The Durham Hall building started out as the Durham Female Industrial School, founded in 1859 by Mrs Dundas Durham of Largo House. The school provided girls with a curriculum that included both traditional education and training in domestic ‘industry’ (e.g. sewing, knitting and laundry). From the start the building was also used outside of school hours. For example, the Volunteer Force (established in Fife in 1860) held drills in the school and its grounds. When a company of the Boys’ Brigade was started in Largo in 1909, the Durham School was chosen as its meeting place. The Parish Council held meetings there and the Red Cross ran classes in first aid and home nursing.

The school did enrol both girls and boys for much of its existence and in 1911 the school underwent modernisation. A new chimney was built, a partition was added to divide the largest classroom, and a laundry room was created with washing tubs and a cooking range (these features are marked on the floor plan image further down the page). These works enabled new ‘practical instruction and continuation classes’ to take place covering laundry, cookery, dress-making, upholstery, woodwork, book-keeping and shorthand. 

​After a spell lying empty after the war, St David’s Parish Church bought the building in 1955. Tradesmen from the congregation worked to repair the roof, remove a wall to create the large hall and install an up-to-date kitchen. The architect-drawn floor plans show the layout before (above) and after (below) this work was carried out (source H.E.S.).

​Completed in August 1957, the renovated hall was formally dedicated the following month (see full report on that from 2 October 1957 Leven Mail below). In May 1958, a concert party took place to thank the men who had helped convert the former school. Around 150 people packed into the hall to be entertained by singing, monologues and music from the piano and oboe. Tea was then served and the evening was rounded off with a dance.

Over the years that followed, the hall was used for many activities including the Church Youth Club, Boys Brigade, Brownies and Guides, coffee mornings, jumble sales, meetings and as a polling station for elections. ​In the 1970s the hall was extended to provide further space. The new addition was named the Mackie Room after a church member who had left a bequest. This room originally had a flat roof (seen in the top black and white photograph) but this was changed to the present sloping roof in the 1990s - see far left part of the hall in the image below. This year, the Durham Hall will act as the hub for Largo Arts Week 2021 - for more on that see https://www.largoartsweek.com/.
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The image above, which appears in the book 'Seatoun of Largo' by Ivy Jardine, shows what is now the Temple Car Park. The Cardy Net Factory can be seen behind the many boats pulled up from the beach (including what might be the Semiquaver - the largest boat, resting adjacent to the factory). To the right and slightly elevated is a roofless old building - a former school. The 1853 Ordnance Survey name book helpfully describes the school as follows:

"Durham's School: A school in the hamlet of Temple, erected by subscription in 1836. The teacher is a female who receives a salary from Mrs Durham of £20 per ann. also school fees. It is attended by about 60 scholars."

This provides a definite date of 1836 for the origin of the school and tells us that this was a 'subscription school' i.e. the school was organised and governed locally and parents paid a fee for children's attendance. Like many village schools of the time, it was single roomed and had only one teacher (in 1853 this was Miss Caroline Spence). Also mentioned in the 1853 name book are the other local schools, namely: the Emsdorf School (built 1821 and also attended by around 60 pupils) and the old Kirkton School (which was attended by around 150 scholars at the time).

The newspaper item below from the 18 May 1837 Fifeshire Journal confirms the 1836 origin and tells us that General Durham was actively involved in the school's establishment. This is General James Durham of Largo House (1754-1840). It also mentions that the teacher in 1837 was a Mr Wilson. Interestingly, the piece notes that the establishment of the school had been resisted by many.
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General Durham died at Largo House in 1840 and was succeeded in his Largo estate by his nephew Thomas Calderwood Durham of Polton. The latter died only two years later, also at Largo House, and was succeeded by his brother Admiral Sir Philip Charles Henderson Calderwood Durham. Philip died in 1845 in Naples and his estates at Largo and Polton passed to his niece Lilias Dundas Calderwood Durham (the daughter of Thomas Calderwood Durham). She was the widow of Robert Dundas of Arniston, who had died in 1838.

Unsurprisingly, as decades passed, the small subscription school became inadequate for the needs of Lower Largo. A site on Donaldson's Wynd was selected for a bigger, more substantially-built school (see map below from 1866 which features both schools). The 1861 census for Lower Largo lists two school buildings: a 'subscription school (empty)' and a 'female school'. A newspaper piece (see further below) from 15 June 1910 Leven Advertiser states that "the Durham school was founded in 1859 by Mrs L. D. C. Durham". Mrs Durham spent time at Largo House between 1845 and 1868 and took a great interest in the local community and especially in education. In her later years, she sold the Largo estate to William Johnson of Lathrisk in 1868 and settled at Polton. She died in 1883 in Lanzo, Italy.
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The 1862 Westwood's Directory notes within the Largo section that "a new female industrial school" had been built in Lower Largo, with a Miss Robertson in charge. This new school also became known as the Durham School. Mrs Dundas Durham (1799-1883) is pictured below (courtesy of National Portrait Gallery, London). The marble memorial tablet to her within Largo Church is also shown below. 
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The Durham school remained in active use long after the era of the Durham family in Largo. While control of the schools at Kirkton and Lundin Mill transferred to Largo School Board in 1872 with the passing of the Education Act, the Durham school stayed under the control of the Kirk for many years thereafter. The 'Largo Village Book' of 1932, in its section about schools, after mentioning the schools in Kirkton and Lundin Mill, says:

"There is yet another school in Donaldson's Wynd. This is just above Lower Largo, known as the Durham School. This did not pass out of the Church's hands nearly as soon but remained under the management of the Kirk Session till after 1892. A lot of children used to go to the Durham School. There was always a school-mistress there and latterly the younger children went. A few years ago, however, it was closed as a regular school and has now been fitted up for classes, and here the Continuation Classes are held."

A footnote further explains that it was 1895 that the Kirk Session ceased to manage this school. The reason that it did so was due to the need for extensive repairs and improvements for which the Kirk Session had no funds. The Largo Village Book also tells us that the school evolved from a regular school into a continuation school earlier in the twentieth century. The newspaper archives tell us that the building was altered in 1911 to improve heating, lighting and use of space, plus fit it up for cookery and laundry lessons. The advert above from the 28 September 1911 Leven Advertiser lists some of the continuation classes available following the building's refurbishment.

​Below is a photograph of the Durham school (now Durham Hall) in the mid-1970s. Now 160 years old, the building is still serving the local community well.
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The road annotated on the aerial photo above is Durham Wynd, which runs down from the A915 close to Largo House to Lower Largo's Main Street near the Orry. Some folks will still know this road as 'Donaldson's Wynd', as that was how this road was referred to for around a century. Until recent decades there were almost no buildings on either side of this road - it was bounded by fields on both sides. As such, references to it in historical records are scarce. Below is a rare early reference to Donaldson's Wynd from the 4 April 1878 Fife Herald.

Occasional references to Donaldson's Wynd continue to appear in the newspaper archives from then up until the late 1950s. The alternative name of 'Durham Wynd' eventually began to appear in parallel, especially from around 1929, when some houses were build adjacent to it (see example further below from the 16 March 1929 St Andrews Citizen).

​In fact, as far back as 1892 the dual name of the road was acknowledged - see below from the 17 September 1892 St Andrews Citizen. This piece calls the road "Donaldson's or the Durham School Wynd". Of course, it makes sense for the road to be referred to as 'Durham School Wynd' as the new Durham School was built on it circa 1860 (more on that in a future post). But where might the original name of 'Donaldson' have come from?

A likely origin of the name Donaldson's Wynd would be that it was named after David Donaldson (or one of his forebears). Like many of the inhabitants of early 19th century Lower Largo he was a hand loom weaver but crucially he was one of the few inhabitants to actually live on this road. The only houses located on it then were those found at the foot of the wynd close to the Orry. David Donaldson lived in one of these. David also held an official position of importance within the community. His name appeared on advertisements for teaching staff at the original Durham School (located at the Temple car park). Applicants were to apply directly to him, suggesting that he was perhaps clerk to the school board or equivalent body. Notices below from 14 March 1839 Fifeshire Journal and 27 May 1841 Fife Herald respectively provide examples.
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David Donaldson died in 1852 aged 78. Perhaps when the new Durham School was erected on the wynd a few years later, close to his former home, a name was needed and his was chosen. Whether the wynd already bore his name before his death or whether it was named in his memory is unknown but the name certainly stuck long after his passing. If you know any more about the origins of the name 'Donaldson's Wynd' please comment.

The wynd is quite steep at its lower end and many of the mentions of it in the newspaper archives relate to accidents that have taken place there. A few examples of these are given below...

Anyway, over the last century, the road has become increasingly built up on both sides as the aerial view at the start of this post shows. Successive housing developments over several decades have seen it transform into something that would be quite unrecognisable to David Donaldson. In spite of the change to 'Durham Wynd' over time, the Donaldson name lives on both in the memories of many and in the name of the small housing development at the top end of the road - Donaldson's Court.

Kirkton of Largo Primary School's present building was completed in 1879 replacing the former school (later Scout Hall) further down North Feus in Upper Largo. A comparison of the building as it looks in the present day with old architect drawings downloaded from Canmore (the national record of the historic environment), shows that the school has lost many of its original ornate features including the steeple, chimneys and the barge boarding on the roof apexes. The drawings are dated to the time of the 1910 additions and alterations by Haxton and Watson of 5 High Street in Leven but reflect the original 1878 design by John Melvin & Son of Alloa. The floor plan below shows the separate girls and boys entrances at the front and some detail on the classroom layouts and other facilities.

The building of this school was preceded by years of debate and controversy. A summary of the saga was published in the 15 November 1877 Fife Herald under the headline "An Irrepressible School Board". Pointing out that "school board squabblings" had once been more common but had "long since settled down", aside from "one board which has not yet given up the ghost on contention".  The piece continues:

"During the weary four years of its existence it has been going from bad to worse...In the Largo School Board, which has been the scene of so many wordy warfares, the great topic of contention has been the propriety of erecting a new school or enlarging the old school at Kirkton. With singular variableness the Board, or rather a section, has oscillated from one proposition to the other."

The Education (Scotland) Act of 1872 had made primary education mandatory. This triggered the creation of 1,000 regional school boards and led to the need to increase many a school's capacity. Kirkton School had an average attendance of around 90 pupils around 1874. An early idea was to build a new classroom at the back of the existing school. This suggestion was met with objection from the then teacher who said this plan "broke up and destroyed his garden"! 

A counter proposal of building out at the front of the school was also deemed unacceptable (and led to the board member who suggested it retiring in disgust). It was then resolved to lower the floor (in order to effectively heighten the roof). Some outlay was incurred to do this work but not long afterwards it was concluded that a new school was needed after all. Ratepayers protested at this and much debate ensued about a suitable location. The site eventually chosen next to the cemetery was deemed by many to be "unhealthy".

Other newspaper reports on the proceedings of the Largo School Board around this time talk of "hot words", walk outs and "disgraceful conduct". The Fife Herald piece concludes that "there must be a screw loose somewhere when in a company of representative parishioners things have come to such a pass."

Eventually the new school was built and its first head teacher was Thomas Nicoll who remained in post for 35 years bringing welcome stability. His successor David Low Pye was head teacher for over twenty years. Below is a little snippet from the school's history, telling of a scheme to provide lunch to school pupils in 1896 (21 November St Andrews Citizen). The idea of vegetables from the Largo House gardens being made into soup by a lady that lived in North Feus and given to the Kirkton pupils is a lovely one - local food supplies being put to good use with no 'food miles' or packaging involved.
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This sketch appeared in the Dundee Evening Telegraph on 5 May 1903. However, I suspect the sketch was done perhaps around a decade before that date, as there is no development on the south side of Crescent Road. It likely dates to a similar era to the photograph in an earlier post - click here. 

The article that accompanies the sketch describes how the "Leven and Lundin Links are held on lease by the three local clubs - Innerleven, Thistle, and Lundin - the proprietors being Sir John Gilmour, Bart. of Lundin and Montrave, and Mr R.M. Christie of Durie. The three clubs have equal right to the privileges of the course, and a Committee of two from each Club constitute the Board of Management, with the indefatigable worker on behalf of Thistle, Mr J.T. Ireland as Secretary."

The piece goes on to describe each hole on the course, as it was then, by name and in some detail (a topic for a future post). A visitor could buy a monthly ticket for 6s. The course record was 74 - held by David Kinnell. Memberships were 200 for Innerleven, 500 for Lundin and 650 for Thistle (1350 total). It's also noted that "a two-inch waterpipe runs the whole length of the course, and the greens are not allowed to starve for want of refreshing moisture. Three men are constantly employed on the links."

The houses shown in the background of the image are accurately drawn. From left to right these are: 'Fir Park'/'Braddan' (now 5-7 Crescent Road); 'Elphinstone'; 'Melville Cottage' (now Old Calabar); School and Schoolhouse; 'Bayview Cottage' (now Oldfield) and 'Murree Lodge' (now Glenairlie - No.23).  Interestingly, the latter house looks quite different today. The sketch shows a much smaller, symmetrical home. Since then Glenairlie has been significantly extended to the left. The stretch of Crescent Road shown dates back to the years immediately following the opening of the railway (and the stalled attempt to expand the village by then owners Standard Life Assurance Company). These houses were once referred to locally as "The Cottages".

The open ground upon which the golfers are practising would soon be developed - with a road constructed alongside the new house named 'Norvil' (see here for a later image of the same area). The 'fashionable' nature of the village and the building of proper services and infrastructure meant that the expansion of Lundin Links really took off in the years that followed.

Very exciting news today!

Historic Environment Scotland (HES) have released a huge number of newly digitised photographs that were taken around rural Scotland in the 1970s. The images were originally gathered by The Scottish Countryside Commission, many during a survey of C-listed buildings. The full collection is available to view at canmore.org.uk. There are many of Lundin Links, Lower Largo and Upper Largo. Full details of the release here:

https://www.historicenvironment.scot/about-us/news/newly-digitised-images-tell-story-of-rural-scotland-in-1970s/

Permission has been granted for specially downloaded watermarked versions of the images to be displayed on blogs, so this will be a fantastic resource for this site to tap into. The images will no doubt pose questions and inspire new lines of research. Here is a small selection of the local scenes that particularly caught my attention (downloaded according to the guidelines and with watermarks displayed under each)...

Above are some of the Leven Road shops in Lundin Links while below are:

• 'Beechwood' the 1895 villa that faces these shops;
  
• the old Lundin Mill School on Crescent Road photographed soon after the move to the new school;
• the Old Manor Hotel in its Beach Hotel days;
• Cardy Net Factory;
• Lower Largo Post Office (more recently home to Very Crafty);
• and Wilson's shop in Upper Largo.

Loads more to see on-line - enjoy!

The beginnings of the school on Crescent Road have been covered here before but not the teachers that taught there in its early days. The first teacher at the newly built Lundin Mill School appears to have been James Millar. Born in Midlothian, he was in his early twenties when he took up his post at the school in 1858 and by the following year he married a local lass and started a family. By 1863, James and Isabella Millar had three children and shortly after the birth of the third, they moved to Edrom in the Berwickshire when James had a brief spell teaching there. In September 1864 he moved to take up the mastership of Selkirk Burgh School. He remained there for 26 years before retiring in 1890 and emigrating to California, where he died in 1907.

James Millar's replacement at Lundin Mill around 1863 had been Isaac Nevin. Isaac spent around 2-3 years at Lundin Mill before moving on to St Monans where he was school master for 42 years. A well-known and active member of the St Monans community, he died in 1911.

Around 1865 or 1866, Thomas Sime replaced Isaac Nevin at Lundin Mill School. Thomas Sime was born in Kingsbarns in 1844 to James Sime and Margaret Jamieson. James was an agricultural labourer turned coal miner - the family moved to Durie Broom, Scoonie due to this change of work. In 1851, Thomas and his three siblings were school children there. Another move followed as James became manager of an ironstone mine outside St Andrews. The 1861 census finds the family in Strathkinness with father and eldest son ironstone mining while second son Thomas was a 'pupil teacher' aged 17. 

​While teaching at Lundin Mill, on 20 September 1866, Thomas married Isabella Middleton at Park Place, Stirling. She was a farmer's daughter from Edzell. Sadly, the couple lost babies at birth in both 1867 and 1868 and this perhaps was a factor in their relocation to Kilconquhar in ​1868. Thomas Sime replaced Peter Proudfoot as school master there. Proudfoot himself had moved to Leuchars, where he would teach for over thirty years. A pioneer of golf at Elie, Proudfoot apparently helped old Tom Morris to lay out the course there. Proudfoot died at Burnbrae, Largo in 1907, where he had been residing with a daughter.

Thomas Sime remained at Kilconquhar from 1868 until his death. He and his wife had a further seven children. Thomas was a keen golfer and a regular at Elie and St Andrews. He died suddenly at the age of 54 on 5 February 1898.  The cause of death was recorded as "(Supposed) disease of the heart".  Meanwhile, at Lundin Mill School, in 1868, Thomas Sime's successor had been David Stewart, who held the post for thirty seven years. So after a decade of school masters that stayed for a relatively short time, the school finally got its first long-term teacher.

Born in Edinburgh in 1834 to Harry Lumsden (a commission agent/paper maker's clerk/stationer manager), Frederick Roome Lumsden would become a high-profile figure in the public life of Largo and Newburn.  Here is his story.  Spending the early years of his life in Edinburgh, Frederick was by the age of 17 a 'student and teacher of English' in Edinburgh. After a spell teaching at Madras College in St Andrews, he moved to become school master at Ardrossan in the late 1850s. In 1863 he was chosen from over eighty applicants to become head teacher at Wood's School in Newburn. And so began his 44-year spell there.

Frederick had married farmer's daughter Janet Hill of Lumbo near St Andrews in 1857 and together they had at least seven children. However, in 1870 Janet died, aged just 32. The 1871 census shows Frederick living at the Newburn school house with six children, 4 bursers a cook and a housemaid. He married second wife, Catherine Craig in Montrose in 1878. She was also a school teacher and, after some years teaching in Montrose, she had recently relocated to Largo's Durham Female School (see entry from 1877 Worrall's Directory below). Together they would have at least six children. 

This website has previously covered John Wood and Wood's Hospital in Upper Largo. Perhaps lesser known is Wood's School.  Initially, in Drumeldrie and later in Newburn, this school was another legacy of John Wood's. Founded on 7th July 1659 by John Wood of Orkie (a descendant of Admiral Sir Andrew Wood), two years before his death, the grammar school was to provide free education to a maximum of six boys with the surname Wood on either their father or mother's side. The boys would be taken into the school at around the age of seven and kept to the age of 14 or 15, at which point they would be given one year's allowance to enable them to commence an honest trade. Education, board and clothing were all provided by the deed of mortification. The school also owned the Farm of Orkie in the Parish of Kettle, from which it received rent in the form of both produce (wheat, oats and barley) and money.

The notices below from the Fife Herald (30 Sep 1847 and 19 June 1856) show how places were advertised when vacancies arose. The head master in the mid-nineteenth century was Mr William Maxwell Wright, up until his death on 16 May 1848. He was described as "parochial teacher of Newburn and Master of Wood's School at Drumeldrie" although by this time to original Wood's Grammar School had amalgamated with the Parish School at Newburn. Some decades earlier the two schools had been joined such that one teacher served both - the combined school being in Newburn.

Following Mr Wright's death, the position of school master was advertised (see below from 28 Jun 1848 Aberdeen Press and Journal). Note the list of subjects taught and the substantial salary attached to the post. The eventual appointee was Mr John Brash, who was born in Mid Calder and taught in Forfarshire prior to coming to Fife. He remained in post until his death in 1862 at the age of 54.

On 2 April 1863 the Fife Herald reported on the election of a new school master. The successful candidate for this "very lucrative office" was Mr Frederick Roome Lumsden. He was chosen from a "great number of applicants, the emoluments of the situation being very attractive" - there were over eighty candidates. Edinburgh-born Lumsden came to Newburn from Ardrossan. He would prove to be an ideal choice - becoming a prominent local figure and filling the school master role for 44 years - more to follow on him.

The map above shows the close proximity of Drumeldrie in the lower left and Newburn to the top centre (with the school marked). The daily routine of the school bursars is detailed below, giving a real insight to the lives of the boys who attended Wood's School in the nineteenth century. This is an extract from the 1873 Commissioner's report on the school. The report also states that "the boys are treated as part and portion of the master's family".

Born in Kilconquhar in 1853 to shoemaker William Nicoll and his wife Mary Young, Thomas Nicoll was the predecessor to David Pye as Head Master of Kirkton of Largo School. By the age of 17 in 1871 Thomas was Pupil Teacher at Kilconquhar. Two years later he was appointed assistant at Pathhead Subscription School. At the time, the Fife Free Press (6 December 1873) described him as "an accomplished young teacher....bred in Kilconquhar Parish School....spoken favourably of by several other members of the Board".

In September 1875, there was a special meeting of the Largo School Board - the purpose of which was to elect a master for Kirkton Public School. Each Board member handed in a list of three candidates - 13 men being named in total. The 16 September Fife Herald noted that "it was agreed that each member should select his best man and thereby reduce the leet to 5" however "there was considerable difficulty in agreeing the manner of election, as each member proposed his own man as the best one, and consequently there were no seconders".  A scoring system was then agreed and a Mr Forbes of Dundee was elected. However, it transpired that this candidate had already accepted another post. So, Mr Nicoll, being second, was elected instead. And thus began Thomas Nicoll's long spell at Kirkton.

Thomas married Anne Fotheringham Morgan in 1879 and the first of their five children was born the following year. At the time of his marriage he was presented by his pupils with a "handsome marble timepiece with the latest improvements and got up in the neatest style", according to the 13 November Fife Herald. Attached to the front was a silver plate bearing the following inscription:

"Presented to Mr T. Nicoll, Teacher, Largo, Fife, by his affectionate scholars and a few friends, on the advent of his marriage. October 1879."

The Nicoll family became actively involved in local life, with Thomas being an elder in the Upper Largo Church and Secretary and Treasurer of the Lundin Golf Club (he was instrumental in the 1909 course alterations).  When wife Anne died in 1902, Thomas - who was also local Registrar - recorded her death as he did all the others in the Parish. 

After 35 years service at Kirkton School, and suffering from heart trouble, Thomas Nicoll resigned as Head Master. He died only a fortnight later.  Part of his role as Registrar was to complete the summaries of the 1911 census. The census was taken on 2 April and Thomas Nicoll worked on the resulting data with his daughter.  Apparently, after completing the census work, he had indicated to his daughter that his life's work was done. He died on 16 April at the Schoolhouse.

At a meeting soon after his death, locals "paid a high tribute to his worth and character" noting that "some of us who call recall Mr Nicoll's first years in the parish, remember him as a quiet, unobtrusive young man; but a man who, when he put his hand to the plough would not turn back". The account in the St Andrews Citizen (13 May) continued "the innumerable services rendered by him to the community during his long residence in Largo constitute a great record..."well done good and faithful servant"".