The former grocer shop at the foot of Hillhead Street was situated in what was once the heart of old Lundin Mill - equidistant from Largo Road to the north and Emsdorf Street to the south. It was constructed in 1880 for weaver-turned-grocer Thomas Forgan. Born in Largo in 1821, Forgan found employment as a hand loom weaver, like many in the village at the time. By 1861 Thomas had became a linen weaving agent - someone through whom weaving work came into the area. He must have been successful in the role, as by the 1871 census, Thomas was recorded as "employing 30 men and 20 women" in the linen trade.

However, times were changing and the old hand loom weaving industry was on the wane. Power looms were increasingly being used in larger towns like Kirkcaldy and Dunfermline. The hand looms that were once found in most village homes (including many on Hillhead Street) were dwindling. The 17 September 1874 Fife Herald speaks of a brisk level of business for the remaining weavers in Lundin Mill, yet at low wages.  It states: "Supplied by webs here as we are through agents, work at the hand-loom trade is rife, but weavers have dwindled down in numbers greatly of late, and the "sough o' the shuttle" is now rarely heard. Wide sheetings are being woven by old hands, but wages are low." 

​On 23 February 1877, the Courier stated that "handloom weaving is at present less active here than it was some time ago, and some kinds of webs are scarce, while wages are miserably low." This shift in the linen trade explains why Thomas Forgan was driven to reinvent himself as a grocer. 
​

The extract from 1878 Slater's Directory above shows that Thomas Forgan was a grocer prior to the construction of the 1880 shop. It also tells us that there were two other grocers in Lundin Mill at the time - Margaret Bremner (who would go on to run Lundin Links Post Office) and John Kennock. Forgan presumably out-grew his original premises and was in a position to build a new purpose-built shop, incorporating living quarters. The short note below from the 29 May 1880 Fife News announced the construction of "a very handsome building" which would "adorn the village". 

​Successor to the business, Thomas Wilkie Blyth, was born in Perthshire in 1865 and was an apprentice grocer by age 16 in Kettle, Fife. In 1889, he married Mary Taylor Lindsay and the 1891 census finds him working as a grocer in Auchtermuchty. Later that year they moved to Lundin Mill to take over Forgan's enterprise. During the Blyths years in Lundin Mill they raised their young family -  daughters, Agnes (born 1892) and Marjory (1896) and a son named Thomas, who sadly died of scarletina in 1893. 

Upper Largo's former bank was designed by the architect Archibald Scott. His plans for the building were first approved by the National Bank of Scotland in 1848, although their Largo branch did not open until some years later. The 1854 map of the village still shows the previous buildings on the site, which were loom shops associated with the once-thriving hand loom weaving industry.

Archibald Scott was born in 1796 in Dunbar, East Lothian. His architect practice was based at Teviot Row in Edinburgh. He became principal architect to the National Bank, and worked on many of their premises between approximately 1848 and 1860, including banks at Hawick, Castle Douglas, Grantown-on-Spey, Whithorn, Bathgate, Lochmaben and Dalkeith. Scott also designed the National Bank building at Elie, which was linked to the Largo branch and to which it bears some resemblance. The Largo and Elie banks are shown side-by-side below. Note their similar stonework and windows and the shared features such as carved stone shields towards to top of their gables and distinctive skew putts at the gable corners.
​

The National Bank of Scotland was founded in 1825. Based in Edinburgh, it had national-level ambitions from the beginning. By 1850 it had 40 branches, growing to eventually to 137 branches. At its height it was second in size only to the Bank of Scotland. In 1959 a merger saw it become National Commercial Bank of Scotland and a decade later it was absorbed into the Royal Bank of Scotland. The bank's archives suggest that the Largo bank building cost £748.10 but that a later payment of £56 was made to Scott in connection with the building in 1860 (likely relating to alterations once operational). 
​

The above notice appeared in the 12 March 1857 Fife Herald announcing that Alexander Robertson had been appointed as Bank Agent at Largo. This appears to mark the official beginning of the bank operation, as it is from that year that regular references to the Largo Bank can be found in the local newspapers. 1857 was also the year that William Robinson Ketchen came to Elie from Edinburgh to take charge of the National Bank there. Ketchen (pictured below from the Fife Illustrated News Almanac of 1902), along with other members of his family, would go on to feature prominently in the history of the Largo branch.

By 1858, William Ketchen's younger brother Thomas had become agent at Largo, effectively acting as assistant to William who had oversight of both branches. Thomas Ketchen remained in the role of agent at Largo for decades and is recorded as living in the bank house in four consecutive census records. In 1861 he was at the bank house along with his parents William and Harriet, as well as a servant. A decade later he was recorded with just his widower father and a servant. In 1881 it was only Thomas and a servant in residence but by the 1891 census Thomas had his retired brother Alexander and the latter's wife, living with him, plus a servant. 
​

The extracts above from the 1866 Westwood's Directory show that there was also a Savings' Bank and Insurance Agency run by Thomas Ketchen. Below is a list of the various National Bank branch agents in the wider local area in 1858. Of course the agent was supported by a small team of bank clerks. In 1881, two teenage sons of Reverend David Malloch (John and David) were bank clerks at Largo. In 1884, Lundin Links born John Bremner came to work at the Largo branch. He was the younger brother of local postmistress Margaret Bremner and he would go on to manage the National Bank of Scotland at St Enoch Square in Glasgow for 25 years. In fact John Malloch went on to marry Ann Bremner (elder sister of John Bremner, his co-worker at the bank).
​

In 1893, Henry Martin Ketchen, son of William Robinson Ketchen became joint-agent at Largo with his father. His uncles, Thomas and Alexander Ketchen, both died in 1894. Henry undertook legal work in the Largo area and was the Secretary of the Largo Granary Company. In 1897, W. R. Ketchen, now retired moved to Largo, where he took a great interest in public life and was elected to Largo County Council. He later moved back to Elie, where he died in 1901.

It was around that time that Ketchen's former apprentice, John More Dall, took over at Largo, remaining there until his retiral in 1930. The National Bank expanded its network of branches in the aftermath of the First World War and in 1921 the directors decided to open a branch at Lundin Links, as a sub-branch of Largo and to protect its business in the locality in the face of competition from the Commercial Bank of Scotland and the British Linen Bank. The sub-branch thrived and made a significant contribution to the profits of the Largo parent bank. During the 1930s there were three banks within the row of businesses on Leven Road, Lundin Links.

In 1930, Guy McConnell succeeded John More Dall, having moved to Largo from the chief office in Glasgow. He had previously worked in branches in Leven and Kirkcaldy. Like earlier bank agents, McConnell had a number of other roles within the community including auditor for the Largo Silver Band (see notice below from 7 Feb 1939 Leven Advertiser) and treasurer of the Largo and Newburn Nursing Association. He remained as Largo agent into the 1940s.

The Second World War had a huge impact on the National Bank of Scotland as a whole, and on the Largo branch in particular. Three members of staff from the Largo branch joined the war effort, one of whom was killed in action. Rival banks ended up closing their branches in Lundin Links, enabling the National Bank to take over the prominent corner site on Leven Road at Crescent Road. At the end of the war this branch was elevated to full branch status (and eventually would subsume the Upper Largo bank).
​

​By 1950, Guy McConnell had left the Largo bank was living in Anstruther.  James M Johnston became agent at Largo but by now there had been a shift in the dynamics between Upper Largo and Lundin Links. The notice above appeared in the Leven Mail each week in May 1958, highlighting the imminent closure of the original branch. Its last day open was 31 May 1958, bringing a century of banking on the Upper Largo site to an end. The branch's business was transferred to the Lundin Links branch on Leven Road, pictured below. The bank building in Upper Largo became a private residence.
​

The previous post introduced Andrew S. Cunningham, journalist and writer. His publication covering the Parishes of Largo and Newburn, is entitled Upper Largo, Lower Largo, Lundin Links and Newburn. As the preface below explains, the inspiration for the book was the Robinson Crusoe statue on Lower Largo's Main Street. In Andrew's own words:

"Gazing one day on the statue of Robinson Crusoe in the main street of Lower Largo, a thought struck me that I might write the "True Story" of Defoe's hero. When I had completed my short story, a suggestion came to the effect that I might compile a book bearing on the whole Parish of Largo, and the Parish adjoining, Newburn. I have acted on the suggestion."

Also in the preface (written in March 1907 in Leven) Andrew thanks a number of people. Firstly, Sir John and Lady Gilmour, the proprietors of the Lundin Estate, to whom the book is dedicated. They provided information and illustrations, including photographs taken by Lady Gilmour and the artwork below of Largo Pier by Dr Charles Blatherwick (which depicts the scene without the railway viaduct). Thanks are also made to local photographers John Patrick, Andrew Hogg and Peter Cowie (the latter two also being local chemists). Robert Paxton is also acknowledged for his contribution of photographs. Finally, the Misses Sawyer of Belmont Hotel are mentioned (more to follow on them in a future blog).
​

The contents of the book and many and varied, covering local people, places and practices. For the time, it is richly illustrated. One of the most intriguing photographs is the one below of Largo Harbour from Drummochy. The large vessel is a two masted, square rigged brigantine. The image probably dates to the winter of 1901-02, after the alterations to the Crusoe Hotel during which the dormer windows were added, but before the hotel was given a fresh coat of paint. 

The book also features many interesting adverts for local businesses across the Largo villages and Leven, such as those above. Of course, an advert for Purves and Cunningham and the Leven Advertiser and Wemyss Gazette also featured. This advert, below, highlights that the newspaper publishes a list of summer visitors during the months of June, July and August. Mention is also made of the fact that the paper often includes historical notes, reflecting Andrew's personal interest.
​

I wonder how many of the businesses and societies across Lower Largo, Lundin Links and Upper Largo made use of Purves and Cunningham's 'Jobbing Department' for their printing needs (letter heads, posters, tickets, etc) or which products they stocked for their customers (cards, invitations, boxes). No doubt shop keepers, hoteliers, golf clubs, society officials, etc. all knew Andrew Cunningham back in the early 1900s.

When the postmark above was stamped on a letter in 1875, there had already been a post office at Kirkton of Largo for more than half a century. Known simply as 'Largo Post Office' and opened in 1824, it was the only one in the parish. However, at the time that this envelope was stamped there was an active campaign to establish a second post office, at Lower Largo. The folks of the lower village had long been dissatisfied with the postal arrangements, as the piece below from the 16 December 1869 Fifeshire Journal tells us.

The 16 February 1884 Fife News item above announced that Alexander Welsh would run the Post Office Savings' Bank and Money Order Office for Lower Largo. Fifty-six-year-old Welsh was a local draper and from 1884 combined his general draper business with running the post office in the new premises, which was rented from Benjamin Philp. The article below from 13 March 1884 Fifeshire Journal reports the opening of the post office on 10 March, highlighting that there were a few initial issues. A lack of evening deliveries and separate mailbags were among the complaints. There was also a feeling among the folks of Upper Largo and Newburn that post master John Marr at Kirkton had been unjustly treated by the opening of a second post office in the parish.
​

Arrangements must have settled down eventually and Alexander Welsh remained as post master (and draper) until his death in August 1892. Benjamin Philp died later the same month. Lower Largo post office continued under John Welsh, son of Alexander. John retired in 1934, passing on the role of post master to his son Laurence Welsh, who continued for many years thereafter as a third generation post master. The post offices of Upper Largo and Lower Largo were later joined by post offices at New Gilston in 1894 and Lundin Links in 1896. Now none of the four remain.

Last week was exactly one decade since this blog started and the anniversary post looked back at ten blog posts on local people. This week we revisit ten images which offer a real window into the past. The first image below is a circa 1900 photograph by William Easton of St Monans which features Bridge House on Largo Road and the back of the former Keilside Bakery - read more here.
​

Image number two is Crescent Road, Lundin Links, in the late 1890s before the houses on the south side of the street were built. The ground was used at that time for golf. However, this was gentle golf of the type considered more suitable for women and children. The players look very smart in their fine clothes and hats. This image was captured by photographer James Gay of Elie.

Next is a superbly detailed view of Turbayne's shop at the corner of Hillhead Street and Emsdorf Crescent. Read this blog post on the history of the shop and some of the products that were sold there.
​

​The fourth image features a group of people rather than a scene. These are the five founders of Largo Field Naturalists' Society - an influential and very active group, instituted in 1863. This photograph, taken by St Andrews photographer Thomas Rodger, dates to circa 1870 and is now part of the St Andrews University Library special collection.

Do you recognise the house in Lower Largo below? Then known as number 1 Seaview, this house played host to summer visitors in the early 1900s but looks quite different today. See this house in context here.  

Another close up view of a bygone shop - Andrew Somerville's grocer shop on Leven Road, Lundin Links. Purpose built in 1900 for Andrew's father John Somerville the Leven grocer, this shop still retains many original features today.

The view below looking towards Largo Bay provides a different perspective on Upper Largo - from the Birsays. The cemetery is prominent in the centre but look beyond and buildings such as Wood's Hospital can also be made out.

The circa 1910 photograph shows a typical delivery to Jimmie Brown's Fruit Shop at the west end of Emsdorf Street. To find out who all the people are in this shot - read here.

One of the oldest photos around of Largo is the one below by John Patrick, dated 1872. By then Patrick had moved from Leven to Kirkcaldy but had yet to move on to Edinburgh. Perhaps if he had remained in Leven, we would be able to enjoy more images of Largo from this era.
​

​The final of the ten images is from more recent times and shows multiple generations "enjoying" Largo Pier . While their faces don't exactly reflect that summer holiday vibe, the image is full of character.

Over the past ten years there has been no shortage of vintage images of Largo to discover and share. Undoubtedly, there are many more out there to be discovered. If you have a local view from the past that you think others would enjoy seeing, please get in touch.
​

Above is a partial photograph of the frontage of Mackie's Glasgow chemist shop (image from Glasgow City Council's Virtual Mitchell). Note the elaborate window display of branded and mass produced goods, which increasingly became a part of the offering of chemist shops during his years in the business. However, Mackie would also have been using old-fashioned dispensary tools and pill-making machines - such as those shown below.

James Bowie, Mackie's predecessor, had been local chemist throughout the 1920s and early 1930s.  On 25 May 1935, the Fife Free Press reported that "Mr Bowie, who has carried on a chemist's business at Upper Largo for a great many years, is leaving the district.  The premises will be opened soon under new management."  Prior to James Bowie there had been a chemist named Peter Cowie in Upper Largo, who had died in 1917 at the age of 46. Mackie sold more besides typical chemist products - the advert below highlights that cigarettes and tobacco were available, along books and stationery.

After six years in Upper Largo, George Mackie died, aged 77, in 1941. Outside of his profession, he had been "an authority on music, having one of the finest collections of high-class musical recordings in the District", according to the Kirkintilloch Herald, which reported his death on 14 May 1941.  It also noted that Mackie made musical instruments as a hobby and "for some time conducted the Players' Club Orchestra with great success".  He was also an elder at Largo St David's Church. The Upper Largo Pharmacy continued to operate under his name for many years and it was only in 1975 that the business was wound up. Betty Mackie, who continued the chemist shop, died in 1983. The shop at 14 Main Street, Upper Largo, became a hairdresser, see below, before being converted into a dwelling.

I was delighted to receive an image recently, from a kind visitor to the blog, showing a paper bag from Turbayne's shop. Described as a "Grocer, Fruiterer and Confectioner", the shop stood at the corner of Hillhead Street and Emsdorf Crescent and was run by James Terras Turbayne. He was proprietor from 1920 into the 1950s and you can read more about his time running the shop here. Note that the small bag features a very fancy looking box of chocolates with the words "High-Class Confections" above it. There is also a footnote: "home and foreign fruits in their season".

Also notice the phone number for the shop at the time was a single digit. The very first phone lines in Lundin Links were as follows:
​

This small bag survived because it contained a half-sovereign given to its owner in infancy (circa 1950). Her grandparents lived in Lundin Links. ​This is not the first image of a paper bag from a long-gone local shop that has appeared on this blog. Back in 2017, another reader shared an image of a bag from David Watson the baker - click here to read more about that. If you have a paper bag from an old local shop or a similar artefact, please do get in touch. Sometimes a seemingly insignificant little item can bring back memories, provide a glimpse of the past and help to preserve a little bit of local history. 
​

Above is a 1960s view taken from Largo Pier, across the Keil towards Drummochy. Some of the detail is shown below on what was clearly a warm summer day. Note the old shelter at Cellar Braes, the people sitting on the bench next to it and the towels left on the lower part of the sea wall. Two beautiful boats are central to the image. The boat to the rear is W. Ewan Bryden's 'Greenmantle'. This photogenic vessel was a Largo fixture for a couple of decades. If you know the name of the second boat, please comment.
​

The second image below was taken on the same day but orientated towards the viaduct and road bridge. In this photograph the caravan park can be glimpsed through the arch of the viaduct along with the gasworks. The three houses standing prominently behind the Fish Restaurant are, from left to right, Bellvue, Gullane View and Drummochy House (see map further below). 

Interestingly, the Scottish colourist, George Leslie Hunter, produced an artwork featuring Bellvue and Coventry Cottage (see below). Captured from an interesting vantage point down at water level in the harbour, this 1920s watercolour looks up at the houses while fishing nets dry on poles to the right. The tall yellow object to the left could well be a hayrick.
​

Above is a 'then and now' comparison of the corner of Hillhead Street and Emsdorf Crescent in Lundin Links. The top image features the former shop, as it was in the 1940s, during the tenure of James Terris Turbayne. He was proprietor from 1920 into the 1950s. The ground floor was in fact two shops - the grocer to the right, and the fruit and confectionery shop to the left, each with its own entrance. Previously, the corner shop had been David Lindsay's grocery and the smaller shop had been the chemist belonging to Peter Cowie.

The black and white postcard image is entitled "St Helen, Lundin Links", as this is the name of the home above the shops. The upstairs dwelling was built above a pre-existing single-storey shop during David Lindsay's time. Helen was the name of the mother of David's wife, Isabella Horne. The Lindsays also had a daughter named Helen (known as Nelly) who died in 1901 aged 12. A further dwelling behind the shop was named Nellfield.

The building set back to the right of the shop was likely the original stable and cart shed connected with the business, at a time when grocery deliveries were fulfilled by horse and cart. By the Turbaynes time, the shift to motor vans had taken place and one can be seen in the 1940s image. The advert for Turbayne's below states "orders called for and delivered daily by motor van".

Round to the right of the front door to the grocer shop is an external sign for the Woodburn Laundry (for which Turbayne was an agent). Above is an advert for the same from 30 March 1935 St Andrews Courier. This facility was in St Andrews and boasted "open-air drying - right on sea front". Below is a photo of the actual laundry, adjacent to the Lifeboat Station at St Andrews (image courtesy of University of St Andrews, Special Collections). 

Close inspection of the Turbayne postcard photograph shows that there is a person tucked in at the left side of the motor van and that a selection of wines and spirits are on display in the shop window facing the van. The crates and boxes stacked up outside the shop may have just been taken out of the van, ready to restock the shop shelves. The person doing the unloading appears to be hiding from the photographer.
​

The two adverts below illustrate the range of wines and spirits that were stocked by James Turbayne once he had secured his license in Lundin Links. He also stocked soft drinks such as the aerated waters produced by Leven based Christopher Adamson.

George Swan Rodger was born on 20 May 1837 in Coaltown of Balgonie to James Rodger, coal agent, and Christian Swan. As an infant he moved with his family to Tyrie Bleachfield, Kirkcaldy and there he received his education from local teacher, author and poet, Peter Purves. He later served an apprenticeship to the drapery trade under Mr Gilchrist of Kirkcaldy. After gaining further experience in the trade at Falkirk, Edinburgh and Glasgow, George became a buyer at an important Glasgow clothing business. It was in Glasgow on 21 December 1866 that George married Jeanie Wylie Leys. He had been a boarder with Jeanie's family, who hailed from the same area of Fife that George himself was from. By the time of the 1871 census, the couple had three children: James, William and Christina. Still living in Glasgow, along with Jeanie's mother, George was now a master draper.

It was in 1872, the George Rodger came to Largo, taking over the premises of the late James White. The following year the family grew with the birth of second daughter, Jeanie. Sadly, in 1878, eldest daughter Christina died aged six. The above advert dates to 22 February 1879 and featured in the Fife News. Below are adverts from the same year. One announces 'summer goods', while the other from later in the year advertised 'winter goods'. In both cases George had just returned from 'the markets'. Glasgow trimmed bonnets and hats are mentioned in both adverts. Hats had become elaborately trimmed in the 1870s. Sometimes with ribbons at the back, which hung over the chignon hair style. In the late 1870s bonnets featured an increasing use of flowers and birds in their trimming, before transitioning to feathers in the 1880s. Fabrics used in summer varied from those used in winter. Plush, for example, was used for winter hats, as well as  for dresses, muffs and bags.
​

As well as regular advertisements for summer and winter goods, it became a tradition for Rodger's to hold an annual clearing sale and these were always advertised in the local press. In 1881, the family had another child, George, and Jeanie's widowed mother was still living with them in Upper Largo. Around 1885, a young Alexander Kirk Melville entered the employment of Rodger, staying for four years and laying the foundations for his own long journey into the clothing business.

The original shop continued until 1887, when George Rodger decided that new premises were required. In fact, his shop was described as "too small and also damp". So he decided to have it taken down and a new shop (with attached dwelling) built upon the site.  During the works, the business moved into temporary premises next to Mr Thomson's chemist business. The various Fife News notices below tell the story of the upheaval and necessary stock sales that took place during that year. A sale was held prior to the move and another later the same year, due to the lack of room in the temporary premises. 
​

The Rodgers seem to have been installed at the rebuilt shop and dwelling in time for the annual sale in February 1888. Their new building is now 12 Main Street (pictured above).  In more recent times, this building has housed George Mackie's chemist and The Salon hairdresser. Like so many former shops in the village, it has long since been converted into a residential dwelling.

At the time of the 1901 census, the two eldest Rodger children had moved away. George and Jeanie's daughter and youngest son (Jeanie and George) had joined the family business as a milliner and draper's assistant respectively. The family business flourished in its purpose-built premises and by 1906, the shop held its thirty-third annual clearing sale (see 1 February Leven Advertiser advert below).
​

Over the decades, fashions of course changed dramatically and G.S. Rodger moved with the times and catered for local needs. The 1910 advert below highlights the 'golf hose' on offer (10 August 1910 Leven Advertiser).
​

Knitting machines were installed in the back shop at some point - the above notice requests a girl to join the team to operate one of them. Below, an advertisement from 15 Feb 1911 Leven Advertiser mentions a range of items reduced in the clearance sale: from floorcloth to overcoats and wincey shirting. 
​

An elder of the United Free church for many years, under Rev, R. Lundin Brown and William Bruce, George Rodger eventually retired and his son (also named George Swan Rodger) continued the business. George senior died on 12 April 1925 aged 87 at his home on Upper Largo's Main Street. He was survived by his widow, three sons and daughter. His eldest son was by then headmaster at Burntisland Higher Grade School and his second son employed by a woollen manufacturer in Canada. George was buried in Upper Largo cemetery. His widow Jeanie died in 1930 aged 91. Young Jeanie died in 1943 aged 70. George junior lived until 1956, latterly living at Ravenswood in Lundin Links.
​