The previous post looked at the two Durham Schools in Lower Largo and how the old schoolhouse at the Temple car park was superseded by the later school that would become the Durham Hall. The 1836 single room school was left as a ruin for decades until - exactly a century after it was first erected - the remains were cleared away. In the run up to that, it was becoming increasingly clear that the Feuars' Green or Temple Green was needing a bit of attention. Having been neglected for a while, things came to a head after winter storms took their toll on the seafront here.

In 1935 the Leven Advertiser of 23 April reported, under the headline "Havoc on Foreshore", that "time and tide have played havoc with the seats which were erected a few years ago on the foreshore at the Temple, Largo, by the Improvements Committee. During the summer season these seats were a popular rendezvous with the older generation."

This prompted efforts to renew and improve the 'vacant' ground. Discussion ensued around the possibilities for enhancing the space for locals and visitors alike. Later that year the suggestion of creating a children's playground or a putting green on the green created much animation among the locals. As the piece in the 19 Oct 1935 Fife Free Press below indicates, folk were keen to point out that nothing could be done without the unanimous agreement of the green feuars (who had collectively been given the ground many years earlier for use as a bleaching green - see image at the top of the post where white cloth can be seen drying in the corner of the green). Times had changed and no longer was the green needed for bleaching. Its main use had become a convenient 'lying up' place for fishing and pleasure boats off season. A committee was duly established to explore the possibilities for the green. 
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The above update appeared in the 13 June 1936 Fife Free Press, showing that improvement plans were taking shape. By the September, the plans were being executed. The Leven Advertiser (29 Sept) updates on the works to level the ground, remove the ruins of the old Durham School, erect fencing and build a brick wall along the south edge of the green. The old stones from the school building were in fact used to build up the foreshore in order to protect against further storm damage.

Although the green was tidied up, neither the putting green nor children's playpark ideas came to pass. The space is rarely referenced in the later newspaper archives. A rare example from 1937 tells that a Sunday School picnic party from Leslie based themselves at Temple Green. The storage of boats there continued and of course with the rise of the motor car, it became primarily a car park. The brick wall was at some point replaced by the neat stone wall that bounds the car park to the south today. The foreshore and road (created in 1903) to the south remain intact, perhaps in part due to the old stones from the original Durham School.

The image above, which appears in the book 'Seatoun of Largo' by Ivy Jardine, shows what is now the Temple Car Park. The Cardy Net Factory can be seen behind the many boats pulled up from the beach (including what might be the Semiquaver - the largest boat, resting adjacent to the factory). To the right and slightly elevated is a roofless old building - a former school. The 1853 Ordnance Survey name book helpfully describes the school as follows:

"Durham's School: A school in the hamlet of Temple, erected by subscription in 1836. The teacher is a female who receives a salary from Mrs Durham of £20 per ann. also school fees. It is attended by about 60 scholars."

This provides a definite date of 1836 for the origin of the school and tells us that this was a 'subscription school' i.e. the school was organised and governed locally and parents paid a fee for children's attendance. Like many village schools of the time, it was single roomed and had only one teacher (in 1853 this was Miss Caroline Spence). Also mentioned in the 1853 name book are the other local schools, namely: the Emsdorf School (built 1821 and also attended by around 60 pupils) and the old Kirkton School (which was attended by around 150 scholars at the time).

The newspaper item below from the 18 May 1837 Fifeshire Journal confirms the 1836 origin and tells us that General Durham was actively involved in the school's establishment. This is General James Durham of Largo House (1754-1840). It also mentions that the teacher in 1837 was a Mr Wilson. Interestingly, the piece notes that the establishment of the school had been resisted by many.
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General Durham died at Largo House in 1840 and was succeeded in his Largo estate by his nephew Thomas Calderwood Durham of Polton. The latter died only two years later, also at Largo House, and was succeeded by his brother Admiral Sir Philip Charles Henderson Calderwood Durham. Philip died in 1845 in Naples and his estates at Largo and Polton passed to his niece Lilias Dundas Calderwood Durham (the daughter of Thomas Calderwood Durham). She was the widow of Robert Dundas of Arniston, who had died in 1838.

Unsurprisingly, as decades passed, the small subscription school became inadequate for the needs of Lower Largo. A site on Donaldson's Wynd was selected for a bigger, more substantially-built school (see map below from 1866 which features both schools). The 1861 census for Lower Largo lists two school buildings: a 'subscription school (empty)' and a 'female school'. A newspaper piece (see further below) from 15 June 1910 Leven Advertiser states that "the Durham school was founded in 1859 by Mrs L. D. C. Durham". Mrs Durham spent time at Largo House between 1845 and 1868 and took a great interest in the local community and especially in education. In her later years, she sold the Largo estate to William Johnson of Lathrisk in 1868 and settled at Polton. She died in 1883 in Lanzo, Italy.
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The 1862 Westwood's Directory notes within the Largo section that "a new female industrial school" had been built in Lower Largo, with a Miss Robertson in charge. This new school also became known as the Durham School. Mrs Dundas Durham (1799-1883) is pictured below (courtesy of National Portrait Gallery, London). The marble memorial tablet to her within Largo Church is also shown below. 
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The Durham school remained in active use long after the era of the Durham family in Largo. While control of the schools at Kirkton and Lundin Mill transferred to Largo School Board in 1872 with the passing of the Education Act, the Durham school stayed under the control of the Kirk for many years thereafter. The 'Largo Village Book' of 1932, in its section about schools, after mentioning the schools in Kirkton and Lundin Mill, says:

"There is yet another school in Donaldson's Wynd. This is just above Lower Largo, known as the Durham School. This did not pass out of the Church's hands nearly as soon but remained under the management of the Kirk Session till after 1892. A lot of children used to go to the Durham School. There was always a school-mistress there and latterly the younger children went. A few years ago, however, it was closed as a regular school and has now been fitted up for classes, and here the Continuation Classes are held."

A footnote further explains that it was 1895 that the Kirk Session ceased to manage this school. The reason that it did so was due to the need for extensive repairs and improvements for which the Kirk Session had no funds. The Largo Village Book also tells us that the school evolved from a regular school into a continuation school earlier in the twentieth century. The newspaper archives tell us that the building was altered in 1911 to improve heating, lighting and use of space, plus fit it up for cookery and laundry lessons. The advert above from the 28 September 1911 Leven Advertiser lists some of the continuation classes available following the building's refurbishment.

​Below is a photograph of the Durham school (now Durham Hall) in the mid-1970s. Now 160 years old, the building is still serving the local community well.
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The road annotated on the aerial photo above is Durham Wynd, which runs down from the A915 close to Largo House to Lower Largo's Main Street near the Orry. Some folks will still know this road as 'Donaldson's Wynd', as that was how this road was referred to for around a century. Until recent decades there were almost no buildings on either side of this road - it was bounded by fields on both sides. As such, references to it in historical records are scarce. Below is a rare early reference to Donaldson's Wynd from the 4 April 1878 Fife Herald.

Occasional references to Donaldson's Wynd continue to appear in the newspaper archives from then up until the late 1950s. The alternative name of 'Durham Wynd' eventually began to appear in parallel, especially from around 1929, when some houses were build adjacent to it (see example further below from the 16 March 1929 St Andrews Citizen).

​In fact, as far back as 1892 the dual name of the road was acknowledged - see below from the 17 September 1892 St Andrews Citizen. This piece calls the road "Donaldson's or the Durham School Wynd". Of course, it makes sense for the road to be referred to as 'Durham School Wynd' as the new Durham School was built on it circa 1860 (more on that in a future post). But where might the original name of 'Donaldson' have come from?

A likely origin of the name Donaldson's Wynd would be that it was named after David Donaldson (or one of his forebears). Like many of the inhabitants of early 19th century Lower Largo he was a hand loom weaver but crucially he was one of the few inhabitants to actually live on this road. The only houses located on it then were those found at the foot of the wynd close to the Orry. David Donaldson lived in one of these. David also held an official position of importance within the community. His name appeared on advertisements for teaching staff at the original Durham School (located at the Temple car park). Applicants were to apply directly to him, suggesting that he was perhaps clerk to the school board or equivalent body. Notices below from 14 March 1839 Fifeshire Journal and 27 May 1841 Fife Herald respectively provide examples.
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David Donaldson died in 1852 aged 78. Perhaps when the new Durham School was erected on the wynd a few years later, close to his former home, a name was needed and his was chosen. Whether the wynd already bore his name before his death or whether it was named in his memory is unknown but the name certainly stuck long after his passing. If you know any more about the origins of the name 'Donaldson's Wynd' please comment.

The wynd is quite steep at its lower end and many of the mentions of it in the newspaper archives relate to accidents that have taken place there. A few examples of these are given below...

Anyway, over the last century, the road has become increasingly built up on both sides as the aerial view at the start of this post shows. Successive housing developments over several decades have seen it transform into something that would be quite unrecognisable to David Donaldson. In spite of the change to 'Durham Wynd' over time, the Donaldson name lives on both in the memories of many and in the name of the small housing development at the top end of the road - Donaldson's Court.

Image credit: Ron Cosens    (www.cartedevisite.co.uk)

A previous post has covered in some detail the life of Reverend David Malloch, the long-serving minister of Largo St David's Church. The only photograph of this man that I had ever seen was the one of him as an older, white-haired, experienced clergyman. However, the above image of a younger Rev. Malloch has emerged from an unlikely source. Showing David as an eager-looking, new minister, this 'carte de visite' or CDV recently turned up from Canada. The image was captured by photographer John Patrick - the rear of the CDV bears his name and original Leven address of 71 High Street.

Below is a comparison of the young and the older David Malloch photographs. His facial features are unchanged and he clearly retained his thick wavy hair into older age. The St Andrews Citizen on 4 July 1896 commented that he was "conspicuous throughout the parish by his locks and shaven face, which seemed to savour more of art than the pulpit". 

​The Largo community would have seen this man evolve from the youthful, dark-haired incomer in 1860 into the mature and seasoned minister, over the 36 years that he "went out and in among them, speaking words in season to the weary, and comforting the afflicted". He would have officiated at many a wedding and funeral, delivered hundreds of sermons and given both sympathy and encouragement to people of all ages. The memorial to him within St David's Church, placed in 1900, reflects the esteem in which he was held by his congregation and beyond.

The previous post looked at the summer visitors to Largo in 1875. The list back then was fairly long but nothing in comparison to later lists such as the 1910 example below. Of course between 1875 and 1910 many changes had taken place in the villages. The feuing of Lundin Links had taken off around the turn of the century. The parade of shops had become established on Leven Road. Many of these shopkeepers made a point of advertising in the local paper right alongside the list of visitors - including Miss Bremner at the Post Office, Douglas the Butcher and Lindsay's Grocer. David Lindsay also had a boot and shoe warehouse that catered for the holiday makers with footwear "for seaside, golf, bowling, tennis".

In 1875, Lundin Mill had 13 houses listed as occupied by summer visitors. By 1910 there were 95 including many multi-occupancy boarding houses and the Lundin Links Hotel. A number of leisure facilities had been laid on by 1910, including tennis courts, a bowling green and the Montrave Hall. The Lundin Golf Club was long-established but flourished with the increase in summer visitors. Many regular visitors were also members of the club. Lundin Ladies Golf Club moved to its current location around this time and no doubt was well-used by many of the holidaymakers too. 

Meanwhile in Lower Largo, the list had also lengthened by 1910 (though less dramatically) from 33 to 46. Notable developments there since 1875 included Rock View, Beach House and Edina View on the sea-side of Main Street, as well as new properties on the seafront by the Orry such as Sunnyside.  Shops here also took the opportunity to advertise, including John Nicoll the grocer and Armit the boot maker (offering sand shoes and canvas shoes).

​Edinburgh and Glasgow were definitely the main sources of visitors. All houses listed now had names - none were described as 'Mrs So-and-so's', as had been the case in 1875. With so many return visitors each year, one benefit of these lists was that families could see who else was staying and reunite with acquaintances made in previous years.

For many decades a list of the summer visitors to Largo was published in the local papers. The above is an early example from the 20 August 1875 East of Fife Record. Compared with later years, this list was relatively short. Later examples were more extensive - once the boarding houses and 'marine villas' of Lundin Links had built around the turn of the century and several developments had taken place in Lower Largo. Nevertheless, even in the 1870s, both Lower Largo and Lundin Mill were known as sea-bathing destinations. The extract below from the 1877 Worrall's Directory speaks of the "considerable number of handsome villas at Lundin Links which are let out to families in the bathing season." These were the early developments at Crescent Road and close to the station.

The list above indicates that the majority of visitors came from Edinburgh - a trend started by the steamers that ran in the early 19th century and accelerated by the arrival of the railway in 1857. However, during this era it was also common for visitors to come to Largo from the inland Fife towns and villages such as Cupar and Auchtermuchty, seeking some sea air and bathing. Some properties are named (such as Viewforth, Marine Villa, Craigie Bank, Goodsir House, Sea View, Drum Lodge and Murree Lodge) while others are recorded by the proprietor's name (e.g. Mrs Davie, Mrs Butters and Mrs Clunie). 

One of the visitors mentioned in the 1875 visitors' list is T.C. Glover at Bombay Cottage. Also known as Bombay Lodge, this property was at the Temple (likely number 23) and was owned by well-known civil engineer Thomas Craigie Glover (pictured inset). He owned the property during the 1860s and 1870s and named it after the part of India where he had lived for a long spell and where some of his children had been born. 

His obituary below from the 16 July 1904 St Andrews Citizen tells his interesting life story - from his birth in Leith, to his training as a civil engineer, spell in America and three decades in India where he directed many large engineering projects, including railways, Bombay docks and a huge dam at Tansa. He frequently returned to Scotland for holidays and owned a fine yacht.

He eventually retired to Earlsferry, where he purchased Earlsferry House and became Provost of the place. There is a Glovers Wynd named after him in the village. You can read more about his time there here:

http://www.eliehistory.com/explore/earlsferry-house-part1/
http://www.eliehistory.com/explore/earlsferry-house-part-2/
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He sold Bombay Lodge in 1877, with its five bedrooms, coach house and stable, croquet lawn and vegetable garden (see 1 June East of Fife Record advert at foot of this post). 

The postcard scene above, from the Valentine's series, has much going on within it worth comment. It can be dated to between 1911 (when the flat roof was created on the seaward end of the Crusoe Hotel) and 1914 (when the postcard was sent). A huge Union Jack flag can be seen flying from the hotel's flag pole. The tide is fairly high and there are fifteen boats within shot - a mixture of working vessels and pleasure craft. A couple of rowing boats appear to be setting off via the channel between the pier and the Lundies (the rocks to the right of the pier). 

Below we can see a woman in what is probably the uniform of a domestic servant or nanny - black dress, white apron and white lacy cap. Whether she is in charge of the boy to the right is unclear. The road surface is rough and uneven, and the obstacles in the shape of mooring posts, ropes and baskets are many. Cart wheel tracks can just about be made out rounding the corner past the Railway Inn onto Main Street.
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​The other area of zoomed in detail below shows the structure and surface of the pier in good detail. There are several mooring posts and some evidence of fishing gear. People including a boy plus a dog are enjoying watching the hubbub of the harbour. Also notable are the long wooden poles and laddered 'A' frame structures piled up against the harbour W.C. wall. Perhaps someone can comment on how these would have been used?  

All in all, I love this atmospheric scene and only wish I could step back in time and walk through it - taking in the sights, sounds and smells!

The photograph above, from the book 'Seatoun of Largo' by Ivy Jardine, features the yacht 'Semiquaver' which was designed, built and sailed by brothers William and Robert Gillies. This scene of a crowd gathering, to see the impressive vessel launch, was captured around the turn of the century. There were in fact two 'Semiquavers', plus a predecessor named the 'Quaver'. The unusual names reflect the family's great love of music. In fact, they made violins as well as boats. According to 'Seatoun of Largo', the 'Quaver' had a few bars of the song 'Rocked in the Cradle of the Deep' on her starboard side and the opening bars of 'The Boatie Rows' on the port side.

Among the early mentions of the Quaver in the local newspapers, is a piece in the 7 July 1877 Fifeshire Advertiser, noting that she participated in the Kirkcaldy Annual Regatta. The six ton yacht competed in the Kirkcaldy Regatta again in 1878 before that particular event lapsed for a number of years. When revived in 1889, the Quaver returned and won first prize in its category. What ultimately became of the Quaver is unclear but in 1895 a new yacht was built by the Gillies brothers in their workshop at the east end of Main Street close to Cardy House (pictured below when reincarnated as the Gillies Art Studio in the 1980s). Named 'Semiquaver', this yacht is mentioned later in 1895 as winning the Star Cup at Aberdour Regatta.

Above is an interesting group photo taken outside the wall of Cardy House grounds circa 1900. This image is now part of the University of St Andrews Photographic Collection. There are four men with a boat behind them. No names are provided but I suspect one or more of them to be a member of the Gillies family. The bare-footed man second from right looks like he may have just been out in the boat or perhaps is about to go out in it.

It might be that the two men without jackets are William and Robert Gillies, joiners and yacht builders. Their brother was David Gillies - who constructed and owned Cardy House and the Net Factory. William and Robert had a boat named the ​Semiquaver that caused a stir whenever it was launched each summer at Largo.  More on that to come.  In the meantime if you have any information - or theories - about the men in the photo above, please comment. 

It was clearly a 'scorcher' on the day that this postcard image was captured. In fact, even the sender of the postcard remarked (upon their August 1955 stay) that they were "having a lovely time here - weather perfect." Simple pleasures were the order of the day. Bringing out a deck chair to have a sit in the sun, enjoying the sea view, paddling in the sea or burying yourself in sand. More in the next post on the origins of these terraced houses.