on the north side of Crescent Road. Elphinstone is visible to the left and on the right are the school house and Oldfield (then called Bayview Cottage). The map further below shows the direction from which the image was taken and the absence of neighbouring buildings.

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​The location of Victoria House was ideal for a boarding house - close to the station, the golf course and the beach, plus right next to the iron bridge over the railway line. Walter Horne feued this plot and built Victoria House. He continued to own it until selling to Johnston Wright Swan around 1923. Initially, however, the boarding house was let and run by Miss Agnes Brown. Victoria House went through a number of subtle name changes over the decades from Victoria House to Victoria Boarding House to Victoria Private Hotel, before becoming Victoria Court flats in the early 1970s.

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Alexander Thomas Assafrey (1844-1930)

27/11/2020

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Summer visitors have long been a feature of Largo and Lundin Links. In the past, the villages were transformed during the summer season, as boarding houses filled and houses were let out. Many visitors were regulars that returned year after year, getting to know one another and the locals. Summer visitors put on concerts and raised money for the improvement of local facilities. Following the rapid expansion of Lundin Links, the village became hugely fashionable with city dwellers from both Glasgow and Edinburgh. Some prominent and interesting characters from both cities brought their families to Largo Bay to enjoy the sea air, the bathing, golf, tennis and entertainment.

One of the regular faces for a spell was A.T. Assafrey, pictured above. Born in 1844 in Estonia, son of a flour miller, Jacob Assafrey and his wife Anna. He qualified as a master confectioner in Talinn, Estonia (which at the time was Reval, Livonia, Russia) before emigrating to Scotland. ​Initially he found employment with Ferguson and Forrester, caterers. The advert for their business below from the 27 Dec 1856 Ardrossan and Saltcoats Herald shows that confectionery was part of their offering. 
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The 1871 census finds Alexander as one of five lodgers of various nationalities at a dwelling on Hospital Street Govan. His occupation was described as a confectioner. The business that he set up around this time was styled as a 'chocolatier et confiseur' at 171 Sauchiehall Street and was "an early representative of foreign sophistication in the city" according to the book 'Tea and Taste: The Glasgow Tea Rooms 1875-1975' by Perilla Kinchin. On 23 November 1871 Alexander married Rachel Torrance Atkins, who was the daughter of pianoforte maker Hugh Atkins (see his advert below from 15 July 1861 Glasgow Herald). They went on to have seven daughters: Hilda, Olga, Silvia, Selma, Ruby, Vera and Alma. Alexander was naturalised as a British citizen in 1876.

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Assafrey's independent venture proved to be a great success and, in 1888, when it participated in the Glasgow International Exhibition, the business was described as follows:

​"Five or six years subsequent to his first establishment in Sauchiehall Street, Mr Assafrey instituted a branch at 2 Rokeby Terrace, Hillhead, which is now in most flourishing circumstances, and about eighteen months ago he opened another depot at 78 St. Vincent Street. Both these establishments have done well, carrying on a growing business for themselves. The premises at headquarters in Sauchiehall Street comprise an extensive and well-situated shop with a luxuriantly appointed refreshment and general saloon in the rear, and in connection are culinary departments, in which are prepared many of the delicious confections and choice dishes for which the place has become famous. In St. Vincent Street is another large shop with another saloon, also of elegant appointment, while at Hillhead the depot comprises a shop and saleroom only.

At 121 Sauchiehall Lane the house has a large factory, extending quite through from the lane to Bath Street. This place is most completely equipped, employs a numerous force of hands, and is devoted exclusively to the manufacture of chocolate and cocoa powder, this house being reputed as the only one in Scotland extensively combining tile production of both these articles in one industry. Assafrey's soluble cocoa powder is one of the most familiar preparations of its kind in the Scottish market, and is renowned for its delicate flavour and excellence of quality. Every description of improved and labour-saving machinery is employed.

The specialities of the house consist in fine French confectionery in all its branches : wedding cakes, choice fancy dishes, ices for dinner and other parties, and bonbons, chocolate caramels and superior sweetmeats of every kind. In ices the firm have an unsurpassed reputation, and their connection for these dainty goods extends throughout the most distinguished social circles all over Scotland. The name of Assafrey in relation to bonbons is a synonym for excellence throughout Great Britain. His house is most particularly renowned for these ever-popular sweetmeats, many of which are his own invention, and he is recognised as the practical introducer of these goods in this country, where he has developed in them a business of very great magnitude. The stock held at headquarters in Sauchiehall Street is particularly large and comprehensive, and abounds in novel, unique, and interesting features.

Mr. Assafrey conducts his business with exemplary enterprise and conspicuous commercial and practical ability. At the Glasgow Exhibition he is exhibiting in the Machinery Department an installation of his fine chocolate machinery, and at the same Exhibition, which, promises to be a perfect symposium of everything that Glasgow can accomplish in the peaceful arts and industries, he will have a typical kiosk, whereat will be retailed to lovers of confectionery all descriptions of the bonbons, chocolate sweetmeats, and ices for which this house is so deservedly noted."


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The successful involvement in the Exhibition acted as a catalyst for further expansion, particularly in the tea and luncheon room side of his business. In the 1890s several more premises were opened in Glasgow and a branch was opened in Edinburgh on Princes Street. It was around the turn of the century that the Assafreys began to spend their summers in Lundin Links. The list of summer visitors published in the local papers shows them at Emsdorf House in 1901 and 1902; Keil Bank in 1904 (when the daughters performed at the Improvement Fund Concert) and Monkton Lodge in 1905. In 1905 the family were part of the "fashionable assemblage" at the opening of the Lundin Bowling Club. The event is pictured below - the gentlemen to the left of the magnified part of the photo perhaps being Mr Assafrey. Alexander lived until 1930, passing away at the age of 85 at his home at Kirn on the Firth of Clyde.

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Feuars' Green

29/9/2020

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View above from Cardy House looking east towards Temple, with bleaching green (Feuars' Green or Temple Green) in foreground to the right (Canmore collection).
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The previous post looked at the two Durham Schools in Lower Largo and how the old schoolhouse at the Temple car park was superseded by the later school that would become the Durham Hall. The 1836 single room school was left as a ruin for decades until - exactly a century after it was first erected - the remains were cleared away. In the run up to that, it was becoming increasingly clear that the Feuars' Green or Temple Green was needing a bit of attention. Having been neglected for a while, things came to a head after winter storms took their toll on the seafront here.

In 1935 the Leven Advertiser of 23 April reported, under the headline "Havoc on Foreshore", that "time and tide have played havoc with the seats which were erected a few years ago on the foreshore at the Temple, Largo, by the Improvements Committee. During the summer season these seats were a popular rendezvous with the older generation."

This prompted efforts to renew and improve the 'vacant' ground. Discussion ensued around the possibilities for enhancing the space for locals and visitors alike. Later that year the suggestion of creating a children's playground or a putting green on the green created much animation among the locals. As the piece in the 19 Oct 1935 Fife Free Press below indicates, folk were keen to point out that nothing could be done without the unanimous agreement of the green feuars (who had collectively been given the ground many years earlier for use as a bleaching green - see image at the top of the post where white cloth can be seen drying in the corner of the green). Times had changed and no longer was the green needed for bleaching. Its main use had become a convenient 'lying up' place for fishing and pleasure boats off season. A committee was duly established to explore the possibilities for the green. 
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The above update appeared in the 13 June 1936 Fife Free Press, showing that improvement plans were taking shape. By the September, the plans were being executed. The Leven Advertiser (29 Sept) updates on the works to level the ground, remove the ruins of the old Durham School, erect fencing and build a brick wall along the south edge of the green. The old stones from the school building were in fact used to build up the foreshore in order to protect against further storm damage.

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Although the green was tidied up, neither the putting green nor children's playpark ideas came to pass. The space is rarely referenced in the later newspaper archives. A rare example from 1937 tells that a Sunday School picnic party from Leslie based themselves at Temple Green. The storage of boats there continued and of course with the rise of the motor car, it became primarily a car park. The brick wall was at some point replaced by the neat stone wall that bounds the car park to the south today. The foreshore and road (created in 1903) to the south remain intact, perhaps in part due to the old stones from the original Durham School.

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Lundin Mill Games

1/8/2020

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One of the summer attractions of days gone by were 'games' that took place at many a town or village. For a spell Largo/Lundin Mill had its own version of this. The above notice from 11 July 1907 Leven Advertiser advertises that particular year's event. The venue was Sandilands Park (close to the east end of Leven Road) - a site which was handy for the railway station and which at that time was still undeveloped. The 25 July 1890 East of Fife Record below reports on an earlier games, held at a similar location ("ground near Lundin Links station"). Some results are detailed for the wide range of contests that were on offer. As well as the more serious athletic contests, races for 'old men' and 'old women' were held. It doesn't sound quite right for these to be described as "particularly amusing"! I also wonder how old you had to be to qualify for these 'old' folks races.

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The origins of the games are unclear but in 1888, the newspapers reported on the case of a man who was charged with "collecting funds for the Lundin Mill Games....all of which funds he had appropriated for his own uses." Apparently it had been "for some years practice to have annual games at Lundin Mill but this year there were no such games." The prisoner had spent the money drinking with a number of companions. His sentence was 10 days in prison. So the games perhaps went back to at least circa 1870s. Newspaper archives tell us that the games restarted in 1889 and definitely took place in 1890 and 1897. In 1897 the games took place on the "green in front of Lundin Mill villas", which was the undeveloped south side of Crescent Road - shown below and discussed here. The games must have lapsed again soon afterwards, as in 1904 the Leven Advertiser of 1 September told of how they had once again been "revived" and that "local lads and visitors met in keen rivalry". However, as the village grew, and permanent sporting facilities (such as tennis and bowls) were laid on, the demand for such 'games' diminished and they fizzled out in their traditional format. 

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Summer Visitors of 1910

23/7/2020

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The previous post looked at the summer visitors to Largo in 1875. The list back then was fairly long but nothing in comparison to later lists such as the 1910 example below. Of course between 1875 and 1910 many changes had taken place in the villages. The feuing of Lundin Links had taken off around the turn of the century. The parade of shops had become established on Leven Road. Many of these shopkeepers made a point of advertising in the local paper right alongside the list of visitors - including Miss Bremner at the Post Office, Douglas the Butcher and Lindsay's Grocer. David Lindsay also had a boot and shoe warehouse that catered for the holiday makers with footwear "for seaside, golf, bowling, tennis".

In 1875, Lundin Mill had 13 houses listed as occupied by summer visitors. By 1910 there were 95 including many multi-occupancy boarding houses and the Lundin Links Hotel. A number of leisure facilities had been laid on by 1910, including tennis courts, a bowling green and the Montrave Hall. The Lundin Golf Club was long-established but flourished with the increase in summer visitors. Many regular visitors were also members of the club. Lundin Ladies Golf Club moved to its current location around this time and no doubt was well-used by many of the holidaymakers too. 

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Meanwhile in Lower Largo, the list had also lengthened by 1910 (though less dramatically) from 33 to 46. Notable developments there since 1875 included Rock View, Beach House and Edina View on the sea-side of Main Street, as well as new properties on the seafront by the Orry such as Sunnyside.  Shops here also took the opportunity to advertise, including John Nicoll the grocer and Armit the boot maker (offering sand shoes and canvas shoes).

​Edinburgh and Glasgow were definitely the main sources of visitors. All houses listed now had names - none were described as 'Mrs So-and-so's', as had been the case in 1875. With so many return visitors each year, one benefit of these lists was that families could see who else was staying and reunite with acquaintances made in previous years.

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Drum Lodge Meadow

27/5/2020

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Drum Lodge on the sea-facing side of Drummochy Road dates back to the late 18th century and the days of the salt pans. Originally, there were large grounds associated with Drum Lodge (or Drummochie House as it was once known). This included extensive gardens immediately around the house (plot 36 on the 1850s feuing map below) plus 'park land' or 'meadow' to the south and east (plot 37 on the map). 

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The circa 1900 photo above shows the tree-lined park/meadow in the background to the right of centre. This space was occasionally used for public events. The advert below is for an evangelical tent mission which took place in June 1901. This tent held 300 people and hosted a series of meetings which were "well filled". Mr Galletly was described in the 13 June Leven Advertiser as a "vigorous speaker" whose "addresses seldom fail to draw his hearers back again". 
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​ In 1899, Andrew Peebles had purchased Drum Lodge. He had invested in property in his native Largo for many years while working as a factor on estates in England and his interest in property development continued after he retired to Lundin Links. In 1908, the meadow owned by Peebles was feued and developed by local builder Walter Horne, who had already played a significant part in the development of Lower Largo and Lundin Links. The article below from the 21 Oct 1908 Leven Advertiser explains that the Drum Park scheme would fulfil "the great ambition of the city dweller is to have a summer holiday near the sea". 
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The execution of the scheme was slightly delayed by issues around drainage at the site. The Leven Advertiser of 13 Jan 1909 below explains that the council had some difficulties resolving the problem before agreeing to put in a new pipe on the foreshore. 

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In fact what became Drum Lodge Park (later shortened to Drum Park) was built in two phases. The east half of the development came first and was ready for the summer season of 1909. The 31 March 1909 Leven Advertiser noted that:

"Mr Walter Horne is to be congratulated on his latest addition to the house property of Drummochy. On the space to the east of Drum Lodge he has erected eight very fine dwellings. The houses are situated within a few yards of the high water mark and are sure to be well let during the summer months. The mason work is completed and the houses are in such a forward state as to indicate that they will be in the pink of condition at the height of the visitors' season."

Later that year, on 17 Nov 1909, the Leven Advertiser mentions "further building being started in Drum Park" and by the summer of 1910 these additional eight houses were complete. Many of the sixteen dwellings had been purchased by Edinburgh residents. The local papers of 1910 contain lists of 'summer visitors' and most of the Drum Park properties were filled by families from either the capital city or from Glasgow. 

The postcard image below shows only the east half of the scheme in place (comprising eight dwellings). Further below is a photograph showing the whole development soon after completion. Finally, there is a more recent image that shows Drum Park largely unchanged since its early days, aside from a few minor alterations to dormer windows and extra reinforcement of sea defences. 

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1950s Drum Park

23/5/2020

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It was clearly a 'scorcher' on the day that this postcard image was captured. In fact, even the sender of the postcard remarked (upon their August 1955 stay) that they were "having a lovely time here - weather perfect." Simple pleasures were the order of the day. Bringing out a deck chair to have a sit in the sun, enjoying the sea view, paddling in the sea or burying yourself in sand. More in the next post on the origins of these terraced houses.

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Painting the Crusoe

17/1/2020

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The above photograph was taken by the late Robert Carswell Paxton of Homelands. It may have been taken around 1902 when the Paxtons settled in Largo (initially staying at Drum Lodge). This is still in the days of the wooden footbridge (see left of image) which preceded the building of the road bridge. Incidentally, the photograph of the first car crossing the road bridge is also thought to have been taken by Robert Paxton, who must have been quite a keen amateur photographer.

The detail below shows a team of three painters working on the exterior walls on what appears to be a bright sunny day. Alexandra House (now the site of Lower Largo's one remaining shop) can be seen to the left of the Crusoe. Further below is detail showing Bridgend House, the Railway Inn and Belmont Temperance Hotel (in an elevated position to the right of the bridge over the railway line). Miss Mary Carswell was proprietor of the Belmont at the time of this photo. I wonder whether she may have been related to Robert Paxton's mother Janet Carswell. At the foot of this post is an advert from 1908 for the Belmont Hotel when the proprietors were the Misses Sawyer.

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Largo Silver and Brass Band

4/12/2019

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For many a decade Largo had its own band. The above image (dated 1890 but possibly a few years later) shows the Largo Silver and Brass Band in uniform (reproduced from the book 'Seatoun of Largo' by Ivy Jardine). An article written about this particular incarnation of the local band appeared in the 29 August 1908 St Andrews Citizen. This piece stated that the band was established "25 years ago" suggesting an 1883 start date. It went on to say that they made their debut on the New Year's Day after their inception and since then had never missed a New Year's Day performance. However, a search through the newspaper archives reveals that earlier bands had come and gone before that 1883 date.

In 1839, the "Largo and Lundin Mill Instrumental Band" played at an Old Handsel Monday soiree organised by the "Largo and Lundin Mill Total Abstinence Society" in the "wareroom" at the spinning mill. The band are mentioned frequently in the 1840s and 1850s including the lacklustre review in the Fife Herald of 15 May 1856 below, where "the attendance was most miserable". This review generated a letter of complaint to the paper soon afterwards suggesting that this was an "attack" on the band due to "wounded feelings". I wonder what the story was there?

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A dearth of mentions during the 1860s and early 1870s suggests that the band fell into abeyance for a time. The fact that  special events in Largo were attended by brass bands from nearby places such as Largoward, Leven and Methil supports that theory. However, in 1876 the 'Largo Brass Band' provided the music at a flower show in St Andrews representing a possible come back but it was not until the 1880s that the band seem to have become more consistent and fully established. They were conducted by a Mr Williamson in the mid 1880s and were typically known as 'Largo Brass Band'. At this time, the band also benefited from coaching from Leven's bandmaster - Mr Adamson - in an attempt to get them onto the 'competition list'. Band contests were popular with many Fife bands being regularly involved in these.

In 1899 it was noted in the St Andrews Citizen (1 July) that the band had recently secured a "smart uniform" through funds raised by a prize draw and liberal aid from "shopkeepers and other friends". This suggests that they previously had no uniform and places the image at the top of this post perhaps closer to 1899 than 1890. This was the era when the band were leasing and using a space in the granary building at Largo Harbour as a band room.

For 17 years (from around 1890) the band had been conducted by Leven man Mr George Houison. He led them to the competition victories that gave them the name "Largo Prize Band" for a number of years. He may well be in the photograph above. However, Houison left for Ontario, Canada around the end of 1907 with several other members of his family, some of whom were also band members. The front page advert from the East of Fife Record (6 Sept 1907) details what must have been one of Houison's last engagements with the band.

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The band was funded entirely by subscriptions with costs of around £60 per annum in 1908 (excluding repairs or new instruments). At this time it was noted that other bands in the area had "full-plated sets of instruments" and it was thought that Largo should too. A sum of around £200 would have to be raised to make that happen. A bazaar was proposed for the following summer​.

A Mr J Bisset took over the bandmaster role in 1908 was described as an "energetic and efficient teacher". This was quite possibly John Bisset later of Buckthorns Farm. At that time the band had a number of wealthy patrons and seemed to be in great demand. To advertise their 1909 summer bazaar, the band's secretary Thomas Graham Wishart had his motor car "gaily decorated and...driven round the district advertising the announcing the attractions of the bazaar". This must have been effective as around 700 people attended the event and soon afterwards the band became 'Largo Silver Band'.  Mr Bisset resigned early in 1912 as bandmaster and the position was advertised (see advert below from 10 Feb Fifeshire Advertiser). It was noted that attendances at practices were not good at that time and only a couple of concerts were mentioned in the local papers thereafter before the band took a break during the Great War. ​
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The band had resumed by 1921 and continued albeit with up and downs for many years after that. In 1929 the Leven Mail (19 June) reported that the "exodus of many young players from the district may force Largo Silver Band to break up" but by 1933 the same paper (8 March) stated that the band "now has the financial security to enlarge its scope". There was a simple bandstand on Massney Braes around the 1930s (see images below) where the band gave a popular summer programme of concerts. There was a period of disbandment during World War Two but the band were reported in the 19 June 1946 Leven Mail as playing at the Largo War Memorial. The leader at that time was another Mr Bisset. In this post-war period there was also a 'Largo Pipe Band'. Mention of either band seems to be absent from the newspaper archives after this time. If you know when the demise of the Largo Silver Band came about - please comment.
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Belfrage's Tea Gardens

16/10/2019

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Gunnar Mauritz Belfrage was born in Gothenberg in 1887, son of architect August Wilhelm Belfrage (1841-1909). In 1904, aged 17, he came to Scotland, where he was initially an assistant with the firm of Gjertsen and Bruce ship chandlers in Methil.  In 1909 he spent some time in Germany before returning to Sweden to train as a masseur. In 1915 Gunnar returned to Scotland and worked in hospitals in and around Glasgow. During his time there he married Inez Maria Soderberg in 1919. They had three daughters while living in Glasgow - Ingrid born in 1920, then Signe in 1922 and Asta in 1923. Soon afterwards the family settled in Fife.

In 1926, Mr Belfrage was appointed German Missionary at the 'Deutsches Seemanshaus' (pictured below in its heyday and in more recent times) on Durie Street, Methil. This job was to act as a pastor to the many German-speaking seamen that would have come in and out of Methil docks - a post he remained for around a decade. The German Seaman's Mission was built in 1900 to provide religious services for the increasing number of German seamen visiting the port. The piece below from the St Andrews Citizen of 21 April describes its dedication. The first missionary appointed was a Herr Johannes Voss. The mission was suspended during the First World War and closed permanently in 1939. Gunnar Belfrage was mentioned many times in the local press during his time as missionary - an example of this from 1 February 1930 Fife Free Press is further below.

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By 1936 the Belfrages had left Methil and were pursuing other interests, while based in Lundin Links, as the adverts below show. Mr Belfrage advertised his massage therapy in the Fife Free Press of 14 Nov 1936, while Mrs Belfrage was listed in the MacDonald's Directory of 1939-40 as a confectioner. They supplemented these activities with the 'Tea Gardens' at their home, Imrie Cottage on Emsdorf Street (the premises that formerly hosted Andrew Thomson's baker shop). The advert at the top of this post for the tea gardens appeared in the 10 June 1936 Dundee Evening Telegraph.
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Tea Gardens were a popular concept in the early decades of the last century (and before). A couple of examples (not local) are illustrated below, where folks have basically turned their own garden into an al fresco cafe serving home-baking and drinks. In the 1930s when Lundin Links was very much still a fashionable summer resort, there would have been no shortage of potential customers for such an enterprise - especially on Emsdorf Street - a key route between the hotel and boarding houses of Lundin Links and the pier and beach at Lower Largo.
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Belfrage's Tea Gardens seem to have been short-lived however as by 1940 the Belfrages had moved to 'Sandilands' on Leven Road in Lundin Links. They stayed there until the autumn of 1946 when the couple left Scotland to return to their homeland of Sweden. Inez died there in 1968 while Gunnar died in Stockholm aged 87 on 12 December 1974. 
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