VINTAGE LUNDIN LINKS AND LARGO
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The Caseby Family

24/3/2023

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A previous blog post covered the Rodgers of Lundin - a long-standing family of old Lundin Mill. One of the Rodgers, Margaret born 1863, married John Caseby in 1886, in Burnside House, where her family had lived for generations.  John Caseby was a boot maker, who would later have a shop in Bridge House (the building to the left in the photograph below - behind the bridge) above which the family lived. The painting above depicts John Caseby at work and is entitled "The Cobbler". It was painted by David Simpson Foggie R.S.A. (1878-1948), after the Caseby family had moved from Lundin Links to Balmullo.

Dundee-born, Foggie trained at Dundee College of Art, before continuing his studies in Antwerp, Paris and Florence. He returned to Scotland in 1904 and had a cottage built on Lucklaw Hill overlooking Leuchars and Balmullo, which is where he got to know the Casebys. Foggie enjoyed painting people who worked with their hands. Farmers, fishwives, miners, shipwrights and umbrella menders were among his subjects. John Caseby, who in the 1911 census was described as Bootmaker (Handsewn) was a natural subject for David Foggie. The artist died on 2 June 1948, aged 69, after a severe attack of asthma. The Scotsman described him as “a figure painter who found beauty in ordinary life and expressed it with honesty.”
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One of John and Maggie Caseby's sons was Reverend Alexander Caseby. Alexander was born in Bridge House in Lundin Links in 1898. Inspired to become a missionary at the age of eleven, Alexander went on to do just that in Livingstonia in Malawi. Returning to Scotland after a time of ill health, he and his wife Williamina lived at Ernest Cottage in Lundin Links for a spell. Their son Cyril was born in the cottage in October 1930 and was baptised by Reverend J. Stewart Rough, in Largo St David's Church on 19 December. The children are shown in the photograph above. They are, from left to right, Sandy, Cyril, Margaret and Grant. The two older boys were twins. The Caseby family are shown again below (from left to right, Sandy, Williamina, Cyril ,Margaret, Alexander and Grant). They moved to Newmills in 1933 but continued to have a great affection for the Largo area, visiting often. 

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​Living in Ernest Cottage, the family were very close to Daniel Ramage's garage. Ramage operated a bus service and later ran the Upper Largo garage for a spell. In the image above, Sandy, Cyril and Grant Caseby can be seen in front of one of Ramage's buses inside the garage. Note the D. Ramage, Lundin Links written along the bus in small lettering below the larger ‘Ramages’ logo. Cyril kindly shared these family photographs, including the one below of his wife Gladys, daughter Alison and son Derek, standing in front of Ernest Cottage in 1971. 

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Cyril's father, Alexander died in 1991, aged 93. He had written the piece below in 1970 for Largo St David's Parish Church Quarterly Magazine. In the article, he notes that his mother Maggie Rodger was from a line of Rodgers going back 200 years in Lundin Mill. Reverend Caseby also participated in the bicentenary of Largo St David's Church in 1971 (see extract below from the programme of events). The Caseby family are proud of their Rodger heritage and this name continues to run through the family to the present day. Cyril's younger brother is Ronald Rodger Caseby (and Ronald's son is named Rodger). 

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With many thanks to Cyril Caseby for the wonderful photographs and the information about the Rodgers and the Casebys.
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Heritage Week '84

10/3/2023

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In August 1984 a Largo Heritage Week was held, involving a range of events and exhibitions. The above photograph was taken at a Scots Night held on the lawn at Cardy House. Around 140 people took part in this particular event which featured highland dancing displays organised by local dance teacher Ida Ballingall. Ida can be seen in the centre of the photograph with her accordion, a portable source of backing music for the dancers. Other musical contributions to the night included harp-accompanied singing by Christine St Clair, who was there with her mother and well-known sister Isla St Clair.

The 1st Largo Brownies also played a part in the evening, under the leadership of Brown Owl, Joy Spence (standing second from far right in the photo). The Brownies served tea and some of their recent handiwork was also on display at the event. Organiser of the event, Ivy Jardine, can be seen to the left of the highland dancers, wearing a white blouse and long tartan skirt. Her eldest son Allan is on the extreme right of the picture, holding bagpipes. He played the pipes daily during the heritage week, and rounded off the Scots Night, piping from the roof of Cardy House next to the flagpole, which was flying the saltire. Below is another image from the evening, as printed in the East Fife Mail, showing the dancers in action and Ida in the right foreground, playing the accordion. 

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​The Heritage Week began on 3 August and was officially opened by Sir John and Lady Gilmour - seen in the photograph below alongside Ivy and T.A. Jardine of Cardy House. Jimmy Shand the famous Fife-born accordion player is on the far left of back row and Professor Gordon Donaldson, historiographer to the H.M The Queen in Scotland, is in the centre (holding a piece of paper). The latter had the task of picking the winners of a heritage photography competition. 

​Cardy House was thrown open to the public during the week. Unchanged since Victorian times, the house had remained in the same family for many generations. With original décor and furnishings, the house also contained a fascinating collection of pictures, documents and memorabilia from across the decades. At the time, original paraffin lamps were still in use, as were five grates which required to be black-leaded. An early gramophone was in much demand during the open house, with records from 1890 to 1930 available to listen to upon request. Displays of flowers adorned the house, designed and tended by members of Leven Floral Art Club. 


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Among the other festivities of the week were a vintage car exhibition, an evening of Victorian poetry, an out of season Burns Night, an art exhibition in the Gillies Studio, a heritage display beneath the Robinson Crusoe statue and a disco in Man Friday's cafe. The Largo Children's Gala also coincided with the event - taking place on Saturday 4 August at Durham Park (a fancy dress procession having made its way there from the Orry at 1pm). Stalls at the Gala included smash the crockery, splat the rat and take-a-wicket. Races and 'It's a Knockout' also featured on a day of glorious sunshine. Several thousands of people attended the week-long programme of events and many local people contributed to what was a real community effort.

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A heritage photographic exhibition took place in the Durham Hall, attracting many visitors, with the ladies of the Largo St David's Women's Guild providing refreshments. This exhibition included entries for the joint East Fife Mail and Largo Heritage competition. The newspaper photograph above from the East Fife Mail shows the competition prize winners. 
The winner of the first prize was Margaret Smart of Durham Crescent, for her image of a friend examining an old milestone (see below). Second prize went to Craig Roberts for his close-up photograph of freshly caught fish, while the under-12 category winner was Catherine Kidd who had snapped fishing nets. With the 200th anniversary of the Crusoe Hotel building coming up next year, then the 350th anniversary of the birth of Alexander Selkirk in 2026, could another heritage week be a possibility? 

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With many thanks to Craig Stirrat for the photograph at the top of this post.
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Lost Buildings of Drummochy

3/3/2023

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The above photograph was captured by John Patrick the Buckhaven-born photographer. The image dates to around 1870, by which time Patrick had moved his photography business from Leven to Kirkcaldy. The photograph may have been commissioned in connection with the sale of the Lundin Estate at the time, as a visual indication of the boundary between the Lundin estate and the Largo estate. Drummochy to the left (west) of the Keil Burn fell within the Lundin estate. Note that at this time a couple of houses still featured thatched roofs.
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In the 'then and now' pair of images above, the half-thatched building to the right of Drummochy House (the tallest house with bay windows in the newer image) has been replaced with garages. For a time, the space where the old house once stood was a gap site. The photograph below shows that in that space there was a distinctive statue - the bust of a man on a plinth. 

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It seems likely that the demolition of the old half-thatched house coincided with the construction of Burnbrae Terrace, pictured above, built for Benjamin Philp (who died in 1892). In fact several old buildings in Drummochy have been lost since the mid-1850s when the railway arrived in Largo. While many new homes were built to the north of the railway line - along Woodlands Road as well as at Burnbrae Terrace (to the left of the word 'viaduct' on the map below) - all the homes circled in red on the lower map had disappeared by 1912.

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Among the changes were the replacement of two ruinous cottages on feu number 40 with the detached villa 'Fernbank'. The photograph below shows the contrast between the remaining older houses at the lower level and the new villas of Woodlands Road at the top, and 'Fernbank' in the centre.
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Other lost buildings are the dark coloured ones to the left of centre in the background of the George Washington Wilson photograph below. Remains of the old walls of these structures can still be seen at the site on Cellar Brae by the benches. The tall building looks virtually identical Drummochy House being the same height, design and orientation. The modern day aerial image at the foot of this post shows the continued evolution of this area on both sides of the burn, with many old buildings replaced and gap sites filled, including some across the former path of the railway line, the old gas works and the former mill site.

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1960s Largo Harbour

24/2/2023

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Above is a 1960s view taken from Largo Pier, across the Keil towards Drummochy. Some of the detail is shown below on what was clearly a warm summer day. Note the old shelter at Cellar Braes, the people sitting on the bench next to it and the towels left on the lower part of the sea wall. Two beautiful boats are central to the image. The boat to the rear is W. Ewan Bryden's 'Greenmantle'. This photogenic vessel was a Largo fixture for a couple of decades. If you know the name of the second boat, please comment.
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The 'Fish Restaurant' that was run by the Forte family is prominent at the harbour edge in the image above. Known locally as Granny Forte's chip shop or Granny Greasers, this business operated for several decades from the 1920s. The black and white image and map below shows a collection of old outbuildings on the site prior to this. When the fish shop first appeared on the valuation roll in the mid 1920s, the building was owned by Rachel Williamson of Coventry Cottage (the cream coloured house in the centre of the detailed image below) and the tenant was Daniel Forte. Rachel was the daughter of plasterer Alexander Williamson, who may well have been involved in the construction of the building and who may have used the earlier outbuildings in his line of work. By 1930, the Fortes had bought the shop premises, as Concetta Forte, Daniel's wife, was recorded as proprietor. Daniel died in 1943 and Concetta in 1969. The fish shop building was demolished in the 1970s.

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The second image below was taken on the same day but orientated towards the viaduct and road bridge. In this photograph the caravan park can be glimpsed through the arch of the viaduct along with the gasworks. The three houses standing prominently behind the Fish Restaurant are, from left to right, Bellvue, Gullane View and Drummochy House (see map further below). 

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Interestingly, the Scottish colourist, George Leslie Hunter, produced an artwork featuring Bellvue and Coventry Cottage (see below). Captured from an interesting vantage point down at water level in the harbour, this 1920s watercolour looks up at the houses while fishing nets dry on poles to the right. The tall yellow object to the left could well be a hayrick.
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Colour photographs by James Pugh, studio photographer from Edinburgh. James became a member of the Royal Photographic Society in 1963.
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Serpentine Villa

9/12/2022

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Serpentine Villa is located on the Temple at Lower Largo, at the point where a small road branches up to the beginning of the Serpentine walk to Upper Largo. The architect plans for the dwelling were drawn up in December 1876 by James Gillespie of St Andrews, for Captain David Watson. David Watson (1851-1939) was a ship master, like his father before him, Captain John Thompson Watson (1828-1892). Both men were Largo born and had long seafaring careers with the Empire Line of London (a topic that will be returned to in the future).

Watsons had lived at the Temple for some time and it seems likely that Serpentine Villa would have been built upon the site of an earlier cottage. It was constructed adjacent to 'Bombay Lodge', a dwelling that had been built several years earlier for another globe-trotter, civil engineer Thomas Craigie Glover. The year before commissioning the architect plans, David Watson had married Elizabeth Clark Philp (daughter of Benjamin Philp, commission agent and grain merchant who lived in Drummochy House). The couple were based in Anstruther while Serpentine Villa was built and finally moved into their Largo home circa 1880, in between the births of two of their sons. As David was usually on lengthy voyages, upon which his wife and family would sometimes accompany him, their Largo home was often occupied by friends and relatives. The 3 September 1891 Fifeshire Journal's list of 'summer visitors' below gives one example of this.

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Census information shows that in 1881, Serpentine Villa was unoccupied. A decade later in 1891, Elsie Philp was living there with a servant and her nephews David and James Watson (ages 9 and 6). These were the two youngest of the four sons of Captain Watson. Elsie was one Elizabeth's maiden sisters. In 1901, the house was again unoccupied. Then by 1911, David, Elizabeth and two adult sons, David (now a banker) and James (a solicitor), were living at Serpentine Villa. David senior was described as "retired ship master" but in fact he did return to work for a spell during the First World War, before retiring for good. The newly available census data, for 1921, lists only David and Elizabeth at Serpentine Villa, with David being noted as "Shipmaster (Retired)". 

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David Watson enjoyed his retirement years at Serpentine Villa. He played golf and was an elder of Largo Parish Church. He died at home on 19 December 1939 aged 88. His widow, Elizabeth Watson (nee Philp) remained there until her death in 1946 aged 97 and then the house was put up for sale. The advert below from 18 December 1946 Leven Mail states that the house would be "easily convertible into two flats or suitable for boarding house". The house was indeed flatted and had since been extended (see photograph above).
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Below we can see the original north elevation of the house as newly built. The rear of the house can be seen at the far left of the black and white image further below. At the foot of this post is an annotated image of the west end of the Temple, naming all the dwellings, from Temple Green to Serpentine Villa.  The Temple started with Burnside Cottages (the characterful white-washed buildings which were demolished in the late 1960s), then continued with the terraced row comprising Homelea, Thistle Cottage and Kincraig. The next dwellings were Temple Cottage (now Arndilly), Bay Cottage, Bombay Lodge (later Fernielaw Cottage and now Seascape) and finally Serpentine Villa - a building which has witnessed many changes in the past century and a half.
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Margaret Paxton (1902-1966)

18/11/2022

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Margaret Baird Paxton was born on 17 February 1902 at Drum Lodge, shortly after her parents and elder sister Jessie had returned to Scotland from Texas, where her father was a rancher. Two years later her younger sister, Isabel, was born and in 1907, the fourth sibling, Emily, completed the family. The Paxtons bought their long-term home, named Homelands, in 1908. As a young teenager, during the First World War, Margaret would have been involved in the Red Cross Work Party which was based in her home and co-ordinated by her mother. The piece below, from the 17 September 1914 Leven Advertiser, tells of an early consignment of gifts from the local group. By the end of the war, over 12,000 garments had been supplied by the work parties in Largo.

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The Paxtons were involved in many charitable activities and supported several improvements to the district. For example, Mr and Mrs Paxton provided and equipped a hut to act as a social club for ex-servicemen in 1920 and funded a pitching and putting course at Lundin Golf Club in 1923. The Paxton ladies frequently ran stalls at fetes for various causes. The Royal National Lifeboat Institute was a cause that they supported regularly. Margaret was a frequent cast member in the productions of the Lundin Links Amateur Dramatics Group and was active in Largo S.W.R.I. One cause that was especially close to Margaret's heart, however, was the Girl Guiding movement. She was captain of Largo Girl Guides for many years, going by the name "Eagle Owl", and was for a spell Girl Guiding's 'Camp Secretary' for the whole of Scotland.

In 1926, Margaret's parents gifted the community a cottage for the residence of the Largo and Newburn District Nurse. The cottage stands behind the Parish war memorial (in a location chosen because it was as close as possible to the centre of the nurse's district). Robert Paxton passed away in October 1926 before the building was completed, so Mrs Paxton and her three daughters saw the project through to completion. 

When the District Nurse's Cottage opened in March 1927, the Leven Advertiser (12 March) noted the sunny southern outlook towards the Bass Rock, the telephone which was installed "so as to facilitate communication with doctors and patients" and the way in which the nurse's rooms had "been furnished with a completeness and comfort which leaves nothing to be desired." The report continued "the forethought and care which Mrs Paxton and the Misses Paxton have lavished on the cottage are evidence of how much it has been a labour of love to them". Two small gardens were laid out - one for the nurse and the other for the caretaker. The nurse's garden was tended by the Largo Girl Guides, under Margaret's direction.
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Margaret was very close to her sisters, so when elder sister Jessie set up a pioneering nursery school in Methil in 1935, Margaret supported her. Having gained experience in the nursery, Margaret was inspired to take action to meet another great need - for residential accommodation for children. She set about planning a children's home. Such a home would be for those requiring full-time care, perhaps because their parents were ill or because they had been rendered temporarily homeless. 

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Margaret enlisted the help of a large committee to support her plan and in due course an Executive Committee (see above) was set up to administer the business of the home. Upper Largo's Dr William Eggeling acted as honorary medical officer. A large dwelling close to Homelands had become vacant, called Aithernie House (today known as the Old Manor Hotel). This was owned by Silverburn's Sir David Russell. Aithernie had four public rooms (all facing south), ten bedrooms, three bathrooms, electric light, modern central heating and a wash house with laundry. The map below shows how close Aithernie was to Homelands. 
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In December 1936, Margaret wrote to Sir David Russell to say that she was "very anxious to start a children's home in Largo" as "there is no place in Fife to which necessitous children may be sent and there is a very great need for such a home". She stressed that she had "come across some very deserving cases recently". ​The initial plan was to accommodate up to 36 children. The first year's expenses were covered by friends of the Paxtons, and the hope was that wider public support would be secured once the home was up and running and could demonstrate its worth. 

In turn David Russell wrote to his lawyer enclosing the letter from Margaret Paxton. In it he emphasised that he had known the Paxtons for many years and found them to be reliable. He also referenced Jessie's good work with the Methil Nursery. He closed by saying that with regard to the proposition "he was inclined to consider it favourably". Soon afterwards, all was signed and sealed. The 11 September 1937 St Andrews Citizen below tells of the imminent opening of Fife Children's Home. 
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Six months after opening, there were twenty children in residence between the ages of 2 and 11, along with six staff (Miss Paxton, her assistant, a cook and three nurses). Margaret and her assistant Miss M. Scrymgeour Wedderburn were voluntary workers. Below are descriptions of some 'typical cases' at that time. 
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Above is a photograph of some of the early residents of the children's home. Meals were taken outdoors, when possible, to get the benefit of fresh air and sunshine. The benches and tables were no doubt hand-made by local people and the children's bibs hand-made too. One of the glasshouses in the Aithernie garden can be seen. The grounds would have been carefully nurtured over many decades and at one time would have produced a great variety of produce.
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The piece above is from 19 February 1938 Fife Free Press. The work of both Jessie and Margaret Paxton was innovative and was followed with great interest. Of course, in the 1939, the outbreak of war brought new pressures on both ventures. At Fife Children's Home there were new reasons for children requiring assistance, as fathers were called up to join the armed services. One example was a widower with six children who went to serve in the Navy on a minesweeper. Three of his children went to stay with grandparents, while three came to reside at Aithernie. Two refugees from Austria, aged 2 and 4 also came to the home. Their fees were paid by two members of the home's committee.

In July 1940 another brochure was created to highlight the work of the home in the hope that further support would be forthcoming from farther afield. Below is an extract from this brochure. While daily life had continued much as before, gas mask drills and air raid precautions were now required. 
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1941 proved to be a difficult year for Margaret. The headline above, from 6 August Leven Mail, reports on the Annual Meeting of the committee. The clear message was that the home may have to close if not better supported. In the October of the same year Margaret's mother, Margaret, died at Homelands aged 78. Unsurprisingly, all those circumstances combined, took their toll on Margaret's health and in 1942 she had to spend some time in a nursing home to recuperate.

The sixth AGM for Fife Children's Home took place in 1942. The health of Miss Paxton was referenced, as were the direct and indirect impacts of the war. Ongoing challenges included food rationing, meeting blackout requirements and air raid precautions, staffing shortages and financial issues. While day nurseries were eligible for a war-time grant, the home was not. Yet somehow the home continued to function.

However, early in 1943 the home had to close for a six-month period. This had come about because Margaret had suffered a breakdown, having had do the cooking and attend the children at night, on top of her usual role as superintendent, due to staff shortages. In July 1943, Fife County Council made a grant of £100 to Aithernie Home and it was able to reopen. At the seventh annual meeting a few weeks later, Margaret expressed her regret at the circumstances which had necessitated the closing of the home. Now, however, the home was full up and had a long waiting list. Thirty-eight cases had been dealt with during the year, nearly all being the children of service men. The health of the children had been good and they had been vaccinated against diphtheria. 

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​At the eighth annual meeting of the subscribers to Fife Children's Home in 1944 it was once again noted that Miss Paxton's health had not been so good. It was likely that Margaret continued to be overworked and was unable to give herself the time she really needed to rest and recover from earlier ill health. There had also been "very serious staffing issues". Above is an advert from 1944 for a cook for the home. Nevertheless, splendid work had been done with a considerable number of children benefitting from a stay. The war was still ongoing and sadly two key committee members had died during that year - ex-Provost Barron of Leven and Mrs Rowand of St Andrews. 

The ninth annual meeting took place in 1945. In the summary of the year, it was noted that several valuable subscribers had been lost by death and that staffing difficulties persisted. There were a few vacancies on the General Committee. Seventy children had been cared for over the year, with the waiting list remaining long. The "absence of so many men overseas had produced a very serious social problem" and many mothers found themselves having to work. The clipping below from the 12 September 1945 Leven Mail shows some of the year's highlights. An insight into the support given by local people was also given when Margaret described a "constant supply of vegetables" from Mrs Fleming and the "many friends who darn and re-foot socks and make and mend the clothes" as well as knitting, sending food and holding fundraising events.


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In 1946, after nine years of operation, the home had to close for good. Miss Paxton was no longer physically fit enough to carry out the superintendent role and repeated efforts to find a successor proved fruitless. When it became clear that the home would not continue, David Russell made plans for Aithernie to be used as a convalescent home for his workers. During its years of operation, Fife Children's Home, had cared for between 500 and 600 children between the ages of 2 and 10 years. 

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Efforts to restart a home at a different location did not come to pass, and by 1949, all of the assets of the original home had been legally transferred to the Methil Nursery run by Margaret's sister Jessie. The funds were to be used to give summer outings to the nursery pupils or for sending delicate pupils for a holiday in the country. Cots, bedding, furniture, etc also became the property of the Methil nursery. Meanwhile, Margaret left Scotland and relocated to Suffolk to begin a new chapter of her life. Ultimately, Margaret lived in Cambridge, and it was there that she died in 1966, four years after her elder sister Jessie. 

Many today still remember the assistance given by the home at Aithernie to a sibling, a parent or to themselves. Margaret's initiative benefitted hundreds of children. Her determination saw the home survive the war years when new pressures affected families. Although circumstances conspired against the continuation of the home in the end, Margaret could not have given more to the cause that was so close to her heart. The good work of Margaret and her sisters deserves to be remembered for a long time to come. 
 

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James T. Turbayne, Grocer

4/11/2022

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Above is a 'then and now' comparison of the corner of Hillhead Street and Emsdorf Crescent in Lundin Links. The top image features the former shop, as it was in the 1940s, during the tenure of James Terris Turbayne. He was proprietor from 1920 into the 1950s. The ground floor was in fact two shops - the grocer to the right, and the fruit and confectionery shop to the left, each with its own entrance. Previously, the corner shop had been David Lindsay's grocery and the smaller shop had been the chemist belonging to Peter Cowie.

The black and white postcard image is entitled "St Helen, Lundin Links", as this is the name of the home above the shops. The upstairs dwelling was built above a pre-existing single-storey shop during David Lindsay's time. Helen was the name of the mother of David's wife, Isabella Horne. The Lindsays also had a daughter named Helen (known as Nelly) who died in 1901 aged 12. A further dwelling behind the shop was named Nellfield.

The building set back to the right of the shop was likely the original stable and cart shed connected with the business, at a time when grocery deliveries were fulfilled by horse and cart. By the Turbaynes time, the shift to motor vans had taken place and one can be seen in the 1940s image. The advert for Turbayne's below states "orders called for and delivered daily by motor van".

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The shops feature a fascinating range of signage and advertising, with a number of products being clearly identifiable. In the left-hand window, at the top, there is the slogan "Eat more fruit and keep fit", which is in contrast to the wide range of chocolate advertising, including Rowntree's, Mackintosh's, Cadbury's, Fry's and Bournville. On the right-hand window a display for Chiver's Jellies is clearly seen, alongside a number of tinned foods and sauce bottles. There appear to be three different external vending machines, providing self-service buying opportunities, even when the shop is closed. One appears to be branded 'Tucker's' (a brand of toffee) while another is 'Chewlets' (gum by Mackintosh's). The other may be a beech-nut gum machine. There is also signage for ice-cream, postage stamps and Will's gold flake cigarettes. Adverts for some of those products are shown below.
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Round to the right of the front door to the grocer shop is an external sign for the Woodburn Laundry (for which Turbayne was an agent). Above is an advert for the same from 30 March 1935 St Andrews Courier. This facility was in St Andrews and boasted "open-air drying - right on sea front". Below is a photo of the actual laundry, adjacent to the Lifeboat Station at St Andrews (image courtesy of University of St Andrews, Special Collections). 

Close inspection of the Turbayne postcard photograph shows that there is a person tucked in at the left side of the motor van and that a selection of wines and spirits are on display in the shop window facing the van. The crates and boxes stacked up outside the shop may have just been taken out of the van, ready to restock the shop shelves. The person doing the unloading appears to be hiding from the photographer.
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James Terris Turbayne was born on 18 August 1876 in Kelty where his parents ran a licensed grocer shop on Main Street. In 1882 James's father Thomas died, aged just 36 years, and his mother Ann Bell Turbayne (nee Terris) continued the business until her own death in 1911. Her brother John Terris took over her shop but he still kept Ann's name over the door (see photograph below).

Meanwhile James had his own grocer on Foulford Road in Cowdenbeath by 1899, presumably having learned the trade in his mother's shop. 
He continued his grocer business in Cowdenbeath until 1920. James had experienced a succession of license application refusals in Cowdenbeath. The headline above from 13 April 1920 Dundee Evening Telegraph relates to one of his attempts to secure a license. This situation may well have prompted his move to the Lundin Links shop. 

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The two adverts below illustrate the range of wines and spirits that were stocked by James Turbayne once he had secured his license in Lundin Links. He also stocked soft drinks such as the aerated waters produced by Leven based Christopher Adamson.

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James Turbayne was widowed in 1946 but seems to have continued the main grocer's shop until his death in 1954 at the age of 77. In October 1954, Robert Leishman was granted a license for the grocers, as tenant under the ownership of Mrs Agnes Croll.  The shop seems to have been known as 'Leishman's' into the 1970s but at some point a member of the Croll family began to run the business and in the 1980s it was referred to as 'Croll's'.  

James Turbayne's eldest daughter Jeannie ran the fruit and confectionery shop for many years. She is fondly remembered for rewarding children who sang her a song with a sweetie and for her magical Christmas window display (an illuminated Santa's sleigh, filled with sweets, pulled by reindeer with nodding heads). Jeannie died in 1974 at the age of 72. Of course, this shop was converted into the Doctor's Surgery (see photograph below), however, if you look closely, you will see that it still features m
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John Ballingall (1859-1919)

7/10/2022

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The previous post covered the life of Largo-born Alexander Ballingall, who spent most of his working life as an acclaimed artist in Edinburgh. Alexander and his elder brother engraver William Ballingall were well-known for their artistic accomplishments. However, these were not the only creative members of the family. John Ballingall their younger brother was also an accomplished painter, although art was not his main occupation. John worked in Largo as a cork cutter. The above artwork entitled "Entering Port" is an example of his work. It features Largo Harbour and Pier and several fishing boats. Like his brother Alexander, John frequently opted to portray marine and fishing scenes.

John was born in 1859, the ninth of the ten children of weaver and amateur astronomer William Ballingall senior and his wife Jane (Jean) Wilson. While the majority of his siblings moved away to Edinburgh for work, John remained in Lower Largo. At the time of the 1881 census, John was a journeyman cork cutter (perhaps having learned the trade from one of the other local cork cutters in Largo such as Edward Johnston or John Edmonson Miller) and the only of the siblings living at home with his parents. As a cork cutter, he likely had close ties with both the fishing community and the net factory.

In 1883, John married Annie McIntosh in Edinburgh and she joined him in Largo. The first of their eight children, William, was born the following year but he sadly died aged just two and a half. By the time of the 1891 census, there were four children in the household and John's occupation was described as 'cork manufacturer'. At this time, the family were living in part of Goodsir House. 
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Although John had probably always painted, it was during the 1890s that John's artwork received more attention. Several of his known paintings date to this decade - for example the work "Sailing Boats at Moonrise" above is clearly dated 1894.
It was also in 1894 that John featured in the newspapers when a message in a bottle he had set off on the sea at Largo on 22 November 1893 washed up five weeks later in Norway. Mid-November 1893 had brought the worst storms for many a year to the east coast and loss of life had been great (well over 200 persons). John had reflected upon the disaster with his young sons and had decided to send off a letter, along with his card and instructions for the finder. He was also moved to offer a watercolour painting with proceeds donated to the Lifeboat Institution, who had saved many lives during the storm. Full details are below, from the 20 January 1894 St Andrews Citizen. Note that the bottle has been corked and wrapped in cork. 
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John's role as an artist must have flourished, as the notice below from the 7 January 1897 Leven Advertiser below tells of the exciting news that he had moved to "new and commodious premises opposite the U.P. Church" where there was a large exhibition room for his oil and water-colour paintings. This premises was at Forthview Place in the part which would later become the Leven Reform Co-operative Society shop. In 1898 he also had a seascape displayed at the Royal Scottish Academy in Edinburgh.

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However, on 25 August 1899, John was admitted to the Fife and Kinross District Asylum in Springfield with melancholia. This was the first bout of an illness from which he would never recover. At the time of the 1901 census, John was still a patient there. His wife and seven children were still living at Forthview along with a lodger but in 1902 the house and shop were sold to David Watson and shortly afterwards the Leven Reform Co-operative Society took up the shop lease. John was still in the same asylum in 1911, while Annie had relocated to Bridge House in Lundin Links and was working as a boarding house keeper. John died in Springfield at the asylum in 1919. His death notice is below, stating that the funeral party would arrive at Largo crossroads at 2 o'clock. Annie died in 1929. If you know more about John Ballingall or have further images of his work, please get in touch. Another of his seascapes, "Fishing Boats by Moonlight", is shown below.
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The Net House Restoration

18/8/2022

1 Comment

 
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On 14 July 1971, under the headline "Face-lift at Granary", the East Fife Mail reported on the restoration of the former salt girnel/granary/net store building at Cellar Brae. The photograph above shows the work underway, at the stage when the roof was being replaced but the sea wall had yet to be heightened. Below are a few images taken in the mid-1970s, just a few years after completion. The conversion into a "seaside cottage" was carried out for "Mr John Gilmour, elder son of the Conservative M.P. for East Fife, Sir John Gilmour, Bt". Then aged 26, Mr Gilmour and his wife first decided to restore the granary in 1969 when they "noticed that it was literally falling to pieces and decided that we had to preserve it".  

In explaining the former uses of the building, Mr Gilmour said "in the past the Cellar Brae granary has been put to a variety of uses. At first it was of course a place where local grain was stored before being shipped across the Forth to Leith but that trade died out over a hundred years ago." He continued "for many years it was used by local fishermen as a storehouse for their nets and lobster pots but at one time it even housed a joiner's business." It's interesting that the real original use of the building as a salt girnel had at this point apparently been forgotten.

The building in fact had mixed use for long periods of time. Note that local joiner Alec Tait had workshop space within the granary building from around 1920 into the 1960s, his father David Tait having had the workshop there before him from the early 1890s. This overlapped with use as a granary and then a net store. It was the building's affinity with the village's fishing industry that Mr Gilmour was keen to maintain. At the time of the newspaper piece he was contemplating a suitable name for the finished dwelling. "Perhaps we will call it the 'Net House'. I think that would be an appropriate name for the cottage".  And so it came to pass that the house was given that name, when the restoration work was completed in 1972 - the name which it still goes by today. 

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In 1984 the building was given a category B listing, in recognition of its architectural and historical interest. A great example of a mid-eighteenth century structure in a local style and with a varied past use, its listing description is given as:
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2 storey, boulder rubble with large sandstone lintels to ground floor, and low buttresses to long sides. South elevation has arched door near centre with stugged ashlar dressings and deep flanking buttresses, 2 windows left and 3 right; 3 small, first floor windows, window over door, raised through eaves with catslide roof, large modern studio window with gabled head. Glazed doors in east gable. North elevation irregular fenestration, 6 ground and 4 1st floor window. Pantiled roof with slate easing course, skews and 2 stacks. Curved boulder rubble wall to south remains of west pier, probably 18th century, with steps down to water, and low bastion enclosing circle of setts at site of horsemill.

The image below shows the setts at the site of a horse mill between the building and the sea wall. The date of this feature is unclear but likely aligns to the years when the site was used as a granary.
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The photographs above show the west-facing gable end pre- and post-conversion. The high window suggests the earlier presence of a forestair to an entrance at the upper level. The extent of the heightening of the sea wall can also be seen in the post-restoration image.  The conversion to a private dwelling was carried out by Leven architect firm L.A. Rolland and Partners and the project won a Civic Trust heritage award. The design by David Pirie sought to maintain the original character and tradition of this imposing structure. 

Described as a "derelict stone bothy" which had been neglected for years, one specific requirement of the restoration was that the external walls were left unharled. Commenting in the 25 June 1975 East Fife Mail, Mr Rolland noted that "five years ago people didn't do nearly so much of this type of restoration but people are now more aware of the value of such properties". He continued "there is more of this work done in Fife than other places, not only because of conservation societies, but because there are some very nice buildings in this part of Fife". The restoration was certainly a great outcome for this significant Largo building.
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Cellar Braes

11/8/2022

3 Comments

 
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Cellar Brae or Cellar Braes is the promontory to the west of Lower Largo Harbour. The map above, which is dated 1843, is one of the few to clearly name the area. Below is a comparison of that map with a recent aerial view of the site. The general layout and many of the buildings remain the same, although some buildings have been lost. The large building closest to the sea has survived and is one of Largo's oldest. Now known as The Net House, pictured further below, this building began life as a salt girnel (store-house) for the adjacent salt works at Drummochy. Dating back to the 1740s, the girnel was a secure building where salt was drained and stored - an essential component of any salt works. Salt was an extremely valuable commodity at this time and a good quality, robust building was needed for secure storage. So, it is thanks to the original function and importance of the building that it has been able to stand the test of time.

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With the decline of the salt industry locally in the late 18th century, the building's function had to evolve. For a time, it was used as a granary (separate from the granary on the other side of the harbour, now part of the Crusoe Hotel). The 1932 Largo Village Book states that historically "grain was stored for shipping" at Cellar Braes. However, by the late 19th century, and for many decades, the building and surrounding ground was used to store fishing gear and to dry nets (hence the building's present name of The Net House). There are a few images below that feature nets hung out to dry all around the area.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, salmon stake nets ran out to sea in front of the Net House (see image below). Throughout that time, valuation rolls show that the Cellar building and Lundin Salmon Fishings were owned by Lundin Estate. These facilities were tenanted initially by Andrew Greig Anderson, Edinburgh fishmonger, in the late 19th century and then by  Joseph Johnston and Sons Limited of Montrose (a long-established salmon fishing business with interests the length of the east coast) in the early decades of the 20th century.
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By the mid-1930s, Cellar Braes began to change into more of a recreational space. The Largo Parish Community Council rented the area and organised for benches and a shelter to be put in place for the comfort of those enjoying the views across the harbour. The old path which used to run around the seaward side of the Net House was re-routed to the landward side of the building.  The old path route with its unguarded sea wall was not without its risks, as the ​9 April 1935 Leven Advertiser piece below demonstrates. The man who fell over the edge onto the rocks was staying at 'Westhaven' - a house opposite Cellar Brae (see map further below). In the early 1970s, the now semi-derelict net house building was restored and converted into a private dwelling. The sea wall was heightened for safety.
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As well as being the site of private homes, the Cellar Braes of today continues to offer benches, views and space to relax. The former shelter (seen on map and image above) is long gone but a patch of concrete indicates where this once was.  This multi-functional corner of the village has a rich history. Featured in artworks and offering a fine viewing space for events at the harbour, it continues to be a characterful part of the Largo landscape.

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