Margaret Baird Paxton was born on 17 February 1902 at Drum Lodge, shortly after her parents and elder sister Jessie had returned to Scotland from Texas, where her father was a rancher. Two years later her younger sister, Isabel, was born and in 1907, the fourth sibling, Emily, completed the family. The Paxtons bought their long-term home, named Homelands, in 1908. As a young teenager, during the First World War, Margaret would have been involved in the Red Cross Work Party which was based in her home and co-ordinated by her mother. The piece below, from the 17 September 1914 Leven Advertiser, tells of an early consignment of gifts from the local group. By the end of the war, over 12,000 garments had been supplied by the work parties in Largo.

The Paxtons were involved in many charitable activities and supported several improvements to the district. For example, Mr and Mrs Paxton provided and equipped a hut to act as a social club for ex-servicemen in 1920 and funded a pitching and putting course at Lundin Golf Club in 1923. The Paxton ladies frequently ran stalls at fetes for various causes. The Royal National Lifeboat Institute was a cause that they supported regularly. Margaret was a frequent cast member in the productions of the Lundin Links Amateur Dramatics Group and was active in Largo S.W.R.I. One cause that was especially close to Margaret's heart, however, was the Girl Guiding movement. She was captain of Largo Girl Guides for many years, going by the name "Eagle Owl", and was for a spell Girl Guiding's 'Camp Secretary' for the whole of Scotland.

In 1926, Margaret's parents gifted the community a cottage for the residence of the Largo and Newburn District Nurse. The cottage stands behind the Parish war memorial (in a location chosen because it was as close as possible to the centre of the nurse's district). Robert Paxton passed away in October 1926 before the building was completed, so Mrs Paxton and her three daughters saw the project through to completion. 

When the District Nurse's Cottage opened in March 1927, the Leven Advertiser (12 March) noted the sunny southern outlook towards the Bass Rock, the telephone which was installed "so as to facilitate communication with doctors and patients" and the way in which the nurse's rooms had "been furnished with a completeness and comfort which leaves nothing to be desired." The report continued "the forethought and care which Mrs Paxton and the Misses Paxton have lavished on the cottage are evidence of how much it has been a labour of love to them". Two small gardens were laid out - one for the nurse and the other for the caretaker. The nurse's garden was tended by the Largo Girl Guides, under Margaret's direction.
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Margaret was very close to her sisters, so when elder sister Jessie set up a pioneering nursery school in Methil in 1935, Margaret supported her. Having gained experience in the nursery, Margaret was inspired to take action to meet another great need - for residential accommodation for children. She set about planning a children's home. Such a home would be for those requiring full-time care, perhaps because their parents were ill or because they had been rendered temporarily homeless. 

Margaret enlisted the help of a large committee to support her plan and in due course an Executive Committee (see above) was set up to administer the business of the home. Upper Largo's Dr William Eggeling acted as honorary medical officer. A large dwelling close to Homelands had become vacant, called Aithernie House (today known as the Old Manor Hotel). This was owned by Silverburn's Sir David Russell. Aithernie had four public rooms (all facing south), ten bedrooms, three bathrooms, electric light, modern central heating and a wash house with laundry. The map below shows how close Aithernie was to Homelands. 
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In December 1936, Margaret wrote to Sir David Russell to say that she was "very anxious to start a children's home in Largo" as "there is no place in Fife to which necessitous children may be sent and there is a very great need for such a home". She stressed that she had "come across some very deserving cases recently". ​The initial plan was to accommodate up to 36 children. The first year's expenses were covered by friends of the Paxtons, and the hope was that wider public support would be secured once the home was up and running and could demonstrate its worth. 

In turn David Russell wrote to his lawyer enclosing the letter from Margaret Paxton. In it he emphasised that he had known the Paxtons for many years and found them to be reliable. He also referenced Jessie's good work with the Methil Nursery. He closed by saying that with regard to the proposition "he was inclined to consider it favourably". Soon afterwards, all was signed and sealed. The 11 September 1937 St Andrews Citizen below tells of the imminent opening of Fife Children's Home. 
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Six months after opening, there were twenty children in residence between the ages of 2 and 11, along with six staff (Miss Paxton, her assistant, a cook and three nurses). Margaret and her assistant Miss M. Scrymgeour Wedderburn were voluntary workers. Below are descriptions of some 'typical cases' at that time. 
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Above is a photograph of some of the early residents of the children's home. Meals were taken outdoors, when possible, to get the benefit of fresh air and sunshine. The benches and tables were no doubt hand-made by local people and the children's bibs hand-made too. One of the glasshouses in the Aithernie garden can be seen. The grounds would have been carefully nurtured over many decades and at one time would have produced a great variety of produce.
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The piece above is from 19 February 1938 Fife Free Press. The work of both Jessie and Margaret Paxton was innovative and was followed with great interest. Of course, in the 1939, the outbreak of war brought new pressures on both ventures. At Fife Children's Home there were new reasons for children requiring assistance, as fathers were called up to join the armed services. One example was a widower with six children who went to serve in the Navy on a minesweeper. Three of his children went to stay with grandparents, while three came to reside at Aithernie. Two refugees from Austria, aged 2 and 4 also came to the home. Their fees were paid by two members of the home's committee.

In July 1940 another brochure was created to highlight the work of the home in the hope that further support would be forthcoming from farther afield. Below is an extract from this brochure. While daily life had continued much as before, gas mask drills and air raid precautions were now required. 
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1941 proved to be a difficult year for Margaret. The headline above, from 6 August Leven Mail, reports on the Annual Meeting of the committee. The clear message was that the home may have to close if not better supported. In the October of the same year Margaret's mother, Margaret, died at Homelands aged 78. Unsurprisingly, all those circumstances combined, took their toll on Margaret's health and in 1942 she had to spend some time in a nursing home to recuperate.

The sixth AGM for Fife Children's Home took place in 1942. The health of Miss Paxton was referenced, as were the direct and indirect impacts of the war. Ongoing challenges included food rationing, meeting blackout requirements and air raid precautions, staffing shortages and financial issues. While day nurseries were eligible for a war-time grant, the home was not. Yet somehow the home continued to function.

However, early in 1943 the home had to close for a six-month period. This had come about because Margaret had suffered a breakdown, having had do the cooking and attend the children at night, on top of her usual role as superintendent, due to staff shortages. In July 1943, Fife County Council made a grant of £100 to Aithernie Home and it was able to reopen. At the seventh annual meeting a few weeks later, Margaret expressed her regret at the circumstances which had necessitated the closing of the home. Now, however, the home was full up and had a long waiting list. Thirty-eight cases had been dealt with during the year, nearly all being the children of service men. The health of the children had been good and they had been vaccinated against diphtheria. 

​At the eighth annual meeting of the subscribers to Fife Children's Home in 1944 it was once again noted that Miss Paxton's health had not been so good. It was likely that Margaret continued to be overworked and was unable to give herself the time she really needed to rest and recover from earlier ill health. There had also been "very serious staffing issues". Above is an advert from 1944 for a cook for the home. Nevertheless, splendid work had been done with a considerable number of children benefitting from a stay. The war was still ongoing and sadly two key committee members had died during that year - ex-Provost Barron of Leven and Mrs Rowand of St Andrews. 

The ninth annual meeting took place in 1945. In the summary of the year, it was noted that several valuable subscribers had been lost by death and that staffing difficulties persisted. There were a few vacancies on the General Committee. Seventy children had been cared for over the year, with the waiting list remaining long. The "absence of so many men overseas had produced a very serious social problem" and many mothers found themselves having to work. The clipping below from the 12 September 1945 Leven Mail shows some of the year's highlights. An insight into the support given by local people was also given when Margaret described a "constant supply of vegetables" from Mrs Fleming and the "many friends who darn and re-foot socks and make and mend the clothes" as well as knitting, sending food and holding fundraising events.

Janet Hamilton Paxton (known as Jessie) was born in 1895 in San Antonio, Texas, USA. She was the eldest child of rancher Robert Carswell Paxton and his wife Margaret Donald Baird. Robert Paxton was born into an Ayrshire brewery-owning family. While his elder brother George continued the brewery business, Robert emigrated to America in 1878, aged about 25, to become one of the first settlers in Terrell County, Texas.  The area which he settled is now known as the Longfellow Ranch. Robert established a sheep station prior to his marriage to Margaret Donald Baird at the age of 41 on 25 October 1894 in Kilmarnock. On the marriage certificate his occupation is ‘sheep farmer’.  Their first child Jessie was born the following year. Robert eventually diversified into cattle as well as sheep. Terrell County would go on to become one of the USA’s largest sheep and wool producers.

​In July 1899, Robert, Margaret and a 4-year-old Jessie travelled from New York to Glasgow. While Robert's sheep and cattle ranch continued, the family sought a return to Scotland. Two years later in the 1901 census, Jessie and both her parents were recorded at 25 Blacket Place in Edinburgh. This was the rented home of Robert's sister Janet Muir Paxton. Robert Paxton's occupation was given in the census as "Ranchman in Texas". By 1902 the Paxtons had identified Lundin Links as a suitable place to live and were renting Drum Lodge. During the 2-3 years that they family lived there, Jessie's sisters were born - Margaret Baird Paxton on 17 February 1902 and Isabella Carse Paxton on 22 June 1904. The Paxtons then moved to Elphinstone on Crescent Road in 1905 (pictured below) and the family's fourth daughter and youngest child, Emily, was born there in 1907. The following year Homelands came up for sale and it became the permanent family home.

​Robert continued to travel periodically to Texas, while also being involved in local life in Fife. He was Captain of Lundin Golf Club 1908-09 and appears in the photograph above at the opening of the Lundin Ladies new course on 15 April 1910. Jessie is likely the young woman in the centre back row with the wide-brimmed hat, standing between her parents. At the time of the 1911 census both Jessie and her father were absent from Homelands. It's probable that both were in the USA.

Tragically, on 3 April 1912, the Paxtons' youngest daughter Emily died at Homelands, aged 4. That same year Robert sold the Texas ranch. However, this was not the end of the USA connection and in 1914 Jessie travelled to visit the country of her birth aboard the ship Colombia, from Glasgow to New York. Shortly afterwards, the First World War began and the Paxtons swung into action to support aid efforts.  For four and a half years, the Lundin Links Red Cross work party was based at Homelands, with Mrs Paxton as convener. The Paxton family became firmly established in the community of Lundin Links and beyond. The three Miss Paxtons were all involved in amateur dramatics and well as charitable activities. The photograph below from the 9 February 1931 Dundee Courier shows Jessie (front row, extreme right), Isabel (next to Jessie) and Margaret (centre, back row) coming second in the Scottish Community Drama Festival (Kirkcaldy Section) in the Adam Smith Theatre, as part of the Lundin Amateur Dramatic Society team.

It was in the early 1930s that Jessie Paxton found her calling in life. The Leven Advertiser of 15 Feb 1938 refers to how she was first inspired by “a casual visit to a home in London run by former pupils of St Leonards School, St Andrews". Jessie then spent a couple of years training in London, most likely at the Rachel Macmillan Nursery School College in East London. To view a short film of a typical day there around that time - click here.  It was in 1930 that the training centre was given full college status, so Jessie would have been one of the early graduates.

Rachel and Margaret McMillan were sisters and nursery school pioneers. Both born in the USA to Scottish parents, they returned to Scotland as children. As young women they became suffragists and socialists, eventually focussing their attention on the needs of young children and the belief that they needed the opportunity to develop and learn by being healthy, clean and well fed. They ran the first nursery schools in the country, placing great importance upon imaginative play, time outdoors, nourishing food and allocated time for sleep.

​Although Rachel died in 1917, Margaret continued their work, writing several books about nursery education. She gave many speeches about the needs of the poorest children in society and the value of nursery education. By the end of the First World War, Margaret McMillan was considered an expert in nursery education. When she died in 1931, she had established a philosophy of nursery education and nursery schools as open-air institutions that continues to influence practice today. You can read much more about her life here.

Sharing this genuine interest in the welfare of the very young, and now with the necessary training under her belt, Jessie Paxton searched Fife for a suitable premises in which to open her own nursery. The rent-free use of Lindsay's Square Hall and two adjoining houses in Methil (marked on the map below) was granted by Charles Carlow of Fife Coal Company. The buildings were adapted for use as a small nursery school (with a playroom, bathroom and kitchen). Furniture for the nursery was made by three unemployed men (Messrs Deblin, Cargill and Allan) who were members of the Leven Unemployed Social Service Centre at Albion House. They spent several weeks making tiny tables, chairs and stretcher beds which were painted bright blue.

Toys were also made locally, and food donated by generous supporters. Eighteen children aged between three and a half and four years old started on Tuesday 26 November 1935, with younger children starting the Monday after. The above photograph from the 29 November 1935 Courier shows a beaming Jessie with two of the first pupils. The facility was opened without any expenditure from public funds. The initial expense of adapting the building and early running costs came from private subscriptions. Efforts were made to keep costs relatively low and parents of pupils paid just one shilling per week. In the early days, aside from two young nursemaids who received wages, all work was voluntary. Despite all of that, the nursery was viewed with hostility from some parts of the community (and that persisted for many years among those that saw pre-school child welfare as the domain of parents).

​In February 1936 Provost William Smart wrote in the Leven Advertiser about a typical day at the nursery. An extract from this report is below. Being too young to read, each child had their own unique picture to identify their peg and other belongings. They wore light brown overalls, had porridge for breakfast and played singing games afterwards. A nutritious lunch was followed by a spoonful of malt and halibut oil. A toothbrushing drill preceded rest hour, where pupils napped on individual beds with their own blankets (an unpopular part of the day for the older ones).

Toys available included blackboards, string beads, peg boards and wooden blocks - designed to train the hands and eyes. Tea was brown bread with jam and milk drunk out a bottle with a straw. The floor was blue linoleum and the walls painted yellow at the top and brown below. The fire blazed to keep the place warm. Smart described a "happy and joyful picture" with children aged 2 to 5 "eagerly busy". ​Jessie, her nursemaids and a long string of tiny tots became a familiar sight in the streets close to the nursery as they took their daily walk. In those early days, many of the bairns attending came from families struggling with overcrowding, poverty or poor health (or sometimes all three). Gaining a place at the nursery could revolutionise their lives.
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While the nursery thrived, the surrounding houses of Lindsay's Square had been earmarked for demolition. Built to house miners, these were now very old and, with their dirt floors and lack of plumbing, were no longer deemed fit for human habitation. Their demolition began in 1935 and continued into 1936. The disruption of this work, going on adjacent to the nursery, must have been considerable. Initially, it was hoped that the redevelopment of the site would include provision to expand the nursery, allowing more children to attend. By 1937, there were 48 children in the Methil nursery and a waiting list of 60. Miss Paxton spoke of one three-year-old boy that used to stand at the gate every day, tears running down his face, saying "I'm wantin' in. I'm wantin' in". He eventually got in but there were many more like him still waiting.

Around the time that the County Council had purchased the old Lindsay Square housing from the Fife Coal Company, the Council's Education Committee had formally recognised the nursery and begun to provide a grant towards running expenses. So, it seemed hopeful that an additional building for the nursery to expand into might be created within the redeveloped Lindsay Square area. However, the priority of the Buckhaven and Methil Town Council was to build houses. Their suggestion was to wait and assess the available space after the housing had been completed. Jessie, believing that the need for additional space for the nursery was both great and urgent, began negotiations with other potential sites. By November 1938, the waiting list had grown to 115 children.

The nursery now had to deal with the disruption of the construction of the new housing at the site (which would become St Andrew's Square) and as the 1930s drew to a close, the Second World War put an end to all plans to extend or relocate the nursery. Wartime brought fresh challenges, around food supply, staffing shortages and general uncertainty. However, Miss Paxton's nursery continued to operate through that difficult period and emerged ready to revisit expansion plans. Finally, on 5 September 1949 a second nursery opened at Kirkland Drive. The premises were a former National Fire Service hut, purchased from the Freemasons and adapted for its new use. The number of children attending across the two sites rose to almost 100,

The 7 September 1949 Leven Mail covered the opening and included the two photographs below. Reconditioned rocking horses had been brought up from the Lower Methil nursery and other toys had been brought in by well-wishers, including a beautiful miniature horse-drawn carriage. Each child had their own particular favourite plaything. The new nursery started with 13 children but would quickly progress to accommodate 25 to 30. Even with a second building, there were ongoing calls upon the Buckhaven and Methil Council to find a more substantial and permanent premises for the nursery.

When the Kirkland Drive nursery was targeted by vandals in May 1954, Miss Paxton explained that "this was not a very surprising discovery" as "they have been doing this sort of thing since 1936" and that she had lost count of the number of windowpanes that had had to be replaced over the years. On this occasion, vandals had smashed a rocking horse and barrow, strewn the laundry about and broken three windows. The little ones arriving the next morning were puzzled as to why this had happened, and the poignant image above appeared in the 2 June Leven Mail. The little boy is holding the broken handle of the rocking horse.
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Jessie's vision and determination were recognised when she was awarded an MBE in 1956 for her pioneering work. This was yet another parallel between the life of Jessie Paxton and that of Margaret McMillan, who was awarded the CBE in her lifetime. Both women were born in the United States but educated in Scotland, both effected great changes in the nurture and early education of young children. Each was resilient in the face of setbacks, was willing to challenge various forms of authority and ultimately took on a level of responsibility that took a toll on their own health. 

Jessie also provided inspiration for her younger sister Margaret Paxton who also focussed her energies on the wellbeing of children, opening a children’s home. More on that in a future post. Methil nursery bairns often made the trip to Homelands to play on the lawn there and run around in the sunshine or to visit the beach. At Christmas there was a party or a pantomime, often in Methil Parish Church Hall. Finally, in 1960, the long-term future of the nursery was secured when a new purpose-built facility opened, funded by Fife County Council. This replaced the two existing nursery buildings, both of which closed.

The new nursery was the 26th school building constructed in Fife after the war. It was officially opened by Police Judge Andrew Goodwillie, vice-convener of the County's Education Committee. For the first time, a quarter of a century after starting out, Miss Paxton's nursery finally had a new and properly funded building. She remarked that she had always dreamed of having such a school and that "never in my wildest dreams did I expect a spacious and magnificent place such as this." Jessie and her staff moved to the new nursery and worked under the Fife County Council Education Department. By this time, some of the early nursery bairns were parents of the new nursery pupils. 

Two years after the new nursery (pictured above) opened Jessie Paxton (pictured below) passed away in a nursing home in Edinburgh aged 66 after a spell of ill health. Notices of her death from the 4 April 1962 Leven Mail are shown below. After her death the nursery was renamed the 'Paxton Nursery' and it continues with the same name, in the same building, to this day.

The impact that Jessie had is still felt today and many continue to remember her with great fondness. She was a courageous woman who had a vision, persevered to make that vision a reality and devoted her life to its continuation. She was the first to introduce the new 'nursery movement' to Fife and had the resolve to do what she thought needed doing. Overcoming initial hostility to the scheme, many inconveniences, sporadic vandalism, wartime hardship and a constant struggle to secure premises and resources, Jessie paved the way for other nursery schools to be established and to become fully accepted as a key part of Fife's educational provision. 
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​The personal tribute to Jessie below was written by George Simpson Barron, draper and ex-Bailie of Leven and was published in the 4 April 1962 Leven Mail.

The previous five blog posts have charted the history of the Lundin Links Hotel, from its 1900 opening to the more modern era of the 1960s. The years from the 1970s to the present day will remain fresh in the memories of many, if you have your own memories or photos that you would like to share, and add into the archive of the hotel's history, please do get in touch, either by commenting on this post or hitting the 'contact' link on the sidebar (or footer on mobile version of site). The black and white images of the hotel above and below date to the mid-1970s and belong to the Canmore collection of Historic Environment Scotland. J.W. Mathison was still in charge at the hotel at this time. He advertised Christmas Dinner in 1975 at £2.50 plus VAT per head. A night's accommodation was £5.25 for a single room and £8 for a double.
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Above is a typical advert for the hotel from 1980, setting out the entertainment for the week ahead. A mix of private functions, music nights, high teas and bar lunches would have been typical of the time. The price of £1.75 for a full supper with live music sounds like a good deal. Early in the 1980s the Jurecki family, who also had several other local businesses in both Lundin Links and Lower Largo over the years, ran the hotel. The adverts below date to 1982 and you can see the 'under the care of M. J. & R. Jurecki' note on all of these. Also notice the reference to 'our new Papillion Restaurant' and the 'Double L'.
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​A longer spell of ownership occurred between 1991 and 2002 when Ian Ladd and Lyn Barron-Ladd owned and managed the Lundin Links Hotel. Stating that they wished to appeal to both local clientele and those from further afield, in 1992, they embarked upon an extensive facelift for the property. The ground floor was redesigned to create a new restaurant and to double the size of the bar area - which was renamed the 'Side Door Bar', following a naming contest. A dance floor, CD juke box and pool table were installed. The reception area was moved and a new replica arched doorway was created by John Donaldson the joiner. The images below, which appeared in a full-page advert in the East Fife Mail, illustrate the changes. The downstairs restaurant initially specialised in Tex-Mex food.

​The final owners, from 2010, were Claire and Martin White. The hotel finally closed its doors in January 2014. ​It was incredibly sad to see the hotel slowly deteriorate over the years that followed. Without wishing to dwell on recent events, the final photographs below show the hotel boarded up and then its remains after the fire that took place on 17 August 2022 (and before the demolition which began on 1 September and was carried out by Austin Wilkinson Demolition). A distinctive landmark for almost a century and a quarter, the hotel may now be physically gone but the good times that it provided will live long in the memories of a great many people.
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The 1950s (covered in the previous post) seemed to be a decade of glamour and success at the Lundin Links Hotel. The Sixties began on a strong footing and in fact an annexe building was required to cope with demand for rooms. Mr and Mrs Muriset had purchased Glenairlie on Crescent Road around 1950 as their home and several years later they were able to buy Bourtree Brae House next door. As the image below shows, the house was within sight of the hotel and only a short stroll away. 

​The hotel produced a promotional pamphlet highlighting the enviable location on Largo Bay - "a veritable Scottish Riviera" - which had "been compared to the Bay of Naples". Both the cuisine and the wine cellar topped the list of features within the hotel itself - "some very fine vintages". New baths had been installed and the "latest type of bedding". Aside from the bedrooms, there were two "delightful, restful lounges" and a ballroom and recreation room. Heating was a mix of real fires, electric fires and radiators. Other services available included the option to be met at the railway station by a hotel porter, the attention of a doctor by arrangement and large garages one minute away (on Woodielea Road). As always, the hotel emphasised the proximity to golf courses. Other sporting pursuits were also mentioned, such as tennis, bowls, sea-bathing, fishing, boating and angling. Even motoring was considered a pleasant pastime for the holiday-maker!
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However, change was afoot. Firstly, in 1962, after thirty years service, manageress Miss Cameron died. Three years later the railway line through Lundin Links and Largo closed to passenger services. In 1966, the Murisets decided to retire - 34 years after taking on the hotel. Never again would anyone come close to retaining ownership of the hotel for such as lengthy period. Huge changes had taken place during the era of Freddie and Jean Muriset. In the East Fife Mail of 9 November 1966 Mr Muriset commented that there had been a 100% increase in the number of people eating out at hotels and that quality of food had greatly improved.  He also remarked that "running a hotel is very much a 24 hours a day job". The couple had certainly devoted a huge chunk of their lives to the Lundin Links Hotel and had enjoyed doing so.

Part three in this series about the Lundin Links Hotel ended with the outbreak of the Second World War. Hotel owner, Freddie Muriset, had already served as a gunner with the Royal Field Artillery in the First World War. He immediately signed up to serve again, becoming a Captain with the Royal Artillery Territorial Army from 1939, progressing to a Major later during the war. In his absence, the hotel remained open, with his wife Jean Muriset at the helm, supported by long-term member of staff Miss Margaret Cameron who lived on-site.

The postcard image above features the air raid shelter which was created by the entrance to Fir Park (see brick feature at far left of image). This is shown in more detail below. The hotel continued to host functions such as weddings, and to welcome guests, while dealing with blackout restrictions and rationing. The advert below dates to 1944 and names Jean as the proprietor. As it became clear that the war was close to an end, fund-raising events such as dances were held in the hotel in aid of the 'Welcome Home Fund'. In the years immediately following the war, hotels across the country found stocks of items such as sheets, towels, furniture and curtains in short supply. Mr Muriset commented upon this in the press in June 1948, adding that the cut in spirits allocation and limited petrol rations, on top of other supply issues, would mean that many small hotels would struggle to make a profit.

However, as the post-war years gave way to the new decade, the Lundin Links Hotel was on the up once more. Each week in the local press there were reports of dances, celebrations, meetings and dinners held there. Moreover, a string of famous faces visited the hotel. Firstly, on 14 March 1949, child actor John Howard Davies, pictured below, who was aged 10 at the time, was a guest. The star of the 1948 film 'Oliver Twist', stayed at the Lundin Links Hotel with his mother for three days, while making personal appearances at cinemas in Lochgelly, Kirkcaldy and Dunfermline. He also paid a surprise visit to a school in Methil. ​

June 1952 saw His Highness Omar Ali Saifuddien III, the Sultan of Brunei, and party lunch at the Lundin Links Hotel as the guests of Cameron Bridge Distillery. The Sultan had arrived in the UK on 20 May for a two month visit (his first to the country). The photograph above from 11 June Tatler shows him (centre) at an event just days prior to his visit to Fife, where he attended the Cupar Highland Games. A second Sultan dined at the hotel just one month later. On this occasion it was the Sultan of Perak (a Malaysian state) who enjoyed the hotel's hospitality.
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The following year, another celebrity dropped in for lunch at the hotel - Maurice Chevalier, the French actor, singer and entertainer. The 64-year-old, who was also a keen golfer, visited in February 1953 while in the UK touring his one-man show (which included dates at King's Theatre in Glasgow and the Lyceum in Edinburgh). His lunch followed a visit to the John Haig factory in Markinch.

The hotel now used the phrase "Scottish Riviera" extensively in its advertising and this became the hotel's telegram address. An advert even appeared in The Tatler suggesting the hotel as a place to go for 'Northern Nights' away. A good balance would seem to have been struck between catering for both visitors and locals alike. Parties thrown for children are fondly remembered by some. The 9 November 1955 Leven Mail reported on a Hallowe'en party where "a hilarious time was had by all". Tea was served, a conjurer provided entertainment and then a real witch "whisked in on her broom, complete with cat". A 1950 Christmas Social comprised "a programme of games and dances to suit young and old", Christmas carols then an appearance by Santa Claus who presented each young guest with a gift.

The previous post concluded with Thomas Hogg and his wife taking over the running of the hotel in 1924. Just two years later, their lives were hit by tragedy when their son, Cecil James Hogg, who worked as an assistant barman in the hotel, was killed in a motor accident, aged just 17 years old. The accident happened on a new stretch of road between Aberhill and Leven Bridge in wet conditions. The car, with five occupants returning from a dance, collided with an electric standard, adjacent to the Wemyss and District tramway track. Hogg received the full force of the impact. Part of the Fife Free Press report of 24 July 1924 is below. The family continued to run the hotel for a further three years before Thomas Hogg retired from hotel keeping to focus on his motor hire business. He lived at 'Montpelier' on Victoria Road (named after the house of the same name in which he previously lived in Edinburgh). 

In 1929, the hotel changed ownership to Mrs Eileen Helen Lindsay and Miss Margaret (Meg) Hutchison Morton (who were sisters). The advert below from the Arbroath Herald dates to their era. Their proposals for a "lifting screen and counter" were approved by the St Andrews District Licensing Court in April 1930 (click here to see the original architect drawing for this work (will open in a new window as a PDF document)). However, their tenure would be short-lived. The hotel was advertised for sale in September 1931 (see advert further below from The Scotsman). The sale was likely due to ill health, as Meg Morton died in February 1932. 

The sale of the hotel was concluded early in 1932. The new proprietors - Freddie and Jean Muriset - would go on to become the longest-serving owners of the Lundin Links Hotel. Alfred Henri Olivier Chapman Muriset (pictured below) was born in 1893 in Edinburgh, to parents who were both teachers of French. He had worked in the whisky and wine trade prior to purchasing the hotel. The Murisets time in charge was something of a golden era for the hotel but in fact it got off to a tricky start. Almost immediately after taking over the reins, the hotel suffered a fire, in June 1932. As with the fire of 1920, it was Captain Burnett and the Buckhaven Fire Brigade that attended the call. The outbreak affected a ground floor bedroom but was triggered by an adjacent fireplace in a lounge room. Thanks to the speedy work of the fire brigade, the damage was 'trifling' and limited to a fireplace, carpet and some furniture.
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The Murisets recovered from this early set back and embarked upon improvements to the hotel. With the input of L.A. Rolland, architect, they drew up extensive plans for a new public bar and cocktail lounge to replace the original bar. The original full architect drawings for these can be viewed by clicking here (will open in a new window as a PDF document) and extracts are shown below. Note that the red lines indicate existing work removed. Also notice the various different cellars and stores. Mr Muriset's experience in the world of wines and spirits, and the pride he took in his cellar, gave him the vision to create an exciting modern bar experience for customers.
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Below are the reports in the local press on the progress of the works. The 26 February 1935 Leven Advertiser reported that the alterations were well-advanced - the new bar due to open within days. The 11 June edition of the same paper tells us that the cocktail bar had now been completed and was already proving to be popular. The bar counter and rear gantry moved from the original bar to the new public one.  The cocktail bar featured oak panelling, a brick fireplace and electric lighting.  
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It is likely that it was also around this time that the additional 'Lundin Links Hotel' lettering was added to the west-facing chimney stack. This lettering can be seen in the photograph above, which shows a bustling scene of pedestrians and a mix of vehicles at the hotel corner. The Murisets also undertook an extensive advertising campaign for the upgraded hotel, including adverts in publications such as The Sphere and The Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News. Two examples of such adverts from the late 1930s are shown below. However, on 1 September 1939, World War Two began. The story of the hotel will pick up from there in the next post.

The previous post detailed the construction and 1900 opening of the Lundin Links Hotel. The arrival of such a palatial building in the district caused quite a stir. There was a ready-made audience for the hotel in the shape of golf-playing city dwellers of Edinburgh and Glasgow, many of whom were already familiar with the charms of Lundin Links. The year after its launch, the hotel was once again "decked with flags". This time the occasion was the return from the Boer War of Captain Jack Gilmour, of Fife and Forfar Imperial Yeomanry, son of owner of the Lundin estate, Sir John Gilmour. According to the 6 August Scotsman newspaper, "long streamers of the Gilmour colours - green and white - floated between the hotel and other buildings on the opposite side of the street". 

​The Dundee Courier from 6 August (extract below) tells of how a company of around seventy people enjoyed lunch in the hotel, presided over by hotel architect and then Captain of Lundin Golf Club, Peter Lyle Henderson. Captain Gilmour had recently become Captain-elect of Lundin Golf Club. His brother, Lieutenant Harry Gilmour, was also present at the lunch. He had also taken part in the Boer War and had returned home in March 1901, having been wounded in the head in October 1900.
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The hotel with its function rooms and public spaces hosted many special events and dinners. Early examples included retirement celebrations, Largo Curling Club dinners and Largo Silver Band events. As the 1900s went on, Lundin Links continued its growth and development. Not only were new villas being built but new facilities were appearing as well, many of which would benefit hotel guests. In 1903 new shops were erected opposite the hotel on Emsdorf Street in the site of a row of old cottages. The pharmacy and newsagent in particular would have enjoyed the custom of the hotel guests, purchasing postcards, summer requisites, fancy goods and photographic supplies. Below is an example of a postcard purchased in Young's newsagent on Emsdorf Street by a hotel guest. Sent in the 1910s, and featuring the hotel on the other side, the message states "It is a very nice building and I am inside at a game of billiards".

In 1905 the bowling green opened and the tennis courts were completed in Lundin Links, offering additional attractions for hotel guests. And in 1910 the Montrave Hall was opened, following calls from locals and summer visitors for a larger hall capable of hosting a wide range of events and entertainment. The existence of the hotel and the influence of its regular visitors likely contributed to the creation of these facilities. Lundin Links was firmly established as a holiday destination.

As early as 1911, the hotel also acted as a venue for wedding receptions. Although most marriages were celebrated at home in this era, the existence of a smart hotel in the village offered an alternative to those who could afford it. One early example was the wedding reception for the youngest daughter of Andrew Peebles of Highclere. Dora Gwendolene Peebles married George Clark at Largo Parish Church and, after the ceremony, the guests proceeded to the hotel where Mrs Peebles hosted a reception. This modern couple also had 'going-away costumes' and left the hotel directly to go on their honeymoon.

Later in Sam Duncan's years as proprietor of the hotel, it appears that he spent increasing amounts of time in Edinburgh, while live-in managers conducted the day-to-day running of the hotel (including during the years of the First World War). Mangers included Miss Law, Tom Harris and Mrs Jean Sharp. When Harris was managing the hotel in 1920 a fire broke out in the kitchen and spread to the roof. According reports in the Leven Advertiser (14 October) "Mr Tom Harris and his staff...performed wonders in holding the outbreak until the arrival of Firemaster Burnett and his men". These men from Buckhaven Fire Brigade started to cut away the roof in order to check the further progress of the flames, saving the building. Below is the previous evening's Dundee Evening Telegraph report on the incident.

With the sad loss of the Lundin Links Hotel building this week, due to a major fire, it feels appropriate to revisit the history of this iconic landmark. The next few blog posts will remember the hotel as it was intended to be - a place that people gathered for enjoyment and relaxation.  The above sketch of the brand new hotel appeared in 31 May 1900 Leven Advertiser and reminds us that when the hotel first opened its doors, travel was still primarily horse-drawn. The late Victorian era was a time of rapid development in Lundin Links. The late 1890s saw a row of shops built opposite the hotel site on Leven Road. Many new villas and boarding houses were springing up to meet demand for accommodation.

The old inn, which pre-dated the hotel, had been bought in 1897 by James McTavish, who had the vision of demolishing it and building a modern, up-market hotel to cater for the golfers and summer visitors that flocked to Lundin Links.  Construction of the new hotel was hindered when McTavish was declared bankrupt in March 1899.  Three individuals stepped in to save the project (with McTavish retained as manager).  The new investors (shown from left to right in the image below) were Samuel Duncan (McTavish’s father-in-law, a tailor from Edinburgh), Peter Henderson (the architect of the hotel), local man businessman William Bethune . All men were keen golfers and the hotel was conveniently close to Lundin Golf Club, of which Henderson was Captain at the time.

The 1899 photograph above shows the hotel part-built. At this point the roof was yet to be completed and the west side of the hotel was not yet up to its full height. The second floor arched window spaces were present but incomplete. Construction of the west-wing of the third floor was yet to be started. ​The hotel was eventually completed for the summer season of 1900, with specially-invited guests attending a preview of the premises in May. The East of Fife Record on 11 May surmised that the hotel "should secure a large clientele among the golfing fraternity". Indeed the guest list for the 24 May opening preview event included a fashionable crowd of golf enthusiasts including Edinburgh furrier John Gerrard, founder of luxury jewellers Hamilton and Inches, Robert Inches, and musician John Kenyon Lees, who had a 'Piano and Music Saloon' on Edinburgh's Frederick Street and was composer of 'The Golf Song Book'. 

The smartly-turned out party of locals and visitors can be seen in the photograph above, taken by William Drummond Young of Edinburgh (and featured in June 1900 Golf Illustrated magazine). All of this commotion and change must have been quite bewildering for the older residents of Lundin Mill. The Leven Advertiser piece recognised that one "cannot pass Lundin Links without being struck with the thorough way in which modern buildings have entirely obliterated the village, even to the name, Lundin Links, coming trippingly off the tongue of all save the older natives."

In fact the old inn had not been entirely demolished at the time of the opening of the new hotel and stood in stark contrast to the "new hotel resplendent in its fresh paint, flags and draperies." However, it was noted that the old "deserving institution" had to "give place to a building more suited to the wants of this growing and popular watering place". The modern design of the new hotel was an example of a fashion for red brick work coupled with half-timbering. The Leven Advertiser provided a detailed description of the interior, which included a flexible space on the first floor featuring a sliding partition. 
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The varied facilities had clearly been carefully planned with the target clientele in mind and took advantage of the latest innovations. Other features included electric light powered by an oil engine, modern bathrooms (no longer was there a need to bring your own bath on holiday) and an extensive laundry at the rear. All work was carried out in the "most lavish manner" by the contractors, whose details are provided below. 

As well as a tour of the building and a dinner, the 24 May event involved musical recitals and many speeches, paying tribute to the many people involved in achieving completion of the venture. Among the speech-givers was local baker Andrew Thomson who gave reminiscences of the village and golf course as he knew the place 37 years ago. He was one of the six founders of the Lundin Golf Club back in 1868. In another speech, Sir John Gilmour speculated on the type of guests that might visit the new hotel. Aside from the golfing fraternity, he spoke of city-dwelling 'week-enders', seeking some sea air to put colour in their cheeks (see newspaper extract below). 
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Cellar Brae or Cellar Braes is the promontory to the west of Lower Largo Harbour. The map above, which is dated 1843, is one of the few to clearly name the area. Below is a comparison of that map with a recent aerial view of the site. The general layout and many of the buildings remain the same, although some buildings have been lost. The large building closest to the sea has survived and is one of Largo's oldest. Now known as The Net House, pictured further below, this building began life as a salt girnel (store-house) for the adjacent salt works at Drummochy. Dating back to the 1740s, the girnel was a secure building where salt was drained and stored - an essential component of any salt works. Salt was an extremely valuable commodity at this time and a good quality, robust building was needed for secure storage. So, it is thanks to the original function and importance of the building that it has been able to stand the test of time.

With the decline of the salt industry locally in the late 18th century, the building's function had to evolve. For a time, it was used as a granary (separate from the granary on the other side of the harbour, now part of the Crusoe Hotel). The 1932 Largo Village Book states that historically "grain was stored for shipping" at Cellar Braes. However, by the late 19th century, and for many decades, the building and surrounding ground was used to store fishing gear and to dry nets (hence the building's present name of The Net House). There are a few images below that feature nets hung out to dry all around the area.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, salmon stake nets ran out to sea in front of the Net House (see image below). Throughout that time, valuation rolls show that the Cellar building and Lundin Salmon Fishings were owned by Lundin Estate. These facilities were tenanted initially by Andrew Greig Anderson, Edinburgh fishmonger, in the late 19th century and then by  Joseph Johnston and Sons Limited of Montrose (a long-established salmon fishing business with interests the length of the east coast) in the early decades of the 20th century.
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By the mid-1930s, Cellar Braes began to change into more of a recreational space. The Largo Parish Community Council rented the area and organised for benches and a shelter to be put in place for the comfort of those enjoying the views across the harbour. The old path which used to run around the seaward side of the Net House was re-routed to the landward side of the building.  The old path route with its unguarded sea wall was not without its risks, as the ​9 April 1935 Leven Advertiser piece below demonstrates. The man who fell over the edge onto the rocks was staying at 'Westhaven' - a house opposite Cellar Brae (see map further below). In the early 1970s, the now semi-derelict net house building was restored and converted into a private dwelling. The sea wall was heightened for safety.
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As well as being the site of private homes, the Cellar Braes of today continues to offer benches, views and space to relax. The former shelter (seen on map and image above) is long gone but a patch of concrete indicates where this once was.  This multi-functional corner of the village has a rich history. Featured in artworks and offering a fine viewing space for events at the harbour, it continues to be a characterful part of the Largo landscape.

A bleaching green is an open outdoor space, upon which cloth was spread to dry and by whitened by sunlight. They were especially common in areas where textiles were produced. Linen weaving became the major industry in rural Scotland from the 1750s and in the Largo villages, linen hand loom weaving became a common occupation. The above image shows the bleaching green at the Temple (now a car park). The image shows a small amount of cloth spread out to dry in the corner of the green. The Old Statistical Account (1792) for Largo Parish describes weaving as "the principal manufacture" with "linen and checks" being most common. According to the book "Flax and Linen in Fife through the Centuries' by P.K. Livingstone, linen was "a fabric of plain weave, made from the stem fibres of flax" and check was "a pattern of cross lines forming small squares, as in a chess board". Some flax was grown locally but most was imported. 

Note that the above states that "almost every weaver, and a good number of others, have their bleaching ground, where they prepare linen". Hand looms weavers worked at home, in a room or outbuilding containing a large loom. Some may have used their own outside space for bleaching but others made use of communal bleaching greens. These common greens were leased to the feuars of surrounding properties under long-term arrangements. The linen manufacturing process involved many stages and was not complete until the cloth had spent time outdoors to bleach.

According to the 1932 'Largo Village Book', "up to 1850 there was a loom in every house in Lower Largo, Drummochy and Lundin, and much linen was made." In fact weaving was not limited to those places but also took place in Kirkton of Largo, along at the Temple and of course at Emsdorf. It may even be that the village of Emsdorf was feued from 1802 with weaving in mind. The majority of houses built there had deliberately low ceilings so that loom heads could be fixed to them yet could be easily reached by the weaver. 'Linen HLW' was by far the predominant occupation in Lundinmill (particularly around Emsdorf) in the 1841 census (see example page below).
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Some of the known communal bleaching greens around the Parish are shown on the map below. These are: 

1. Pump Green in Emsdorf
2. Green to the West of Drum Lodge (close to Joiner's Workshop)
3. Temple Green
4. The foot of the Serpentine (known as Tam's Den)
5. The Grove - Upper Largo

All of those of close to a water source - either a burn or a well or water pump, as the linen was sprinkled with water during the bleaching process.
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Woven linen was naturally a tan colour, so bleaching was essential. The linens were laid out on grass for several days. The cloth became whiter by the day until reaching an optimum level of whiteness. It was a slow process but one that was effective and did not result in any weakening of the fabric. However, having the product of your labours lying outdoors came with some risks. High winds, wandering animals and thieving hands could all be a problem.

The newspaper archives are full of reports of thefts from bleaching greens. A couple of examples are shown below. The story from Crail is from the 2 September 1824 Fife Herald and tells of the theft of a "web of cloth" (the web is the result of weaving the weft threads over warp threads) from the village bleaching green, the two women involved being "drummed through the town" as a punishment. The same newspaper on 20 October 1831 cautions readers in Cupar of a series of thefts from bleaching greens there. In 1839, two men were jailed for 40 days for stealing clothes from a bleaching green in St Monance.

The 'Largo Village Book' tells of how owners of the bleaching linen at Tam's Den near the Serpentine in Largo used to "sit on the banks all night in summer to see that no one stole the cloth". No doubt this type of supervision of the wares was a fairly common practice. 

The bleaching green in Emsdorf was known then as 'Pump Green', owing to the water pump sited there. The green covered a much larger area than the remnant left today would suggest.  As Esther Menzies wrote in her 1974 memoires, the green there was... 

"surrounded by a high stone wall following the line of the posts and chain there at present but protruding in an arc for several yards at the south end.  There was a gap of about four yards with an iron pump with a turning knob....The washing was laid out to bleach in the curved end and we did not play on the green if the washing was there.  At other times it was a playground.  The grass patch beyond was near oblong.  It was crossed by paths - one leading round by the curved wall to Emsdorf Place Houses, another at the east edge in front of their doors and another from Woodlands Road cutting through to meet the one passing alongside the Pump Green wall and leading up to the HIllhead."

One of the Emsdorf Place houses was for many decades named 'Green House' owing to its position adjacent to the green but the name was lost as the former use of the space faded from collective memories. Handloom weaving also vanished from the villages as power loom factories took over the manufacture of textiles. The bleaching of clothes became an indoor process thanks to the development of bleaching powders. However, traces of former bleaching greens and surviving weavers cottages still contribute to the character of the villages in Largo and many other towns and villages. Below is an evocative photograph of a green in Pittenweem being well-used in days gone-by.  If you know of other bleaching greens around Largo Parish, please leave a comment.
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